UKC

After many years fighting discomfort, popping heels out to take the pressure off I'm giving up and heading for total comfort.

La sportiva skwama comes up best in reviews, anybody use them, for true comfort how does sizing compare to normal hill boots, approach shoes? Are they really much wider. Note I'm currently in red chilli spirit.

In reply to ExiledScot:

Sharman evolv are pretty high volume. but if you want true comfort would recommend the unparallel UP Lace (NOT the low volume version), not at all aggressive but could walk in them all day and a really deep heel.

I find that when downsizing a big difference is how aggressive the shoe is as have used both of these shoes and downsize the same amount, however the UPlace are much comfier due to being non aggressive.

In reply to ExiledScot:

Well there's wide, and then there's wide... it's all down to individual shape so you'll need to try some on but you probably knew that. Scarpa Vapour V have worked well for me, and I'm currently getting on pretty well with EB Electrons. Cheap as chips (on special offer from the retailer with fruity hand appendages) and plenty good enough for my mediocre abilities.

In reply to ripper:

Yeah, I'll be trying on in the flesh. I'm trying to gauge how people feel about them. You often can really tell about stickies until you're stood on the 3rd or 4th stance two plus hours into a day. 

In reply to ExiledScot:

Skwamas are great, I’d suggest maybe too soft for comfort though? Depends what you like of course. 

Not a dissimilar fit to Scarpa Intinct VS’s which are XS Edge instead of XS Grip. Worth trying them on too.

In reply to ExiledScot:

Instinct vs in half a size down from shoe size works quite well, as they are wide and fairly straight and stiff enough to work even when a comfy size

The direct opposite is the veloce, ultra soft, very comfy even when tighter I find

In reply to ExiledScot:

Scarpa Quantix SF are true to size, fairly roomy and wide, and perform brilliantly. BUT the rubber doesn't last long- maybe 6-9 months if used 2-3 times a week.

In reply to ExiledScot:

I haven't tried La Sportiva shoes for a long time but they always used to be very uncomfortable for me, too narrow at the toe. Scarpa are mostly pretty good for wider feet in my experience.  Just go to a shop and try a bunch on.

In reply to ExiledScot:

Tenaya Masai are the most comfortable performance shoe I've tried. They look kinda narrow at first glance, but there's plenty of room for my wide-ish feet, with the lacing right down to the toe. Good value too. 

In reply to ExiledScot:

Thanks all for the tips, my choice has widened not narrowed, so half a day in a shop with a patient assistant could be the answer! 

In reply to ExiledScot:

Depending on the style of shoe you want of course but I have wide feet also and the Scarpa Generators have been a great shoe to wear all day. 

Worth a try on. 

In reply to ExiledScot:

Scarpa Instinct VSR

Ocun Ozone HV (apparently their bullit are wide too but not tried them)

la sportiva Otaki

i’ve heard the Evolv Shaman are wide but not tried them

In reply to ExiledScot:

Sportiva Qubo also accommodated my wide feet pretty well, went 1.5 sizes down from street shoes, on the advice of shop staff - I was skeptical but they were fine

In reply to ExiledScot:

Ocun do a specific wide fit shoe. I've never worn Ocun shoes but only ever heard good things about them!

https://www.ocun.com/product/ozone-hv3

In reply to ExiledScot:

I've got a wide forefoot, I've been using Instinct laces for sport/bouldering and TC Pros for trad, both very comfy and great shoes.  Multiple resoles and the uppers are still going strong.

The skwamas are soft boulder-orientated shoes, not sure they'd be best on routes where comfort comes into play, but each to their own.

I've tried to try on evolve shoes, shaman in my size, and couldn't get them on.  I also found the UP series to have a strange fit/feeling, I would def try some on to see if they suit you.

Scarpa have a very helpful diagram of their shoes in relation to foot shape/volume, worth a look:

https://world.scarpa.com/page/climbing-collection-structure

In reply to Euan McKendrick:

I’ve loved every pair of Ocun shoes i’ve had.
 

Devastated they stopped making the Oxi.

In reply to Twiggy Diablo:

That's good to hear!

In reply to ExiledScot:

My pennyworth would be to suuggest Otakis over the Skwamas, on the basis that their duel velcro opening is easier to get into than the elasticated cuff of the Skwama (built on the same last otherwise).

Scarpa Veloces are pretty wide and comfy, but also very soft, and weirdly bulbous in the heel. For something a bit firmer but less aggressive than the Sportiva shoes, and in addition to above suggestions, the new Evolv Defys seem pretty good - but astonishingly small for the given size

In reply to nufkin:

Thanks, my list keeps growing. 

In reply to nufkin:

-just to note Otakis are the stiffer XS Edge rubber. Good for small edges but less so for smearing

In reply to ExiledScot:

I´ve got very wide feet, and I´ve been using two versions of the La Sportiva Katana for years (resoling/replacing when necessary of course).

EU sizes here: my everyday size is 46; I have the Katanas with the velcro straps in 44 1/2 for everyday bouldering and climbing, 2 hours nonstop with them is no problem. Then I´ve got the laced version in 44, which has a more aggressive cut, for the hard stuff; I can manage about 30 min in them before I have to give my feet a rest. I´m really happy with both models.

They do take a while to break in, but being leather they stretch a bit and after a few sessions they´re perfect. Not talking high grades here; F6c/7a has been my max for the last few years.

In reply to ExiledScot:

I've got proper flipper feet and the ideal shoe for me was always the 5.10 Anasazi VCS. Thank goodness the Unparallel UP Rise VCS is pretty much the same thing. When the Unparallel were very hard to find I tried the Skwamas and Veloces and they were nowhere near as comfortable for my very wide feet. Never tired the Ocuns. In the UP Rises I take exactly the same size as my street shoe - but I no longer climb at all hard.

In reply to ExiledScot: while not answering the width issue some time spent punching your size info into the Bananafingers Shoe Calculator for the shoes you are considering is time well spent. I find it very helpful and accurate. There is also good info on width on both the Scarpa and Ocun websites. The Ocun stuff on foot shape is very helpful and often missed by many. If you understand your foot shape and buy accordingly it is easier to get that elusive good fit. In my own case the foot shape of Scarpa Instincts is too pointed and presses my big toe in painfully so I have to ensure shoes have a strong asymmetry eg the Boostic or, actually, the Skwama (both far more technical shoes that a Red Chili Spirit, but you’ll know that). So I would be basing any decision on foot shape rather than a review of a shoe which might be one person’s shape but not another’s. Good luck.

In reply to Neil Morrison:

Definitely agree that working out your foot shape irrespective of width is really important. 

The original Ocun Ozone + was great for wide feet and long 2nd and 3rd toes. Unfortunately the new HV model ruined it, with much less mid foot volume.

In reply to ExiledScot:

I have wide, asymmetric toes and narrow ankles, so find fitting shoes almost impossible. I'm currently on the Unparallel UP Laces (or whatever their plain laced option is called), after previously using the pre-Adidas velcro Anasazis for years. A bit stiffer and less precise than I'd like but they do. I bought the Masais as everyone raves about their comfort but I find them painful across the toe. I go for LV options but I'm not sure if none-LV exists in my size. Never got on with La Sportiva - personally I wouldn't bother. 

Never had any hope of anything more aggressive! 

In reply to ExiledScot:

I have small & wide Hobbit-like feet, and Morton’s Neuroma. Altra, super wide trainers for the approach, then it’s into Sportivas to climb. 
UK 5.5 trainers, Sportiva 37 performance and 37.5 all day.

Currently using Sportiva Women’s Skwama’s & Otaki‘s, perfectly resoled at Llanberis Resoles, and Men’s Katana velcros. 
 

5 routes on Castell Helen yesterday in a combo of these shoes, so I guess they work for me. Good luck in your search. 

In reply to ExiledScot:

Try the Scarpa Veloce Lace. They are my comfortable pair for that reason precisely.

In reply to JamieH:

Interesting, I'm no hobbit, but I do have wide feet and metatarsalagia, potentially needing room for arch/pad support in them.