UKC

Has anyone used These gloves for winter climbing? Specifically the Guide, or Falt glove. I wondered if they would be too big/bulky for use with axes or when placing gear.

Thanks, Mart.

In reply to workblowschunks: Hey a fellow convert! I've been banging on about these for a while now and have been using them for the last 3 years. They've been very reliable and fairly warm - although not immune from the dreaded hotaches. They dry out well enough and I have a spare pair of liners (which I rarely need). I have, this year in Italy, gone through the thumb. This was because the the gloves got soaking wet as I was standing under a thawing icefall, when I completing the final ab off the route I negletcted the use my backup prussik (due to laziness) so didn't have the prussik between the glove and the rope. They have gone back to Sweden for a repair and Hestra UK have loaned me a pair of HeliSki gloves until I get them back! How about that for service - the Ray Mears service has been exemplary. So, I have found them great for routes up to WI5 and UK grade 5. I am, however, switching to BD Torque gloves for leading this year. I will still carry the Hetsra gloves for seconding and belaying. A great, all round winter glove which will, if looked after, will faithfully serve you for many years. Any more questions please ask, Dave S

In reply to Dave Sarkar:

Hey Dave thats great thanks. Its good to know you have actually used them for climbing as opposed to just winter hill walking or general cold weather use. I first became aware of these years ago when Ray Mears started using them openly and have 'nearly' bought them on several occasions. The service you mention Woodlore giving you sounds Phenomenal and makes a change from the usual guff.
I need new gloves and couldnt decide between the Falt glove or the Marmot work glove but you may have helped to make up my mind, I think. One question though. why the swap to the BD toque glove?
Thanks, Mart.

In reply to workblowschunks: Good question, I find that I'm taking the gloves off to fiddle in awkward bits of gear, etc. It's just me as my mate also has a pair and he doesn't do that. So I'm trying a new system late this season. I have used the gloves all winter this year - I'm a bit of a gear freak and am always looking for a better glove system! I have huge box of gloves in the loft. The fact that I've used the Hestra ones for 3 years though says a lot. I'll still use them for most of my winter climbing/activities, just using the BD ones for leading - until my hands get too cold. For your info - Hestra said that the hole had gone through because I'd been too generous with the wax. I've also got an old piece of thick leather that I wrap around the prussik for muliple abs (on Euro ice,etc), this will solve that problem. Not standing under what was in effect a tap will also help! They've not charged me for the repair though! All the best. Dave S

In reply to workblowschunks: Another vote for Hestra. I got two pairs, one chunky for skiing and seconding/rapping/belaying the other thinner (between BD Punisher and BD Torque), for leading. They´re still going strong after two years. Never climbed with Falt glove but I suspect it to be to chunky for leading. If you have decent warm hands you could look at their cross country selection.

On the other hand both my fancy 100£ retail Patagonia and BD Punisher (I bought them on sale though) didnt even last a season. The Punishers are in the post we´ll see if a get a new pair.

In reply to workblowschunks:

Yep, the Hestras are good. Dave Pegler down on the South Coast (prolific ice-climbing lunatic/gear shop owner/trip arranger) was recommending them a couple of years back when I bought mine, and if they're good enough for him, they're good enough for the rest of us. They've worn well enough for me (a few weeks ski-touring too, which can be hard on gloves.)

For complete dexterity in warmer conditions try the Black Diamond whatsit thingummies, but for winter mountains/climbing (perhaps not stupid cold need-your-mitts weather) in general the Hestras.

Y

In reply to Yanchik:
Right then. Thank you all for the input. I have other gloves from various manufacturers but I'm Defo getting some Hestra now. Has anyone experimented with using other gloves underneath the outer glove, or are the inners ok for fiddely stuff?

Regards, Mart.

In reply to workblowschunks: I've tried several types of glove as a liner. But there is often a baggy feeling between the two. I also use these:

http://www.outdoordesigns.co.uk/products_gloves_tyrol.html which are cheaper than the Falt liners, but excellent in very cold conditions.

Buy a glove for leading the harder pitches and belay/second in the Falt. It works well. Dave S

In reply to Dave Sarkar:
Ta very muchly. Thats most helpfull.

Mart.