UKC

glacier approaches - approach shoes and crampons

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 jussy 14 Jul 2009
I am heading over to climb for a week in Chamonix this summer, with a plan to climb around the Envers des Aiguilles, and do a load of the long rock routes.

We are trying to decide on the best footwear for the approaches along the mer de glace... due to ryanair wweight restrictions, we are trying to go lightweight as possible...

Is it ok to wear a good pair of approach shoes with the really lightweight crampons like these: (Kahtoola microspikes)

http://www.kahtoola.com/microspikes.html
Anyone used them? What are they like?

Or do most people wear full on mountain boots with proper crampons?

Thanks!
 Petarghh 14 Jul 2009
In reply to jussy: ryanair dont weigh the passenger... so wear your mountain boots on the plane?
 Mr Lopez 14 Jul 2009
In reply to jussy: Best tip above. Wear your boots on the plane like we all do.
That failing, approach shoes are sort of fine in snow approaches if you know what are doing, though your ankles will be constantly at stake and your feet will be wet and cold even before you start the climb, not forgetting you'll put on the same cold and wet shoes in the descent when you are tired and everything is already a discomfort.
In a dry glacier like the Mer de Glace your ankles will almost guaranteed be sprained if you wear crampons on shoes. I personally don't wear crampons in dry glaciers even when i'm wearing boots.
 JTM 14 Jul 2009
In reply to jussy:

Can't think of a reason not to use approach shoes and compatible crampons. Approaches from the hut are relatively short so no real worries if they get wet. Choose your routes with regard to the steepness of the approach. I think I used approach shoes / trainers on my first visit, but have no recollection as to what I used as crampons...
 Mr Lopez 14 Jul 2009
In reply to jussy: Oooops, i didn't click on the link. I know what you mean know... They could do in a smooth glacier, but the Mer de Glace is very grooved and rough. Also, to access the Envers area climbing and hut you'll most likely have to make your way through snow.

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