Goretex rain jacket for mountaineering?

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 briansy 25 Apr 2024

Guys, my head is spinning with all of the various options online for goretex jackets. I see 3 layer, 2 layer and all of the different other sub-labels of goretex and then there is the weight, breathability, fit, hood etc etc etc

I'll be going to Aconcagua in December and I guess getting to places that are very cold and quite high and with really high winds. Where does the rain jacket come in v the down suit and all of that stuff? I, of course, want to pack light as will be carrying my own gear but is, say, a Goretex paclite jacket not robust enough for strong winds and tougher conditions up high? 

Obviously if I can help it I want to be able to purchase something that will work in Scotland on my trip to the Cairngorms in less than a month (or anywhere in the UK in the summer essentially) as well as on big mountains - are these two aims incompatible with each other?

Any initial steer would be really helpful. I'm finding that most of the jackets I try on are bloody gigantic too, which I'm not really a fan of so thoughts on fit would also be useful. Thanks guys.

 slawrence1001 25 Apr 2024
In reply to briansy:

Can't speak for all Goretex jackets but I have the ME Tupilak jacket and it is amazing for both Scottish Winter and mountaineering. Very pricey and a bit bulkier but absolutely bombproof.

OP briansy 25 Apr 2024
In reply to briansy:

Thanks for this, reading the reviews of it, it certainly seems like it's ideal for what I want but also having a Pac lite one for the summer or milder British winter days like the Garwhal one by ME. It seems like an all rounder would be sub optimal for the more severe conditions and a bit heavy in the summer. 

 pacef8 25 Apr 2024
In reply to briansy:

Better to have something better that you can unzip rather than freezing cold and wet . A cheap golf top would be just as good for a summer top . Buy the tupilak or lohtze you will be confident that you have something for the worst weather . 

 Dj viper 25 Apr 2024
In reply to briansy: I use mountain equipment Kongur MRT jacket and salopettes (sp) at work (north wales) and they’ve never let me down when it comes to durability or waterproof capabilities, I understand there more than a tad pricey but I’ve found you definitely get what you pay for

 Guy Hurst 25 Apr 2024
In reply to briansy:

Two other mountaineering jackets I've seen in action and been impressed by are the Alpkit Definition and Spayway Torridon. A friend has had the Definition jacket for a couple of years and says it's as good as ME Goretex jackets which he owned in the past. He's pretty fussy and would not praise an item of gear if it was no good. The jacket has also had good reviews, includingb on UKC.

The Spayway Torridon I've got myself and although it's billed as a walking jacket I would say it's well suited to mountaineering. It's got all the necessary features, including a very rugged build.

Both jackets are considerably cheaper than the latest top end Gore jackets. You could buy one of them and a lightweight summer waterproof and still be well in pocket.

In reply to briansy:

I think the two environments you describe - altitude and Scottish winter - need totally different jackets. By all means take a gtex for the exped but you need down for Aconcagua.

OP briansy 26 Apr 2024
In reply to nickinscottishmountains:

Cheers Nick, yes I'll be getting a down jacket for Aconcagua for sure. But I was thinking in addition to that before it gets insanely cold and I need to put on the down. The kit list for Aconcagua is a bit intimidating I'm not gonna lie! It seems that each aspect (the large bag, smaller bag, sleeping bag, bottoms, jackets, socks, boots, ice axe, crampons etc etc etc) all have so many different choices and then there's shopping online v in person and is Scotland the place to go to buy it all or would central London have more choice etc etc 

 Siward 26 Apr 2024
In reply to Guy Hurst:

Certainly the old/original Torridon jacket was more than suited to full on Scottish winter conditions.

 mattc 26 Apr 2024
In reply to briansy:

There used to be a few shops in Covent garden. There are good shops in north wales. Defiantly try footwear on and get sooner rather than later. Do a lot of research before you commit to buying something, don't forget everyone has personal preferences and just because they work in a shop doesn't mean they have a clue what they are talking about!   

OP briansy 30 Apr 2024
In reply to slawrence1001:

> Can't speak for all Goretex jackets but I have the ME Tupilak jacket and it is amazing for both Scottish Winter and mountaineering. Very pricey and a bit bulkier but absolutely bombproof.

Hi there, I've taken delivery of the Tupilak and it is absolutely spot on - thanks so much for the recommendation. Fits perfectly in both a t shirt and 4 layers, blue colour is great and all of the reviews pretty much back up your comments. I have also ordered the pants which look great and reviews are similarly very positive. Not sure if I should look to get a paclite jacket for British summers - I think it makes sense to do that as I'll be moving fairly long distances with a good bit of gear. To date I've been using my Galvin Green golf rain gear which has actually done the job just fine but doesn't encourage you to balls it out in really crap weather!

 Brass Nipples 01 May 2024
In reply to briansy:

It’s worth seeing if anyone you know has some of the kit in your kit list, and you can borrow it.  It’s what I did when I did my first Himalayan outings.

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