/ Foot cramp - rock shoe thoughts

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ColinD on 14 Jun 2013
Hi all, recently; last 12 months or so I've noted I'm getting cramp in the outside edge of my feet. Can be first route or within seconds, not just at the crux; hardly ever in fact ;) and mainly on the left, but worst on the less frequent right. I climb enough to care about my feet placements, but not well enough to apportion failure/blame on them.

Anyway initially I put it down to age; 38, diet, having climbed since late teens. But then I grabbed an older and smaller pair of shoes and didn't get any cramp. Back to back testing, reveals cramp, relived by swapping to this older shoe, swap, it returns randomly...

Old shoes are green 5.10's in size 9.0, street shoe is 44, 9.5ish, right foot is bigger 1/4size.

Worst offenders are 5.10 whites in 9.5, brought as a replacement for the greens as I was doing more edgy climbing and could not get into the 9.0's, initially fine, now almost instant pain. Then I brought a pair of scarpa's 9.5's vapours and they have been ok, except recently not so; mid life point. So moving away from pain is gain (extreme tightness), it seems the slightly larger shoe, while slightly comfier and more flexible is leading to issues, I like to think my feet are fairly strong. I don't think; so not blaming, it's all shoes though!

I've done some testing, but can't pin it down, that is other tight shoes hurt like hell but don't cramp. I'm fortunate to have been able; in the past, to purchase far too many shoes. Different times now and with shoes from evolve, 5.10, scarpa to la sportiva in the garage, I can't makes sense of what a good fit is anymore, understanding all our feet are different.

I've had over the years pairs of shoes that 'won't stretch' be easily worn with socks, or will give a little to be as tight today as they were months ago. So I'm loosing faith, with shoes changing all the time, how can anyone truly know? It was easy with ace and ninja's...

For one last bit of evidence, I have a 1st gen pair of 5.10 browns in 8.5, a right custard to get on, but no cramp signs at all. Sadly this last week or so I'm getting minor cramp wearing my greens while bridging 5a/b

Clearly one view is, "I should just buy more greens and eat more greens", also aware they are finished by hand so all differ. But I want to understand why, as my feet will be changing and greens might not always be the right fit.

At this point I'm trying to understand why my foot cramps, I get no cramps in other muscles/areas.

Thanks for reading, look forward to ideas/responses.
alasdair19 on 15 Jun 2013
In reply to ColinD: had a bit of mild.cramp in past with new shoes it went away but I don't know whether stronger or the shoes stretched. I've.been get tight shoes of after every pitch. Has the frequency of climbing decreased? I replaced vapour lace amazingly uncomfortable until I cut.My.toe nails!

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