UKC

So I'm currently in the market for a new pair of tools. I've sold some stuff and I could also sell my current collection of tools (or parts thereof) after replacement. 

My situation: I'm a recent dad and I live quite far away from the mountains, so realistically I will get to swing tools maybe once or twice a year. Current grade is roughly WI4 and I also enjoy mellow alpine ice and snow (AD/D). I won't be able to put in the miles to climb much harder in the near future, and that's okay. 

My current quiver: A set of Black Diamond Venoms, a set of Charlet Moser Quarks and a set of Charlet Moser Quark Ergos (and a walking axe but that's not part of this discussion).

What I'm looking for: something to cover a lot of bases. Something that will get me up WI4 comfortably, but if possible also usable on (approach to) alpine stuff like the Chère Couloir or similar. 

I think my main contenders are the Petzl Nomic, Petzl Quark and CAMP X-all Mtn. I'm personally leaning towards either the Quarks or the CAMPs, as these seem great do it all tools and great upgrades from my Venoms and Quark 1s, whereas the Nomic might be quite similar to my Quark Ergos (even though lightyears more advanced!). 

Between the CAMPs and the Quarks I'm not sure. The CAMPs, on paper, look like better ice tools, but the Quarks look like better alpine tools... 

What does the UKC hive mind say? 

I love my Quarks.

Any chance you can find them in a shop and 'have a go' with your gloves on?

It would mean a day out but yes, for the Quarks and Nomics this would be possible. The Camps are sadly not sold in my local market. 

My two cents: I had a go with the previous version of the X-All Mtns with the fixed upper pinkie rest. They are fine- they are decent to climb with, but don't really stand out among similar axes (unlike the Camp X-Dreams, which are awesome compared to the competition). They might be slightly better than quarks on steeper stuff, but I think the gains would be pretty marginal. I reckon the quarks will be quite a lot better for alpine stuff though.

Okay thanks, that's two votes for the Quarks so far! 

Your current tools are not holding you back.

Spend the money on the child

Hahaha that’s the kind of solid and rational advice this forum is known for

He’s currently not lacking a thing but I’ll take it under consideration! 

Nomics are 25% off ATM with banana fingers plus a further 10% discount code used at basket 

If you can find a set of old Quark hand rests / horns get them and make your existing Quirks leashless. One of my climbing partners uses these all the time. (He's happy on Vs and has climbed VIs with them for context. And it's not the axes stopping him climb harder.) 

I’ll give it a go, thanks! 

I'm by no means an expert, but I've been looking at the DMM Apex.  They seem pretty capable all-rounders and they were good enough for Marc Andre Leclerc.  Would like to hear how they compare to the others mentioned above.

Look similar to the Camps I mentioned. Can’t find them in stock anywhere outside of the UK though. 

I have them, they're solid and bombproof, I like them. A little heavier than the Quarks or All-Mountains under discussion. Caveat - I don't climb hard. Have found them fine for using more walking axe style in the mountains - they are curved but still have a decent spike and I feel okay plunging them on steeper ground. Depends a bit on your height I guess, I'm about 180cm or so, so any taller might start getting a bit awkward.

I've met at least two different British Mountain Guides who used Apexes as their daily work horse leading WI4+ ice etc. and they seemed fine with them. The second trigrest is removeable as well if you want a more streamlined handle.

Singing Rock Bandits also an option - very similar to Quarks and a little heavier/more basic, but cost effective and seem well built.

Yeah those also sound interesting, especially considering the price. 

If you carry and use pegs that might focus your decision because most of the modern hammers are utter shite at driving in pegs......

Apexes are my main climbing axes, and they are a joy. I love them, particularly for mixed. They are bombproof and do everything well, particularly in terms of Scottish winter. They are about as technical as they come without a drop handle, and I would choose them over quarks, x-all mtns, or any of BD's offerings for scotland. I recently bought a second hand pair of switches (because they were cheap and I couldn't find a pair of X-Dreams) after wishing I had a drop handle on some grade VII ish mixed but will continue to use the apexes for most climbing. However, they are pretty heavy and difficult to plunge in snow, so I wouldn't necessarily choose them for everything. I think other axes make better options for the OP's requirements.

Hey everyone, 

After some deliberation I've ordered a pair of Quarks. I feel like they fit my ambitions the best, while also running the least risk of disappointment and reselling somewhere along the road. I'll just have to buy some pick weights and pur'ice picks some day.

Thanks for your input everyone!