UKC

What would be a good first mountain alpine route? Was planning on going in the spring (is this a good time?) and would like to climb mount blanc and the matterhorn in the future. I'd prefer to keep building-up experience so that I can climb without guides.

What would be the likely cost of a 5 day stint?

Ta
Asty

In reply to astroman: the shroud, Grand Jorasses :oP

In reply to nature boy:
Have you done the Gran Jorasses? Is there any iceclimbing involved?

In reply to astroman:

There are rock alpine routes, snow plods and mixed routes.

Lots of the Snow plods are easy (usualy graded PD), but I wouldn't go alone if I were you for the first time. Either go guided or with somebody who has done some before.

You will have to learn about crevas rescue and glassier travel but it's straight forward.

As for a first route, depends what you want. The guid books are generaly good look for PD or even PD- routes which are generaly either easy snow plods of bit of a rocky scramble. Note however that you might get a bit more exposure than you would do in the UK.

I'd recommend going to Arolla in Switzerland for the first time. Nice area with enough to do and not anything too serious.

In reply to astroman:

Hang on. I can't work out which one of you is the troll.

In reply to nature boy:
"If you have already climbed The Dru, or had epics on the massive walls of Grand Jorasses – read no further"

Ha! I take it you've never done anything higher than a boulder problem right? Though I gotta admit you do look very good at bouldering.

In reply to mat s:
Thanks mat. I'll investigate this.

Nature Boy has me interested in the Grand Jorasses now (which I'm sure he has no knowledge of). How much experience would this kind of undertaking need?

In reply to TobyA:

Most certainly nature boy as nobody would recommend the Gran Jorassess as a first route to somebody who has only done Scottish winter I. Would be rather interesting. What is it TD3?

In reply to astroman:
More than you've got if you need to ask!

Spring not the best time really. Go in summer, suffer the crowds. (or winter and climb ice)

What do you want to do, rock, mixed, snow plod?

If you've done Astroman then I suggest going on some of the fantastic rock routes, like on the grand capucin. plenty of stuff to acclimatise on, s face of the midi etc.

Some of the routes are better than astroman.

stay off the GJ for a while.

Jack

In reply to astroman: have you read Anderl Heckmair book about the Grand Jorasses or chris bonnington biography which details the account of the walker spur?

In reply to crippin:
I'd like to start building up experience to be able to climb something like mt blanc and the matterhorn. But if I'm there and theres some good multi-pitch rock climbing to be done then that too!

In reply to nature boy:
No. Would you recommend them?

In reply to astroman: yes absolutely, and anything by lionel terray, oh and alpine climbing by john barry is the best book about alpine skills IMHO

In reply to astroman:
To climd said peaks you will need to be fit. Not much else to it really.

Hundreds of people summit Mt Blanc every week (with guides) that have never worn crampons before. Go to Chamonix, do stuff like Petit Verte, then get up in the middle of the night and join the queue on Mt Blanc.

If you want to climb stuff like that then summer is your only option (unless you want to ski them).

Get the two British guide books to Mt Blanc area and you'll have loads to do.

(read a book then spend a day on crevasse rescue and snow stuff, then you'll be fine)

Good luck

Jack

(the important thing is to acclimatise properly and be fit, fit, fit)

In reply to astroman:
Thanks guys. Got plenty to look at. Could you recommend an alpine place for good long rock routes?

In reply to astroman: Chamonix is good for that as well, try the S ridge of the chapelle la gliere in the aiguilles rouges for starters, it is a real classic and everyone should do it, whatever grade you climb

In reply to astroman: the South Ridge of the Moine :oP

In reply to MattG:
Is there a guide book I can buy for that? Will I just be able to have a go with UK rock climbing skills (only sport climbed in Europe)?

In reply to astroman: Yes, uk rock skills will be fine, do some long multipitchers to practice. It is in the alpine club mont blanc massif guide, volume 2. You can also get a topo in the office de haute montagne in chamonix, saves carrying the book with you.

The aiguilles rouges routes don't generally involve glaciers, although there may be some snow to cross, especially early in the season (early July time).

The Index in the aigs rouges is a decent 4 pitch easy route but gets very crowded. Also the clocher-clochetons traverse seems worth a look but we only managed the clocher before the weather crapped out bigstyle

In reply to astroman:

Just to clear things up, you do realise natureboy's taking the piss don't you!!

Chamonix does have some good rock routes (but in the Michel Piola guidebook, which has good topos, not in the Alpine club guides). It also has some of the best mountain routes around but if you want long rock routes alone go to Ailefroide or Switzerland.

In reply to Shneb:

However, training for big mountains is best done on more Alpine routes, in which case a good season in Chamonix is ideal. Try routes like the Petite Aiguille Verte and the Aiguille du Tour. If you fancy getting a good look at Mont Blanc and need to acclimatise a bit then go for Mont Blanc du Tacul from the Aiguille du Midi cable car station. These are all pretty straightforward if in condition. If you're fit and acclimatised, then you can do Mont Blanc in your first season, just need the right conditions.

In reply to astroman: COPY OF MY EMAIL WHICH I HAVE SENT TO YOU TODAY;
..................................................
Hi Astro..
If you like you are more than welcome to join me next
summer in the weeks 26,27 and the half of 28. I will start
in Zermatt by climbing some 3500+ snd 4000+ to gain
altitude experience. afterwards i will head to Aosta to
climb Gran paradiso etc. and then to my favourite spot :
Chamonix.. I have done Mt. Blanc this summer and climbed in
zermatt as well. I know many good routes in the valley I
would be able to show you.
BTW. I am 23 of age, living in Denmark and I have a
spare 'seat' in my tent (yes its even gib enough for two
big lads like us!!!)
Drop me a few lines if you like to join up with me...and
let us get some great fun together.
(in the last part of week 28 I will be doing some non-
climbing related things with my girlfriend like Bouldering
(she doesn't know what it is yet *S*), Paragliding etc.

Sincerely

Morten Lindholm
Photographer, DENMARK
www.Mortenlindholm.com

In reply to astroman:
Mountains such as Aiguille D'Argentierre and Aiguille du Tour both have easy routes to the top and offer a good introduction.
Something like Cosmiques Arete (if in condition) and Aiguille De L'M as both are pretty straightforward routes.

In reply to LINDHOLM:
Thanks for the offer. I'll look into the kind of stuff that looks right for me and get back to you if thats ok?