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Lightning in mountains

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 Trangia 11 Jul 2010
Have many of you been caught out in a big thunderstorm in the mountains? I've been in some hairy situations in the Lake District, Alps and Pyrenees but two of the most scary were the Grand Canyon and in the Drakensberg, South Africa.

In the Grand Canyon we were coming back up Bright Angel trail one June day. It had been very hot and close. Suddenly the weather deteriorated very rapidly and a huge thunderstorn broke out. There were frequent lightning bolts above and below us and the canyon reverberated to the crash of thunder. The path rapidly became a fast flowing stream with water cascading down every gully. The rain turned to hail - huge granular lumps which stung and bruised us when they hit us. We were only wearing T shirts and shorts and it was really painful on our bare arms and legs. We tried to shelter under out day sacks as there was no other shelter. We became very cold and when we eventually reached the rim there was a foot of fresh snow lying. We got a room in the motel there and the storm rumbled on and off most of the night.

In the Drakensberg there was a similar quick build up, it was early January, mid summer. We had heard thunder rumbling in the hills, so had started a quick descent. We were within about a kilometer of the lodge when the storm hit. Again we were completely exposed on the bare hillside wearing just T shirts and shorts. The rain was like standing under a waterfall, I've never experienced such a volume, not even in the Indian monsoon. But much really frightning was the lightning. There were flashes about every 2 or 3 seconds with strikes occuring within 100 yards of us. It was terrifying and went on at this intensity for about 15 minutes, then abruptly it was over. The sun came out, the temperature shot up again and the wet ground started to steam. Our soaking clothes dried out on us in about half an hour and it was as though nothing had happened.

These summer afternoon storms are very common in South Africa, particularly in the Drakensberg and on the High Veldt. Generally you are in your car (sometimes the rain is so heavy that you can't see the road and have to pull over) or in a house, so it being caught out in them can be scary.
 Mr Lopez 11 Jul 2010
In reply to Trangia:
Yesterday in the Midi-Plan arete... Lightning hitting every pinnacle we went past, and regularly into the Midi, which we were cautiously approaching. A few times i thought about ditching the axes and coming back later to pick them up.

Good show none the less, albeit scary as hell. At one moment a single discharge hit the Geant, the Jorasses, and every summit in between.

timO 11 Jul 2010
In reply to Trangia: ....there are quite a few stories around of people at altitude where mountain-bikes have started buzzing and glowing, axes have been surrounded by St Elmo's Fire and so on. I reckon some of these accounts need to be taken with a fair pinch of salt (note not questionning the interesting posts above, and recognise that being high in the MB Massif is a whole different ball game - have heard VERY WEIRD stuff from very grounded people in relation to the microclimate there). I've been in loads of storms (bernese oberland and valais) and while the noises have been impressive, should I feel deprived that I've never experienced anything weird? Just rather boringly followed advice of where to sit when on a rock face - see
http://www.essortment.com/all/lighteningsafet_rfep.htm
note this says that throwing away metal gear is pointless. although I'm not sure I'd want two axes pointed skywards on my back during a storm....
and
http://www.torro.org.uk/site/lightning_info.php
which interestingly gives the stats.
there used to be a very good petzl info sheet with those stick-person diagrams showing where to shelter in a lightning storm - but God knows where I filed that.
I have read a sad account of a strike killing on an outcrop (Climbing no206, sept25 2001) without any warning at all.
 JTM 11 Jul 2010
In reply to Trangia:

Several, but the spookiest was on a very threatening stormy day, and after waiting an eternity for other groups to descend, I climbed up to the madonna on the Gran Paradiso. As I put the rope around her neck and squeezed the clove hitch tight, I was aware of a strange sensation on the right side of my body - like I'd got a twig of gorse down my shirt. I started to scratch the itch, then realised it was the crackling static that I was experiencing. I shouted 'No, go down' to my clients and we legged it. The lightning struck just as we reached the snow some minutes afterwards. Must have been pulling the clove hitch tight that did it....!

 Neil Adams 11 Jul 2010
In reply to Trangia: One of my scariest experiences in the mountains was being caught in a major thunderstorm while descending from the Grades Montets towards the N face of the Drus. The gully we were descending turned into a river of hail and there was lightning hitting the peaks all around us.

The forecast had been good so we were travelling light, hoping to bivvy at the Rognon and do the N face of the Petit Dru the next day. We got absolutely soaked to the skin and neither of us fancied spending the night out in that state, so we trudged all the way down past Montenvers to Cham.
In reply to Trangia:

in the pyrenees a few summers ago, there was usually a thunderstorm in the afternoon. on the 3rd day we were there though, it was much larger and longer than anything i'd experienced before. lightning every few seconds, and only a second or two delay between flash and sound. took the ice axes and crampons and put them away from the tent, and lay there thinking i was going to get fried. it lasted a good 3-4 hours.

didnt get fried though, obviously; but did feel pretty powerless lying there, didnt think wandering around outside carrying all my kit would have been any safer...

no st elmos fire or anything noted either...

cheers
gregor
 barrov 11 Jul 2010
In reply to Trangia:

I was caught out in the Sierra Nevada in S. Spain once. Not pleasant at all. But as with so many things in life, there's nothing better than a good scare to make you appreciate your continued existance!
Anonymous 11 Jul 2010
In reply to Mr Lopez:

Thought you would have read the forecast yesterday Oscar, that storm has been on the way for several days now.

It was prety impressive down in the valley, sure it must have scared the hell out of you up on the plan Traverse.

Pete
 Caralynh 11 Jul 2010
In reply to Trangia:

Yup, and nowhere exotic. Was on pitch 3 of Main Wall (Cyrn Las) when the heavens opened. Torrential rain, thunder and lightning. Decided retreat would take longer than climbing through it, so just carried on. Wettest I've ever been, since it was sunny when we walked in, and sacks with jackets were left at the base, so we were both in tshirts and shorts!
Gordon Smith 12 Jul 2010
In reply to Trangia: traversing the ridge off the top of the Pouce in the Aiguilles Rouges in a thunderstorm was exciting. Abbing down from an attempt on the Jorasses Central Couloir route with Dirty Alex, the dirty rat, hiding underneath me and lightning, thunder and tumbling rocks going off all at once was even more exciting(!). Sailing along rail down in a night-time squall in the Pacific doldrums surrounded by thunderheads all seeming to let fly at once en-route to Nuka Hiva from Cabo San Lucas while single-handing (more than a thousand miles to land in any direction - very lonely) was, perhaps, the most exciting time of my life - even more so than being caught in a cat. 4 typhoon a few years later(!!). Seeing as the boat's mast was deck-stepped and I only had some anchor chain clipped to the shrouds and dipped into the sea to ground the mast made the whole thing seem a bit too worrying for comfort. TBH I was scared sh*tless!!! Lightning is the one thing that absolutely terrifies me!
timO 12 Jul 2010
In reply to Trangia: ...hmmm...one thing I've just remembered is the risk of Via Ferrata-ing during the late afternoon, when the cables can apparently become lightning conductors - I've been told - but never directly experienced - that you can be lower on a VF and get zapped from a strike some distance above...any experience or verified accounts of this?
 Bruce Hooker 12 Jul 2010
In reply to timO:

I was climbing on the Aiguille de Peigne once, on a route which is in a big chimney that goes up the N E ridge when it started to rain, with a few distant flashes. As it wasn't too exposed to the weather we carried on until we started to feel mild electric shocks though the ropes that were running with water... at this time we headed down! The ropes and wet rock were already conducting the charge, and I've heard that heavily pegged routes can have the same effect... th shock jumps from peg to peg.

Another time when descending in a white out - total cotton wooler, impossible to see any difference between snow and cloud - on the big glacier plateau East of the Aiguille du Tour, we heard a buzzing noise in the otherwise total deadened silence. We thought it was odd for bees to be up there when suddenly we realised it was electrical discharge on the tips of our ice axes on our sacks! I had an aluminium Macinnes which must be a good conductor, rare at the time... We speeded up our descent somewhat after that
 beardy mike 12 Jul 2010
 beardy mike 12 Jul 2010
In reply to mike kann: That's mate, not made or as some might have read, maid. He wouldn't be very happy being mistaken for a maid
 Cardi 12 Jul 2010
In reply to Mr Lopez: Were degearing at the base of the Geant at the time (saturday afternoon). The strike hit the Geant 2/3 of the way up apparently, but me and my climbing partner received a massive clap to the head, and the sensation of being connected to the mains. His feet took till Sunday morning to stop tingling! A very scary retreat to the Torino. No intentions of getting that close to a thunderstorm ever again!
 robdan 12 Jul 2010
In reply to Trangia: Had to rappel off the summit of within a few metres of the Aig d'Entreves mid morning in early Sept '07. we rappelled off the back and static was buzzing everywhere, when I got to the base my hair was literally standing on end ! Fortunately it passed quickly.
 Howard J 13 Jul 2010
In reply to Trangia: We were on the Gross Fusshorn and less than a minute from the summit (nice and pointy, with a big metal cross - just what you need) when my ice-axe started buzzing. I immediately turned around, to the initial bewilderment of my less-experienced companion who hadn't realised what this indicated, and we descended as rapidly as we could. It still took several hours to get back to the hut, and the time-lag between flash and crash seemed instantaneous. Luckily we didn't see any actual strikes, but it was scary enough.

It's worth reading up on what to do in a thunderstorm since many of the intuitive things, such as sheltering in a cave or below an overhang, are actually dangerous as your body could provide the most direct way for the electrical charge to jump the gap. Apparently you're safer out in the open within a 60 degree zone down from the top of the crag.
 Martin W 13 Jul 2010
In reply to timO: One of my regular climbing partners got caught on a VF in the Dolomites during an electrical storm and did indeed get struck by lightning conducted down the VF cables. He came back from that holiday with two black eyes - caused by the lightning strikes, not from hitting his head.
 blurty 13 Jul 2010
In reply to Trangia:

Walking down the Vallee Blanche, the clap of thunder was so loud it started several small landslides on the hanging morraines on the sides of the valley

On the Monch, a strange crackling noise was traced to the metal hinges on my glasses buzzing. Lower down we came across a pile of metalware abandoned by a retreating party, it was humming/ buzzing a bit like a transformer. Managed to resist it as crag swag as well.

On the Charmoz a Portugese guy behind us was struck on the top of his helmet, it left a small burn mark on his carbon fibre helmet and he was speaking gibberish - wasn't sure if it was Shock or the effects of the shock. He was so happy to see us he hugged me and wouldn't let go.

 gedi 13 Jul 2010
In reply to Trangia:

Am I weird for wanting to be caught in a thunderstorm? I don't want to get hit by lightning, but want to experience the humming and zinging all around me!

There is a passage in one of Joe Simpson's books describing this scenario and I really enjoyed reading it.

The closest I've been is on the Mer de Glace a couple of years ago, and we had to scarper at the sight of incoming cumulonimbuses. I was disappointed and wanted to stay!

 Tom G 13 Jul 2010
In reply to Trangia:

On our first outing to the Alps, we were being guided by Mick Tighe on a 3 day hut to hut walk in the Stubai Alps. We were coming down from the Wilder Freiger when we could hear this strange hissing sound. I thought it was my mate's Camelbak leaking so we went looking for the leak. We then realised it was coming from the ice axe attached to his pack as he walked past a metal pole in the ridge.

I remember turning around to Mick to say how I thought there might be static electricity in the air - his combover was standing up on end! We hot footed it down the glacier to the hut just in time for the first lightning strike to hit the peak opposite with a spectacular flash and a deafening roar. Amazing stuff! Quite scary too!
Anonymous 13 Jul 2010
In reply to gedi:
> (In reply to Trangia)
>
> Am I weird for wanting to be caught in a thunderstorm? I don't want to get hit by lightning, but want to experience the humming and zinging all around me!


Yes you are definetly weird & certified.......

Got struck by lighting a good few years ago on saddleworth moor of all places not recommended at all.

Experienced the tingling etc but couldnt get away as was belaying a mate at the time.
My skin smelt like bacon that had been grilled for too long, had a very healthy respect for the power of storms since then.

 gedi 13 Jul 2010
In reply to Anonymous:

> Yes you are definetly weird & certified.......

Cool, thought so

I have a small experience of electric burns. Had a cardioversion about ten years ago (long story), woke up almost immediately after the shock and before the defibrillator operators had applied the burn cream, much to the surprise of the anaesthetist. Quite sore!
In reply to Anonymous: Yes the burned barbecue smell is most disconcerting. I try to avoid thunderstorms at all costs since my own little singeing incident on the Cobbler.
 sutty 13 Jul 2010
In reply to dan bailey:

Singed Cobblers, sounds painful.
In reply to sutty: Don't joke. Actually I escaped roasted nuts but did have a bit of a charred rump.
Clauso 13 Jul 2010
In reply to Trangia:

I once necked six bottles of White Lightning cider near the summit of Bowfell in the Lake District. It was simply awful and struck me down with the inability to use my legs.
 sutty 13 Jul 2010
In reply to Clauso:

I thought owls could fly.

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