/ Belay device for comps and olympics

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SteveX 11 Feb 2020

Is there a standard device for belaying at comps and the Olympics, if not, what is the most popular device?

Cheers

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MischaHY 11 Feb 2020
In reply to SteveX:

Usually they use a tube in my experience. Competition belaying is extremely soft and lowering is immediate so they literally just catch-lower you in one big swooping progressive fall. It's quite disconcerting the first few times! 

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wbo2 11 Feb 2020
In reply to SteveX: That.  I've used a pivot - assisted lockers aren't allowed for lead.

Don't know the situation with speed - autobelay?.  I've used two people on a gri gri before - one to pull down, one to pull through

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drolex 11 Feb 2020
In reply to SteveX:

Whatever the belayer prefers. At the qualifiers in Toulouse, there was no obligation towards a type of device.

For speed it was done on autobelays.

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SteveX 11 Feb 2020
In reply to drolex:

> Whatever the belayer prefers. 

>

That seems to contradict wbo2 who says assisted locker aren't allowed for lead

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drolex 11 Feb 2020
In reply to SteveX:

He's right and I'm wrong. I have checked and assisted lockers are indeed not allowed.

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whenry 11 Feb 2020
In reply to SteveX:

Depends on the comp - if it's a fairly informal affair at your local wall then normally any belay device is allowed.

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Stuart William 11 Feb 2020
In reply to wbo2:

Interesting. Do you know why assisted lockers aren’t  allowed?

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lithos 11 Feb 2020
In reply to Stuart William:

i would imagine to avoid short roping but i dont know for sure

who belays ?  does each team/country have their own  belayers?

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Iamgregp 12 Feb 2020
In reply to lithos:

The world's best of course  https://www.vimeo.com/238755057 

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