So I've got a weird left big toe. Think I broke it a few times kicking the wall in whips/belay surprises. It no longer bends much, and any remotely aggressive shoe is agony. I went to the doctors, they did x rays, and told me it's fine and there's nothing wrong with it. It's obviously not, but whatever. It's only an issue when climbing, not in everyday life.
I've been using La Sportiva Tarantulaces, as they're about the only thing that don't cause me extreme pain in my left big toe. They were my first shoe, and I've tried other shoes now and again, and ended up back at the Tarantulaces because I can just wear them all day with minimal issues.
The problem with them is that the rubber really sucks, and they're just kinda poorly made. They have nowhere near enough rubber on the toe, so it doesn't take long for holes to appear.
I tried the La Sportiva Finale's, but will have to return them as they cause pain.
I think I just need a straight shoe. I think it's anything remotely asymmetrical is what causes the toe pain. So, my question is.. What should I be trying next? Basically I want a noob comfy shoe, with the best rubber possible and as little asymmetry as possible.
Hi George - tried to email but am not allowed it seems. I go for shoes like that too and had they been still available would have suggested Five 10 Newton or Spire. They're obsolete but on the off chance you're around a size 9 I have a pair of Spires a bit too big for me that I can sell cheaply if it helps?
Ah, thanks for the offer! I'm size 10.5-11 street shoe though. I tend to wear 9 to 9.5 La Sportiva, but they're notorious for coming up big. I tried some Five 10's (moccasym's) at my street size once and found them uncomfortable, so I'm thinking I wouldn't be able to downsize that much. Oddly the issue with them was that they did something weird with my middle toe. Bunched it all up somehow, but I'm not one of those people with a longer middle toe so it was very confusing! Especially as they felt big everywhere else.
I’ve had a couple of pairs of Evolv Elektra over the years as my comfy shoes. I’ve found them easy to wear all day, no nipping, bunching or squeezing of toes.
I think the “male “ equivalent is the Evolv Defy.
My climbing partner has a similar problem and absolutely swears by the Evolve Defy, he has had a few pairs of them now I think. He uses them for everything from Trad, to sport and bouldering.
Five ten anasazi lace any use?
Mine are super comfy and super sensitive foot feels natural and supported
Scarpa Maestro seem like they’d fit the bill
I get on well with sportiva tc pro's for a similar reason. They are thick soled tho, so you cant feel much...but i got used to it. And i find the stiff sole actually makes them better than most flat shoes, as it gives you the support that would normally be achieved by knuckling the toe. I also like Katana's which are slightly more aggressive, but not much. They're better for bouldering/sport/training. Tc pros for trad/mega comfort.
I gambled on a pair of Ocun Jett LU's as the UKC review said loads of space in the toe box and I saw a pair on the Costwolds site for £65ish. They're more asymmetrical (but still not massively so) than the tarantulace, but just as comfortable.
Think I could have gone with a smaller size, but I'll stick with them. If they stretch too much, I'll downsize for a new pair. So cheap it doesn't really matter too much.
Rubber feels nice and sticky too.
So yeah, anyone finding this thread with a similar issue to me.. Might be worth a go!
Thanks for all the advice though!
> I tried the La Sportiva Finale's, but will have to return them as they cause pain.
Where they too small? I've got a pair that were painful, but I've stretched them out during lock down, they're fine now.
I use straight shoes too, might get some of the Jetts next time, seems like you're getting on well with them.
> I think the “male “ equivalent is the Evolv Defy.
The OP did specify straight.
My favourite was the Red Chilli Spirit VCR. Comfy as. Great rubber too. Think they've recently been discontinued but you may still find them. Not sure what their replacement model is. For sizing I found my regular shoe size was ideal. Stretched just a small amount.
> Where they too small? I've got a pair that were painful, but I've stretched them out during lock down, they're fine now.
I had a pair for about a month last year, and really liked them but the pain was too much so I sold them. Bought another pair a full size up the other week thinking I might have just got too small a size, but even with them feeling baggy on my foot (no good, really) they STILL somehow hurt my toe. Really odd.
I think I'm just a bloody Cinderella!
William Chan has been climbing for 11 years based out of Hong Kong. Previously a volleyball player, he realised that the 'lifestyle' aspect of climbing suited him more and going on climbing trips and meeting different communities was much more...