UKC

Hey folks,

My brother and I are planning to do Piz Bernina at the end of the month.

The plan is:

- day 1: Diavolezza car park - Boval Hut

- day 2: Boval -  Piz Morteratsch (3751m) - Tschierva Hut

- day 3: Tschierva Hut - Piz Bernina - Diavolezza via Marco e Rosa (if on time, we take the cable car down). We can’t stop at the Marco e Rosa Hut as it’s fully booked already.

Sketch: https://www.komoot.com/tour/1155692168?ref=itd&share_token=aCdD1K4SDd7N...

We’re both well trained and experienced, and have done similar summits in the past. But are wondering if the third day might be too much: 14km, 1800D+
Especially considering we might have to cross some glacier terrain later in the day to reach the Divolezza cable car.

Has anyone done it before? Any tips?

Coming down the Fortezza, the glacier crossings to get to the Diavolezza Station are pretty benign. Sounds like a long day if you miss the cable car.

It all depends on the state of the glacier. If you are fast you could be at the Marco e Rosa in 8 hours. Add 4 hours for the descent via the Piz Palu. That's doable.

If you are late, I imagine the hut might let you squeeze in. That said, a dodgy glacier crossing might be preferable to a stay at hut. The toilets are disgusting and the food is terrible. Last year a guide at our table had the vegetarian option, which was two fried eggs. That was the evening meal, not breakfast!

Hi Interesting plan, I was just scrolling the forum for information and partners around the Piz Bernina area. I will be there in a couple  of days if you are still looking for a 3rd party. I must admit my plans  were more along the line of approaching from Diavolezza and descending the same way. shame about the hut, but not surprised, I thought a bevy/single man tent would be a better option. 

Any way if you are In the area, and up for any climbing or other mountaineering objectives, would be great to meet up. 

Cheers, Nick

Hahaha, interesting to hear that it has not changed in about 17 years. We had a totally disgusting meal of one fried egg with some tinned peas there in the evening. And the wee toilet was grim.  Never mind, it was certainly memorable....