UKC

ive been climbing for a fair few years now, and ive always managed to come up with an excuse not to buy cams (other than the truth, i cant afford the buggers! so i just knick everyone elses at the bottom of the route) but im finally going to bite the bullet and buy some.
So the question is: What are the best sizes to get? i climb all around the uk, and was planning on getting a set of 3, so go forth minions, and bring back advice!
Much Love
Ant

In reply to antmorgan1991:

The general consensus seems to be sizes 1, 2, 3. In practice though, I have cams ranging from a 10mm crack to an 85mm crack, and I use them all equally. In fact I often find myself wanting smaller and bigger ones.

In reply to antmorgan1991: If you look up site yeedjit.com they have all the info on most common size cracks for certain rock types. For example black diamond camelot .75 fits the most common size cracks in cairngorm granite, etc.

In reply to antmorgan1991:

BD .5 .75, 1, 2, 3 will get you through most stuff. But in saying that I have a couple of .3's and .4s as well as a 4 and 5 just in case a seagull gets too close and needs a battering.

In reply to antmorgan1991:

Guidebooks don't seem to expect you to have a super-huge cam (camalot 6!) and so offwidthing can get you some higher grades ;P

more seriously tho I'd go for 1,2,3, or 1.5, 2.5, 3.5 depending on what you mates have

In reply to antmorgan1991:

Very dependent on rock type etc.

Broadly speaking I use my camolot 0.4, 0.5, 0.75 and 1 most as a generalisation across crags in Scotland.

On peak grit you might find a camalot 2 very useful.

Very hard to give solid advice but i'd be tempted to go 0.4, 0.75, 1

Maybe 0.5, 1, and 0.75 or 2 if you frequent grit crack-climbs. Eventually you'll probably want them all and you can bet that whatever you decide it'l be one your missing that exclusively fits by that desperately run out crux move!

In reply to antmorgan1991:

I got a long way with just DMM 4CU sizes 0, 1, 2, and 3. Sold the 0 as barely ever placed it, and just getting DMM Demons in 0.5, 1.5, 2.5, and 3.5 to complete the range. Hope that'll do me for the next 15 years!

this is wicked, cheers for all your help folks! now ive got some idea of what to buy

In reply to antmorgan1991:

http://www.theoutdoorshop.com/showPart.asp?part=PN90206&product=Wild%20...

1.5 friend or camalot .75 is a really useful size- this set gives you one each side.

In reply to antmorgan1991: C4 Camalots from £38 at TheOutdoorShop... price match them at GoOutdoors & get them for £34.80 for sizes .3, .4 & .5 £36 each for .75, 1 & 2.... but you've got to buy 2 or 3 to avoid £5 postage.

In reply to antmorgan1991: ...or price match Helium Friend set & get them for £107

In reply to antmorgan1991: Get micros and smaller cams first, most people have sizes 1, 2, 3 so start with something that's more likely to complement the person you climb with's rack. No point having two identical sets.

Price match price match price match...where have the cool smaller shops gone with local knowledge and useful tips?

No offence ment, though.

In reply to antmorgan1991: This looks like a good deal. I use DMM 4CUs, among other types of cams, but like the 4CUs best.

http://www.joe-brown.com/outdoor-equipment/dmm_4cu_cams__any_3_deal

I got sizes 1, 2 and 3 first.

Ian