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Considering heading to Norway for rock climbing and mountaineering in June/July. After 6 trips to the Alps I fancy somewhere different, where you can get a lot done in a shorter time. I’ve only ever climbed in Rjukan in winter. The following four areas seem to be the most interesting from South to North. On balance the Jotunheimen Area looks most suitable
Has anyone experience/advice on any – including if midges will be an issue!
1.Jotunheimen Area
Positives - inland and therefore more settled weather (hopefully!). Lots of peaks near each other. Most mountains 2,000 m.
Negatives - most southerly; glacier approaches
2. Romsdale Area
Positives - Mountains lower and look more spectacular; Romsdalehorn looks incredible. No glacier appraoches. shorter days
Negatives - southerly and close to sea therefore maybe more suspect weather
3. Narvik/Lofoten Area
Positives - Stetind! and Lofoten!
Negatives - expensive to get to and difficult to get around. Lofoten has unpredictable weather.
4. Lyngen Area
Positives; not much of a drive from the airport. Most northerly and therefore most stable weather(?). Inland. Very remote. Mountains look spectacular.
Negatives: Very remote; Very long Days out; maybe not the best place to go for first summer trip to Norway!
Thanks
Has anyone experience/advice on any – including if midges will be an issue!
1.Jotunheimen Area
Positives - inland and therefore more settled weather (hopefully!). Lots of peaks near each other. Most mountains 2,000 m.
Negatives - most southerly; glacier approaches
2. Romsdale Area
Positives - Mountains lower and look more spectacular; Romsdalehorn looks incredible. No glacier appraoches. shorter days
Negatives - southerly and close to sea therefore maybe more suspect weather
3. Narvik/Lofoten Area
Positives - Stetind! and Lofoten!
Negatives - expensive to get to and difficult to get around. Lofoten has unpredictable weather.
4. Lyngen Area
Positives; not much of a drive from the airport. Most northerly and therefore most stable weather(?). Inland. Very remote. Mountains look spectacular.
Negatives: Very remote; Very long Days out; maybe not the best place to go for first summer trip to Norway!
Thanks
In reply to jaysus: http://home.online.no/~mariusbe/nor/areas.html#Hemsedal
Jotunheimen definitely one of the best areas to go to.. in particular Hurrungane. Enjoy
Jotunheimen definitely one of the best areas to go to.. in particular Hurrungane. Enjoy
In reply to jaysus:
Hey! I went to Norway this summer. Midges are worse than Scotland. (Mygmilk) is what the Norwegians use....it's awesome insect repelent and only 17% Deet so doesn't make you disolve.
Midges cease to be an issue about about 900m *don't quote me on that*.
I went to Nusvag (Loppa Penninsula) and Finnmark Vidda (Alta area).
http://katiesadventures.wetpaint.com/page/Arctic+Norway+Expedition+2009
Hey! I went to Norway this summer. Midges are worse than Scotland. (Mygmilk) is what the Norwegians use....it's awesome insect repelent and only 17% Deet so doesn't make you disolve.
Midges cease to be an issue about about 900m *don't quote me on that*.
I went to Nusvag (Loppa Penninsula) and Finnmark Vidda (Alta area).
http://katiesadventures.wetpaint.com/page/Arctic+Norway+Expedition+2009
In reply to jaysus:
Not only that, the midnight sun means that you can climb round the clock if you want to/have to. That actually, is one of the bigger dangers on the bigger routes, that you just keep keep going because it's still light, and you can really lose all track of time!
The only time I've been to Jotunheim the weather was worse than Romsdal. Most years the weather in Romsdal can be very fine in July, though Store Trolltind tends to make it's own weather to some extent. The main point is that the climbing in Romsdal is among the most astonishing rock scenery in Europe, whereas the Jotunheim is like many lesser mountain ranges, good but nothing particularly unusual, except for the remoteness. All of Norway is very unspoiled.
The Romsdalshorn is very friendly. It's worth camping round there for quite a few days, because Vengetind, too, offers some very fine routes (e.g the N/W Ridge).
There is also good rock climbing that's relatively easy of access from the top of the Trollstigen pass on both Bispen and Kongen.
The routes on the Romsdal side of the Trolltindene are a completely different ball game. All very long and serious without exception, and most of them are exposed to serious rock fall danger in places. Except for, eg, the French route and the Trollryggen Pillar, the routes are very out of fashion nowadays in summer.
Store Trolltind from Nordre Trolltind (via the n/e ridge) looks very good, but it's a very long day. You would be very well advised to do the easy walk/scramble route up the back, via Trollstigen (i.e your descent route) first. That, too, is a very long day, but it takes in the top of the Trolltind Wall at Brur Skar, which is surely one of the most gobsmacking mountain viewpoints in Europe.
(Pictures can be seen on my website: html:// www.gordonstainforth.co.uk/ , on both my front page and in my 'visual diary).
The two times I've been to Romsdal I've had virtually no problem with midges. Very, very trivial by Scottish standards.
I highly recommend that you stay in cabins anyway. (I can recommend one very good site at the head of both Romsdal and Isterdal, and within about twenty minutes driving distance of Andalsnes.)
> Considering heading to Norway for rock climbing and mountaineering in June/July. After 6 trips to the Alps I fancy somewhere different, where you can get a lot done in a shorter time.
Not only that, the midnight sun means that you can climb round the clock if you want to/have to. That actually, is one of the bigger dangers on the bigger routes, that you just keep keep going because it's still light, and you can really lose all track of time!
> I’ve only ever climbed in Rjukan in winter. The following four areas seem to be the most interesting from South to North. On balance the Jotunheimen Area looks most suitable
The only time I've been to Jotunheim the weather was worse than Romsdal. Most years the weather in Romsdal can be very fine in July, though Store Trolltind tends to make it's own weather to some extent. The main point is that the climbing in Romsdal is among the most astonishing rock scenery in Europe, whereas the Jotunheim is like many lesser mountain ranges, good but nothing particularly unusual, except for the remoteness. All of Norway is very unspoiled.
The Romsdalshorn is very friendly. It's worth camping round there for quite a few days, because Vengetind, too, offers some very fine routes (e.g the N/W Ridge).
There is also good rock climbing that's relatively easy of access from the top of the Trollstigen pass on both Bispen and Kongen.
The routes on the Romsdal side of the Trolltindene are a completely different ball game. All very long and serious without exception, and most of them are exposed to serious rock fall danger in places. Except for, eg, the French route and the Trollryggen Pillar, the routes are very out of fashion nowadays in summer.
Store Trolltind from Nordre Trolltind (via the n/e ridge) looks very good, but it's a very long day. You would be very well advised to do the easy walk/scramble route up the back, via Trollstigen (i.e your descent route) first. That, too, is a very long day, but it takes in the top of the Trolltind Wall at Brur Skar, which is surely one of the most gobsmacking mountain viewpoints in Europe.
(Pictures can be seen on my website: html:// www.gordonstainforth.co.uk/ , on both my front page and in my 'visual diary).
>
> Has anyone experience/advice on any – including if midges will be an issue!
> Has anyone experience/advice on any – including if midges will be an issue!
The two times I've been to Romsdal I've had virtually no problem with midges. Very, very trivial by Scottish standards.
I highly recommend that you stay in cabins anyway. (I can recommend one very good site at the head of both Romsdal and Isterdal, and within about twenty minutes driving distance of Andalsnes.)
In reply to jaysus:
There's quite a lot of interesting looking stuff around Tromso besides Lyngen: on Kvaløya especially. Have a look at http://www.lyngen.name/ and http://www.blixt.no/KvaloyaArchives/index.html
There's quite a lot of interesting looking stuff around Tromso besides Lyngen: on Kvaløya especially. Have a look at http://www.lyngen.name/ and http://www.blixt.no/KvaloyaArchives/index.html
In reply to jaysus:
I have been to all these places, and they are all brilliant. I have done quite well with the weather around August, and the midges aren't so bad at that time of year. Only got badly eaten one day in a 3 week trip around lyngen & lofoten in August '06.
According to several guidebooks I have read the bugs are at the worst around may & june just after the snow melts. I have never been there that early, so can't confirm this.
My first trip took in Romsdal, Jotenheimen and Hardangavidda, which worked pretty well as they seemed to be about a days drive apart and we had 3 weeks. Travel times are longer when you go further north.
If you are in Romsdal then the S or E ridges of Bispen are worth a look. About diff & S respectively I think. I got spat out by Romsdalhorn due to inexperience and poor route finding.
If you go for the flight into Tromso then there are plenty of top quality mountains between Tromso and Lyngen. If you want to find a good mountain there then throw a rock! You want to go earlier in the year for any of the snow plods though - the glaciers and gullys were in a bad way by august.
I have been to all these places, and they are all brilliant. I have done quite well with the weather around August, and the midges aren't so bad at that time of year. Only got badly eaten one day in a 3 week trip around lyngen & lofoten in August '06.
According to several guidebooks I have read the bugs are at the worst around may & june just after the snow melts. I have never been there that early, so can't confirm this.
My first trip took in Romsdal, Jotenheimen and Hardangavidda, which worked pretty well as they seemed to be about a days drive apart and we had 3 weeks. Travel times are longer when you go further north.
If you are in Romsdal then the S or E ridges of Bispen are worth a look. About diff & S respectively I think. I got spat out by Romsdalhorn due to inexperience and poor route finding.
If you go for the flight into Tromso then there are plenty of top quality mountains between Tromso and Lyngen. If you want to find a good mountain there then throw a rock! You want to go earlier in the year for any of the snow plods though - the glaciers and gullys were in a bad way by august.
In reply to jaysus: In June I spent a month in Norway, 2 weeks in Tromso area, 2 weeks in Lofoten area. Tromso weather up in the mountains can be pretty wild. While we were there in June two local lads who were staying in the hut were climbing on Hollander in a storm and very sadly never made it off the mountain. But the granite up there is absolutely amazing, and lots of long sustained routes on the cliffs. It's an alpine ennvironment up there. Having just read your profile not sure there is much in your grade range to go at around this area...
To contrast, for the later part of June we went to Lofoten and climbed every day for two weeks. Mosquitos are a bit of problem, but we just lit a fire every night and didn't suffer too badly around camp. Much more relaxed cragging feel even on Presten compared to up around Tromso.
Have fun!
To contrast, for the later part of June we went to Lofoten and climbed every day for two weeks. Mosquitos are a bit of problem, but we just lit a fire every night and didn't suffer too badly around camp. Much more relaxed cragging feel even on Presten compared to up around Tromso.
Have fun!
In reply to Matt_b: And to add to that, hitching in Norway is some of the easiest I've done, with very friendly locals who are happy to drive an hour out of their way to take you somewhere.
In reply to jaysus:
hi there,
i've been loads of times (6 or 7 now) in the summer and really rate it. I've been extensively in Jotunheimen but also visited Hardangervidda and this summer went to Rondane. The area is well set up for a mix of wild camping and hutting (when you need to dry out). Midges are occasionally bad but never noticably worse than wales/ lakes/ scotland in the summer.
it's the best for back country remote mountaineering.
email me if you want more ideas.
cheers
jez
hi there,
i've been loads of times (6 or 7 now) in the summer and really rate it. I've been extensively in Jotunheimen but also visited Hardangervidda and this summer went to Rondane. The area is well set up for a mix of wild camping and hutting (when you need to dry out). Midges are occasionally bad but never noticably worse than wales/ lakes/ scotland in the summer.
it's the best for back country remote mountaineering.
email me if you want more ideas.
cheers
jez
In reply to jaysus: I am also trying to get to Norway next year using my own car due to the high rental charges. They have discontinued the ferry from Newcastle to Bergen though so this now requires a long drive across Denmark and a second ferry to Oslo. Bring back the boat!!!
I would recommend the Jostedalsbreen glacier National Park. Its perhaps not as technical as you require but there is still plenty of ice/rock ect to keep you amused.
I would recommend the Jostedalsbreen glacier National Park. Its perhaps not as technical as you require but there is still plenty of ice/rock ect to keep you amused.
In reply to lee birtwistle: Oh that is a real shame. Got the ferry with our car a few years ago and the sail up the fjord to Bergen is magnificent. What will the Geordies do now for a scenic piss-up?
In reply to jaysus: I haven't been.... i live there!
Romsdal is one of my local stomping grounds and has a lot to offer for climbers, but it can rain a lot, like it did this year from august til november when it started snowing...
Romsdal is one of my local stomping grounds and has a lot to offer for climbers, but it can rain a lot, like it did this year from august til november when it started snowing...
In reply to jaysus:
To be fair all the areas you mentioned are good. For a first trip I suggest designing an itinerary around travel times and concentrating on having a good time. It will be great wherever you go.
To be fair all the areas you mentioned are good. For a first trip I suggest designing an itinerary around travel times and concentrating on having a good time. It will be great wherever you go.
In reply to jaysus: I've written a review of the Kvaloya guidebook for UKC that they never put up, I'll start nagging Mick to do so because it might be useful.
Kvaloya is superb. The rock can be a bit shite in Lyngen, but you can travel on glaciers and do real mountaineering with crampons and axes so that's cool.
I've been on 3 separate week long trips to Lofoten in different years and never lost a day's climbing to rain. Various pictures of all three spots in my gallery.
Kvaloya is superb. The rock can be a bit shite in Lyngen, but you can travel on glaciers and do real mountaineering with crampons and axes so that's cool.
I've been on 3 separate week long trips to Lofoten in different years and never lost a day's climbing to rain. Various pictures of all three spots in my gallery.
In reply to TobyA: Have you climbed Flygen Hollander? Probably one of the best lines I've ever climbed. Most other routes on the cliff seem to follow this ethos.
In reply to TobyA:
Check out James Baxter's book on the 2000 m peaks of the Hurrungane.
It was the first of a series, there may be more by now. Full of good general tips about Norway.
Norway is a paradise - I've been 6 times. If only there was still a ferry from the uk.
Check out James Baxter's book on the 2000 m peaks of the Hurrungane.
It was the first of a series, there may be more by now. Full of good general tips about Norway.
Norway is a paradise - I've been 6 times. If only there was still a ferry from the uk.
In reply to jaysus:
I've been to 2) 3) and 4). It rained all week in Romsdal, but we climbed the Romsdalshorn anyway and the big roadside crag opposite Troll Wall (Hornaksla was it ?) has plenty of steep rock to go at during gaps in the rain. There were midges and mozzies. Narvik/Lofoten and Kvaloya/Lyngen would be better IMO. The latter especially if you are keen on combining some high quality hard granite climbing at places like Hollanderen with real mountaineering routes in Lyngen, which is not that remote really, although you are right that the walk-ins could be long. I think I've posted some suggestions for mountaineering routes in Lyngen on another thread a while ago. I've not much experience of the place in summer but the rock has a bad reputation, although it depends what you are comparing it with.
Dave
I've been to 2) 3) and 4). It rained all week in Romsdal, but we climbed the Romsdalshorn anyway and the big roadside crag opposite Troll Wall (Hornaksla was it ?) has plenty of steep rock to go at during gaps in the rain. There were midges and mozzies. Narvik/Lofoten and Kvaloya/Lyngen would be better IMO. The latter especially if you are keen on combining some high quality hard granite climbing at places like Hollanderen with real mountaineering routes in Lyngen, which is not that remote really, although you are right that the walk-ins could be long. I think I've posted some suggestions for mountaineering routes in Lyngen on another thread a while ago. I've not much experience of the place in summer but the rock has a bad reputation, although it depends what you are comparing it with.
Dave
In reply to Dave:
I am interested by the midge and mosquito comments. I was warned about both but wasn't troubled by either.
Presumably Norway is much like Scotland in that sometimes there are loads and other times there are none. Those who experience loads are unlikely ever to forget the experience!
I am interested by the midge and mosquito comments. I was warned about both but wasn't troubled by either.
Presumably Norway is much like Scotland in that sometimes there are loads and other times there are none. Those who experience loads are unlikely ever to forget the experience!
In reply to the real dr gav: Never had any bother with mozzies in weeks of camping in Lofoten - by the sea - but bivied one out one rainy night on Kvaloya and they were well annoying!
In reply to Matt_b:
No - we kinda made a mistake and just went up for a day - should have stayed in the hut for a few, and we did Gallionsruta which is roughly the ab descent line. Very nice but only HVS/E1-ish. I think FH might be a bit hard for me, but I could actually be inspired to train for a wall like Baugen!
> (In reply to TobyA) Have you climbed Flygen Hollander?
No - we kinda made a mistake and just went up for a day - should have stayed in the hut for a few, and we did Gallionsruta which is roughly the ab descent line. Very nice but only HVS/E1-ish. I think FH might be a bit hard for me, but I could actually be inspired to train for a wall like Baugen!
In reply to jaysus: Stay above the tree line, with just a little wind they will take cover on the ground.
Also check out the area "Hurrungane", it's just southwest of Jotunheimen, some even consioder it to be a part of it. Definately the most "alpine" area in Norway. Lots of great climbing. http://www.scandinavianmountains.com/areas/01-hurrungane/index.htm
Also check out the area "Hurrungane", it's just southwest of Jotunheimen, some even consioder it to be a part of it. Definately the most "alpine" area in Norway. Lots of great climbing. http://www.scandinavianmountains.com/areas/01-hurrungane/index.htm
In reply to jaysus:
I have a friend in Furuflaten, about 20 mins south of Lyngen, stayed with her once, but didn't do any climbing / proper walking.
We did walk up towards the glacier at the top of the valley, literally behind her house, and that took us about an hour at a leisurely pace. The mountains there are stunning, and from looking at them from the valley bottom, they look accessible and not overly intimidating to me, however, my friend wouldn't let me go any closer and as I was staying with her, I respected her wishes.
As for midges, I don't recall any - even when we spent the evenings sat up in the valley drinking till 3am!
I was there over the summer soltice for about a week, and the weather was pleasantly warm and settled all week.
Wherever you choose to go in Norway, I am sure you will have a great time!
I have a friend in Furuflaten, about 20 mins south of Lyngen, stayed with her once, but didn't do any climbing / proper walking.
We did walk up towards the glacier at the top of the valley, literally behind her house, and that took us about an hour at a leisurely pace. The mountains there are stunning, and from looking at them from the valley bottom, they look accessible and not overly intimidating to me, however, my friend wouldn't let me go any closer and as I was staying with her, I respected her wishes.
As for midges, I don't recall any - even when we spent the evenings sat up in the valley drinking till 3am!
I was there over the summer soltice for about a week, and the weather was pleasantly warm and settled all week.
Wherever you choose to go in Norway, I am sure you will have a great time!
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