UKC

Im trying to make a home made screamer ive had afew failed attempts which havent even passed the boulder wall test (if you know where i live that will make sense). now i have a couple of versions im happy with.
Does anyone know how much force a screamer will take before it breaks? the ones i have made so far will happily take body weigth without slipping but im not sure how strong to make them.

Thanks
Harry






(im not a troll)

In reply to naffan:

The only ones I have used where designed to rip at 10kN and limit the forces to the user at 6kN max. This was used as a staff member in an areal park so not quite the same use as what you need however.

In reply to naffan:
It depends on the application, aid screamers are normally around 2.2kN, fall arrest and via ferrata ones quite a bit higher in the 4 to 6kN region.
For normal climbing around 3kN would be as useful as it gets as the force is anyway limited by the belayer.

I was thinking of making some with 3 mm accessory cord. Loops increasing in length by 5 cm each time say 5 loops (5cm, 10cm, 15cm, 20cm, 25cm) then a 30cm quickdraw.

10kn is a massive load and would be pretty useless in a trad situation, My smallest wires are 2kn and the DMM ripstopes are designed to go at 2kn to protect marginal placements.

How are you making them?

What are you making them for?

In reply to kilner: Im trying to make them to be used on ice screws and marginal gear placements so 10Kn would be far too heavy.

I have tied a few 8 alpine butteryflys on some 6mm cord and then thread 7mm courd through the loops. if you thread each butteryfly more than once and pull the 7mm cord it starightens out leaving the butterfly like a prussik. the top krab has the 6mm and 7mm cord attached to it and the bottom one just has the 7mm cord. i have pulled slack out from the 7mm cord at the top.

if that made no sense im not surprised. i will put a picture up

In reply to naffan: or rather 10kn would be far too higher force.

In reply to naffan:

Here's some ideas for you, some of which appear to have been marginally succesful (with a HUGE emphasis on 'marginally'!):
http://www.kakibusok.plus.com/Equipment/index.htm

It's not my work by the way, it's the website of someone that used to post on here, I'm not sure whether they still do. They were trying to do exactly the same thing as you, home-made screamers.

In reply to kilner:


I tried that a few years back with 2mm. No noticeable difference in fall comfort (my only 'measure' of effectiveness). No loops broke! 3mm will work pretty much like a quickdraw.

jk

In reply to naffan: once i have a finished, tested design i will be able to make it look abit neater

In reply to naffan:

Like to see you set off up a route with that lot clipped to your harness!

In reply to naffan:

The amount of time and cost of the cord you must have spent on that, you could have just bought a screamer

In reply to Derek O:
Via ferrata ones by Petzl are 5kn I think, (small people don't really deploy them).
On the Petzl site you can read the technical notices of their product to check.

In reply to Derek O: i had most of the cord already and the krabs so it wasnt too bad. also buying a screamer would be far too easy and its the summer so i have to have something to do whilst its raining

In reply to naffan: tested the screamer at the wall today. it works a treat. best clip drops ive ever done. it is also now in a smaller, more compact form but will look abit neater later tonight.