/ REVIEW: Edelrid Giga Jul

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Edelrid GigaJul - basic set up Billed as the most versatile belay device ever, the Giga Jul is the latest in a long line of belay devices under the Jul label. After six months of use we give the verdict here, especially with a view to how it suits UK trad climbing.

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David Barlow 18 Jun 2019
In reply to UKC Gear:

So it looks like they're fixed the problem with the megajul that you need to re-feed the ropes to switch between manual and guide mode - great. However, how binary is the locking in guide mode when you need to release the rope - is it like most other guide mode belay devices in being either locked or not, or can you do a more gradual release like the DMM Pivot?

snoop6060 18 Jun 2019
In reply to UKC Gear:

There is nothing funnier than watching someone attempt to ab down the verdon gorge with one of them mega jul things. Take some sandwiches and popcorn, you are gonna be there a while.

In reply to David Barlow:

As mentioned in the review, we didn't really test it that much in guide mode mainly because I haven't really found any need of guide mode in the climbing I have been doing. I discussed it with Edelrid though and they did comment that it locks up as most guide plates do and needs an extra crab to leverage the release. I have tried this in a simulated set up and it does function as expected although getting the extra crab into place is a little fiddly. I can't comment on whether this is similar to the DMM Pivot since I haven't got one of those to try.

Alan

In reply to snoop6060:

> There is nothing funnier than watching someone attempt to ab down the verdon gorge with one of them mega jul things. Take some sandwiches and popcorn, you are gonna be there a while.

I did use the Mega Jul and found it awkward for abseiling, particularly if you thread it the brake assist way. The Giga Jul is much better for this in fact it is as good as any standard tuber-style belay device on the market.

Alan

TobyA 18 Jun 2019
In reply to snoop6060:

> There is nothing funnier than watching someone attempt to ab down the verdon gorge with one of them mega jul things. Take some sandwiches and popcorn, you are gonna be there a while.

I guess there must be a lot of people at the Verdon who don't know what they're doing then which sounds kinda of terrifying! I've done the majority of my climbing for the last 5 years I guess now with a Mega Jul, including lots of abseiling. You can ab the normal way with a prussik if you want but the locking mode with an additional krab as a handle works great. Perfect for abbing to remove gear for example.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/climbing/belays/edelrid_mega_jul-6739

TobyA 18 Jun 2019
In reply to David Barlow:

I notice that you left a similar remark on my review of the Megajul a couple of years ago David. I completely see what you mean. I do use the Megajul in guide mode sometimes - if I'm happy with the belay, an obviously solid spike for example. I've done it quite a lot when winter climbing because you know your second is being safely protected even if you take your hand off the rope for a few seconds whilst you do all that belay management stuff such as putting on a belay jacket, getting the thermos out etc. And you are right that you need to re-thread the ropes if your partner leads through. It's just one of those things I've never really noticed as being a problem - you are right in that its an extra job to do, but I can't imagine it takes more than 15 seconds. 

Stuart the postie 18 Jun 2019
In reply to TobyA:

Hi,

A belated comment regarding Micro Jul. 

With bare hands, rock climbing, these are a versatile tool. A wee bit more thought required, depending what mode you want it to perform. The auto locking abseiling, with krab, is great, especially cragging if second can't remove your gear!

Having used it last winter, it doesn't perform well with mitts, belaying. I found with lack of dexterity, it grabbed, jammed frequently, making it difficult to pay/take in slack quickly. I returned to using my normal Reverso, during the colder months.

Regards

Stuart

datoon 19 Jun 2019
In reply to UKC Gear:

I had a Mega Jul for a couple of years, the wires wore through and the handle snapped.  This maybe due to abseiling on static ropes...

I wonder whether the wire on the handle will go the same...

One of the issues I had with it is that you have to unclip it completely when go in to guide mode as the breaking was the other way around.  It looks as though they have solved this.

Harald 20 Jun 2019
In reply to snoop6060:

I would not want to ab down the Verdon without my microjul and my 7.1 mm ropes. Been there done that several times ;-). Lobe the fact that it (almost) locks off by itself. Which comes in handy on freehanging abseils and in complex terrain scouting for the next belay (in steep alpine terrain). Takes a bit of practise, and is not as smooth as a regular tube-style device, but locking off by itself is both comfortable and safe. 

rachcrewe 01 Jul 2019
In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH:

I’m hoping Alan will lend me his gigajul to test some guide plating this summer. 😉


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