In reply to Gfunk:
Having had one for a couple years now and used it a fair bit:
- I find it slightly on the warm side for walking in but certainly not to bad if you're not pacing it. If you are then I find just the merino baselayer enough (I use Icebreaker 260 weight).
- For pure ice / face routes it's fantastic. The hood could be improved a little and the zip occasionally works down slightly but as a compromise on temperature for climbing / belaying it has a really wide range.
- For mixed routes I'd go with another top, it wears well but not as well as say a Gamma MX (I have the old style).
- For skiing / layering in cold climbs it works brilliantly under the MX or a hard shell.
- Weight wise it lives in the pack as a "warm layer" in the summer. I team mine with a down vest for alpine stuff (generally a good forecast) and have a Rab Sawtooth for moving in during the day.
It's a great piece of kit but its more of an "add in" to an existing setup you know works then a complete shell / warm layer in one.
Ollie
p.s. I work for a well known gear shop hence all the jackets I've tried over the years.