UKC

Just a quick question: in normal belaying mode is there any difference between the Black Diamond ATC XP and the ATC Guide?

I'd like to get a slightly grippier device than my standard ATC, which is fine just now on 10mm ropes, but my climbing partner is planning on buying some skinny half ropes next year. I don't envisage using the guide mode very much at all, but if there's no difference when belaying normally I think I might as well future-proof my purchase and go for the ATC Guide. However, just wondering if the Guide has a different groove profile to the XP that might make it just a bit too grippy and inconvenient, particularly down the wall?

Basically, cost and weight aside, and reason not to go for the Guide over the XP?

In reply to Taurig:
No.

In reply to Taurig:

Ace, thanks, just bought the Guide. Mucking about with it, seems like a lot more friction than my standard ATC.

In reply to Taurig: If you're worried about the extra friction when you're using fat wall ropes it's worth noting you can use it like a normal ATC by putting it the other way up (it's detailed in the instruction manual which I guess you still have if it's brand new).

In reply to Taurig:
The XP has only really has around 10-15% more braking force than the old ATC but is still about the best performer of the normal plates, a bit better is the Metolious BRD but then you are drifting into the Smart/SRC concept and more critical rope handling issues.

In reply to jimtitt:

Is there some more detail to that 10-15% number? Is that for the full rope range of the ATC xp? (7.7-11mm)

In reply to needvert:

That´s what comes of depending on ones memory! I revisited my handy table of results from various tests, it´s more like 20-30% for single ropes 8.9mm and up.
There aren´t many reliable figures for thinner ropes as when most of the tests were done using twins wasn´t very common. Testing as a half rope one would only use one strand anyway since the intention is that one alone is capable of holding a fall. With thin ropes tested singly the karabiner tends to twist and the rope jams on the side of the slot making the results erratic.
Somewhere I´ve a list of the forces when abseiling on various thinner stuff (as two strands) but no idea where it is!

In reply to Taurig: I own both. the guide does have a slightly different groove profile. I find it grippier - I'd happily belay on the guide using 8mm ropes but I think the atc xp isnt really grippy enough for safe belaying high factor falls down to ropes that thin. Is the guide annoyingly grippy? sometimes id say but better on skinnier ropes. The guide mode has its place, great for quick belaying up easy ground. Not something id use much in the uk though.