UKC

Atc or Atc XP

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 andy_e 19 Feb 2010
Was thinking of replacing my old Wild Country VC with something a bit smoother and nicer.

i was thinking of the BD Atc as it is light weight and not too expensive. Although the Xp is an interesting option, are the teeth really that useful / worth nearly double the price?

 uncontrollable 19 Feb 2010
In reply to talon_guy:

the teeth will make a difference if you use skinny ropes or belay 'heavy' folks
 The Lemming 19 Feb 2010
In reply to talon_guy:

Don't know about the XP, however I've had my ATC since 1995 which makes it money well spent.
 Dominion 19 Feb 2010
In reply to talon_guy:


The specifications say:

ATC XP for ropes 11mm to 8.1 mm

ATC for ropes 11mm to 8.5mm


If you use really skinny half-ropes, or your partner has a half-rope that is less than 8.5mm, then an XP

Or if you are looking to get half-ropes that are thinner that 8.5mm...

||-)
In reply to talon_guy: I had one, never used it other than a spare belay plate. Our lass dropped it off Gimmer last summer and I've never felt the need to replace it. A petzel reverso is a good bit of kit, definately worth the extra money but an atc xp is a bit of a gimic IMO, unless you're very nervous or prone to loosing concentration.
OP andy_e 19 Feb 2010
Thanks for replies, the specs help, i think i'm just going to go for the atc, as the rope diameter isn't that different.

I don't tend to use anything smaller than 9mm ropes, my own is a 10.5. So original it is ( and the price swings it a bit,)

thanks for the help.
 Green Porridge 20 Feb 2010
In reply to talon_guy:

Ive got an XP and the difference is really noticable over the ATC. The XP is really smooth, but also very easy to control. If you get the xp you can always use it over the non-teeth side when you want a bit less friction, but I must say that 90% of the time I use the teeth and it works a treat.

Tim
 The Lemming 20 Feb 2010
In reply to Green Porridge:
> (In reply to talon_guy)
>
> Ive got an XP and the difference is really noticable over the ATC. The XP is really smooth, but also very easy to control. If you get the xp you can always use it over the non-teeth side when you want a bit less friction, but I must say that 90% of the time I use the teeth and it works a treat.
>
> Tim

Out of curiosity, whats the XP like to abseil with?

 David Hooper 20 Feb 2010
In reply to talon_guy:
XP every time - better to have the high friction mode and not use it, rather than not having it and one day needing it.

I use mine from wall climbing , right through to ice climbing on super skinnies - probably the best device on the market at the mo.

To the previous poster - the high friction mode is too slow for abbing , unless exceptionally heavy or using super skinny ropes. Normal side gives ample friction.
 Green Porridge 20 Feb 2010
In reply to David Hooper:

> To the previous poster - the high friction mode is too slow for abbing , unless exceptionally heavy or using super skinny ropes. Normal side gives ample friction.

Damn - I must be super heavy then.... In reality, I use the high friction side if I'm on my 9mm doubles and the ab is overhanging, super long and pretty steep, I want to stop to retrieve gear or if for some reason I'm not feeling so comfortable with it and want the extra control. Otherwise, I just go for the normal side. On my old, fat single rrope it was be the low friction side every time. It is nice to have the option though, and then it doesn't mattter if you're climbing on super new and slick skinny doubles or an old and furry single.

Tim
 Green Porridge 20 Feb 2010
To the OP - I've certainly found it better (smoother, less jerky, and more controllable) to use than the Wild country VC I have.
 Jenny C 20 Feb 2010
In reply to talon_guy:

My belay plate of choice is the original VC and on those occasions that I use an ATC I personally find it a bit slick for my liking.

Rather than the ATC XP look at the Petzl Verso, basically the same as the Reverso3 but without the guide function.
 freerangecat 20 Feb 2010
In reply to The Lemming:
> (In reply to Epic Ebdon)
> [...]
>
> Out of curiosity, whats the XP like to abseil with?

I'm pretty light (8 stone) and found it hard to get anywhere when turned the 'grippy' way, but ok the other way.

Cat
 TobyA 20 Feb 2010
In reply to talon_guy: I gave up on the ATC almost 10 years ago after getting scared by its slickness abbing off the S. face of the Midi. I've use a Reverso and Guide ATC since, and recently swapped to a Reverso III. All are better than the ATC and the Reverso III the best of all.

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