UKC

Gloves for winter lead

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 Samseabass 18 Oct 2018

Upgrading my glove system for some upcoming winter trips. I was sucked in by ME’s Super Couloir and Direkt glove options. They seem well designed for climbing in but like every other glove, are a tad baggy at the tip of my fingers. Does anybody else suffer with this issue and have you found decent set of gloves to mitigate this? I know dexterity and insulation is a toss up, but wondering if there are any other good choices out there to look consider. 

 a crap climber 18 Oct 2018
In reply to Samseabass:

I have very long slim fingers and have found Rab guide gloves to be pretty good. Sadly the new more expensive version isn't quite as good as the old, but still a good balance between insulation and dexterity. Can be a little bulky in the palm if you're really pushing yourself and your hands are getting a bit pumped, but in those cases I guess you'll have the same problem with any reasonably warm glove so would just have to sacrifice some insulation.

 nacnud 19 Oct 2018
In reply to Samseabass:

How about these and then get a warm mit to go over the top when you don't need the dexterity.

https://www.climbers-shop.com/10897952/products/outdoor-research-alibi-ii-g...

 NathanP 19 Oct 2018
In reply to Samseabass:

Mountain Equipment Super Alpine are by far the best winter leading gloves I have found. https://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/super-alpine-glove 

The OR Alibi are a bit short at the wrist for me. IIRC Mountain Hardware do something of that general type too. I'd suggest finding somewhere with these and go and try them on - it all depends on fit anyway.

 DaveHK 19 Oct 2018
In reply to Samseabass:

By far and away the best gloves for dexterity and grip are Skytec Argon.

They also have some major failings but then they do cost about 7 quid and in my experience even really expensive gloves tend to have major failings.

So pay your money and take your choice...

 HeMa 19 Oct 2018
In reply to Samseabass:

 

Start by finding gloves that fit...

I haven't (or have been too cheap to buy them Hestra Ergo Grip OutDry Dexterity Shorts (https://hestragloves.com/sport/fi-fi/gloves/mountaineering/30850-ergo-grip-...) that well, fit like a *glove* .

So I use OR gloves, sizes smaller than my finger lenght would deem (to get the right amount of fabrik  around the knuckles).

But lately I've used a lot skinnier gloves, as in un-insulated cheaper gloves whilst leading and then big fat belay mitts for belay duties (oh, and always carry spare climbing gloves, in total generally 2 pairs, one on and one inside the jacket to stay warm & dry up). Seeems to work out where I live...

Scotland was however a tad different, while actually warmer also a lot more moisture hence a nagging cold feeling all the time.

 Sharp 19 Oct 2018
In reply to Baron Weasel:

You've just recomended possibly the baggiest fingered gloves you can find, they also don't have boxed fingers or precurved palms which means a fold of fabric at the tip of your fingers and a bulky crease of leather in your palm. I know they're the cool kids glove of choice but the op did specifically ask for gloves without baggy fingers at the tip. The snoshepperd gloves are a robust and warm choice and ideal for when you're on easy ground or well within your comfort zone but you sacrifice dexterity for longevity and warmth. Hence being the guides glove of choice, perfect for moving slowly on easy ground with clients day in day out.

Samseabass - its difficult for anyone to recommend a glove that will fit your fingers but if you're finding that the bulk of gloves don't suit your finger length then trying on some womens gloves in larger sizes might be worth a shot. The womens gloves Rab and ME do have distinctly shorter fingers than the mens versions. I have personally found OR gloves to be quite short fingered. The ME guide gloves seem to be shorter fitting than the rest of the ME range and they're cheap as well, although the finger linings aren't stitched in place so they have a habbit of ruffling when they get a little more worn. As Dave said the skytec argons are close fitting but they're not my cup of tea, although I hear they're great for working in freezer rooms. There's really no substitute for going somewhere that stocks a big range of gloves and trying them all on.

Post edited at 07:29
 asteclaru 19 Oct 2018
In reply to Samseabass:

I have the same problem as you, with gloves being too long at the fingertips so there's loads of extra material that gets in the way. So far, the best fitting gloves I have found are from Black Diamond, namely the Pursuit and the Glissade (have a pair of each).

I don't do any winter climbing yet, so don't know how well suited they are for that, but I think they strike a good balance between warmth and dexterity (they kept me warm in some pretty grim conditions during the Beast from the East last winter in Scotland) and you can still do stuff like put your crampons on, do screwgates up, work rucksack buckles etc.

 pass and peak 19 Oct 2018
In reply to Samseabass:

Go to shop, try them on buy the ones that fit! I also have short fat fingers with large palm, the only make that fit me are from Black Diamond, I've been using the BD Guides for the last couple of years, but by god their expensive. I also always now take BD mercury mitts stuff them inside my jacket and swap over at belays on the very cold days, its why I look fat on all my winter photo's!! This year I'm going to experiment with slightly thinner lead gloves on more technical routes to get the dexterity, swapping for mitts at the belays. Now if you think this is all getting a bit expensive, think how quickly the pounds add up when you start dropping Ice screws? Dexterity can be worth paying for! BTW Mercury mitts are cheap on here if you trust the site!!! https://www.trekkinn.com/outdoor-mountain/black-diamond-mercury-mitts/13576...

OP Samseabass 19 Oct 2018

Thanks for all the suggestions, I’m aware fit is person specific. The OR gloves have been mentioned a couple of times and look good. They appear to have a finger length that looks more natural, as opposed to all one length/square like the ME ones I mentioned.  

In reply to Samseabass:

> Upgrading my glove system for some upcoming winter trips. I was sucked in by ME’s Super Couloir and Direkt glove options. They seem well designed for climbing in but like every other glove, are a tad baggy at the tip of my fingers. Does anybody else suffer with this issue and have you found decent set of gloves to mitigate this? I know dexterity and insulation is a toss up, but wondering if there are any other good choices out there to look consider. 

I find any glove that isn't a bit baggy at the finger tips will result in cold finger tips although how baggy is too baggy is hard to define.

 JWTM 19 Oct 2018
In reply to Samseabass:

Depending on route and conditions - ME Super Alpine for dexterity and BD Punishers for a bit of knuckle protection and warmth for me 

 angry pirate 20 Oct 2018
In reply to Samseabass:

If you get on with the Rab fit, I have found that the baltoro softshell gloves to be pretty good. Though I did get a pair of the Rab Vengeance gloves last season and they have been brilliant! They use the Outdry liner so they don't have taping in the fingers and give a good close fit.

 Alex Riley 20 Oct 2018
In reply to angry pirate:

I use ME super alpines for leading, they are really good (but won't last forever).

I had a look at the new alpkit range the other day, they look really nice and are fairly reasonably priced. Definitely some dexterous options there.

OP Samseabass 20 Oct 2018
In reply to angry pirate:

Did you find the vengeance needed to be swapped out for technical/steep pitches? I think I’ll give these a go, as I do get on with the Rab fit and have used Baltoros in the past. 

 angry pirate 20 Oct 2018
In reply to Samseabass:

No, they were something of a revelation: normally I'd use the baltoros for leading and switch to some icefall gloves if it was proper gipping or I was seconding. This worked well until they inevitably wetted out.

The Vengeance have loads of dexterity, are possibly even less insulated than the baltoros and can be worn pitch after pitch. I do swap them for warmer belay gloves/mitts for belaying and shove them down the front of my shell to keep them warm for the next lead though.

I'd describe them as all the best bits of the baltoros mixed with the best bits of the icefall gloves but with none of the downsides. 

I picked mine up in the Rab sale so thought they were worth a punt bit but I'd replace them at full price. 

I only wear my baltoros now for Norwegian ice to save wearing the vengeance out too quickly!

 

 Mr Messy 20 Oct 2018
In reply to Samseabass:

Punisher for leading then swap for ME super couloir for belaying. Tuck which ever is not in use inside my jacket.

   


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