/ PRODUCT NEWS: Kalymnos Rockfax - Pre-order Special Offer
You mention that some of the proceeds will go to the local bolt fund, will this be equal to the proceeds from the local guide book?
Just for clarification purposes, is there a complete list of crags included within this guide and is this a selective or definitive guide for those crags ?
> You mention that some of the proceeds will go to the local bolt fund, will this be equal to the proceeds from the local guide book?
I don't know since the amount donated from the local guidebook is not public information. There is a figure claimed here of €5000 - http://climbkalymnos.com/bbpress/topic.php?id=6222 - although that is what has been spent, not the proportion from the book. I have also heard other figures, and the island received a massive grant from the EU for rebolting recently as well.
Based on our usual figures and what Steve McDonnell has told me about the Glaros Bar Bolt Fund, it will be a major contributor to that fund over the next few years, and I am confident that we will easily make up any shortfall.
> Just for clarification purposes, is there a complete list of crags included within this guide and is this a selective or definitive guide for those crags ?
I have extended the list of crags on the Rockfax book page https://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/kalymnos/
The book describes all the routes on the crags included which is pretty much all of them at the time of writing although I think there may be a couple of hard caves that we haven't got in there.
Thanks for that Alan, but being a bit dim I'm still not sure which crags are included, for example, does the Grand Grotte area includes the crags to the left 'Afternoon' etc and to the right 'Panorama and Stankill' ? There's mention of Sea Breeze but not Belgium Chocolates and what's the Secret Garden called these days and is it included ? etc etc etc, is there a definitive (sic) list ?
I'm not trying to be deliberately obtuse but would just like to know 'exactly' which crags are included before I purchase it to find some of my favourites missing.
> Thanks for that Alan, but being a bit dim I'm still not sure which crags are included, for example, does the Grand Grotte area includes the crags to the left 'Afternoon' etc and to the right 'Panorama and Stankill' ? There's mention of Sea Breeze but not Belgium Chocolates and what's the Secret Garden called these days and is it included ? etc etc etc, is there a definitive (sic) list ?
Are you looking at the right page? The full list is there now and includes all the crags you mention. Basically it includes everything pretty much and I am sure your favourites will be there.
Emborios Area - Olive Tree, Styx Main, Styx Right, François Guillot, Emborios Portal, Kreissaal, Kastri, Sophie, Paradise Garden, Palace Area, Thalassa, Baby House, Palace
Sikati Area - Sikati Cave, Sikati Beach, Palionisos, Secret Garden, Red Wall, Beach, Bay
Skalia Area - Elephantslide, Prophitis Andreas, Skalia Pillar, Skalia Balcony, Skalia Cave, Ghost Kitchen, Atlantis
Galatiani Area - Cave, Reservoir Dogs, Calcite Cave, Galatiani Calcite Cave, Black Forest
Noufaro Area - Eagle Wall, Magic Wall, Noufaro
Arhi Area - Dalle à Patouch, Belgian Chocolates, Arhi, Balcony Helvetia, Regensburg, White Wine Wall
Sea Breeze Area - Great Canyon, Pocket Wall, Sea Breeze, Star Wars
Arginonta - Sector Holiday, Infrared Wall, Fire Wall, Red Wine Wall
Arginonta Skyline - Haut de Gorge, Ovoland, Little Verdon, Jägerwand, Piccalia
Arginonta Valley - Valley, Black Buddha
Summertime Area - Highlands, Local Freezer, Magoulias Wall, Summertime, Big Shadow, Nikoleta
Vathy Valley - Koukouvas, Metochi Pyramid, Milianos Crag, Milianos Cave, Je t'aime, Julian, Rocklands
Kasteli Area - Dolphin Bay, Kasteli
North Cape Area - Apollo, Peter, Little Italy, North Cape
Odyssey Area - School, Odyssey, Olympic Wall Area, Ocean Dream, Sector Nemo, Olympic Wall
Iliada Area - Iliada, Afghan Corridor, Muses
Spartacus Area - Jurassic Park, Three Stripes, Spartacus, Spartan Wall, Afternoon
Grande Grotta Area - Grande Grotta, Panorama
Masouri Area - Stankill, Ivory Tower, Kalydna, Iannis, Coeur d'Armeos, Poets, White Shark, Zeus
Gerakios and Trois Ilots - Sector Spitfire, Gerakios, Gerakios - Via Ferrata, Trois Ilots
Symplegades Area - Hump Piste, Pyramid, Ourania, Symplegades
Chora Area - Pothia Area, Psili Riza , Prophet Ilias, Dodoni, Saint George
Saint Photis - Austrians, Monastery, The Chapel, The Cave, Spiders
Telendos - Princess Canyon, Crystal Cave, Crescendo Cave Area, Scylla and Charybdis, Inspiration, Titan Towers, Prometheus, Snow White, Three Caves, North Face, Underworld, Saint Constantine, Miltiadis, Eros, The Stronghold, Irox, Pescatore, Glaros, Lambda,
Sorry Alan, I did say that I was bit dim ;-) I'm putting it down to a browser cacheing issue ! Although I suspect I may be looking at the wrong page as I still see the short list (following the link in your post of 14:03) rather than you much more comprehensive one.
However, not to worry, the long list seems to include just about everything so all is good!
I think it must be a caching issue.
Terrible timing for me heading out there on the 3rd May, any chance you will get the books earlier?
> Terrible timing for me heading out there on the 3rd May, any chance you will get the books earlier?
We may get them before 7 May since that sometimes happens. However I doubt very much it will be before 3 May.
I hope you have checked the descriptions thoroughly for all of the climbs. We used the Rockfax guidebook when we there last April and had a really potentially serious outing on the telendos north face. It was really clear that anyone who had written the description had not climbed either of the two routes in question. It definitely posed questions as to whether the authors are just making up descriptions. Similar issue with chamonix guidebook last summer, but I digress.
The approach description for the north face was total bollocks which should have had alarm bells ringing. But the route descriptions were criminal with “crack me up” which to be fair did have the caveat “Don’t expect a sport route” but it assuring it was bolted and you didn’t need trad gear. It was runout, greasy Climbing (fair enough) but the top section of the first pitch relied on tat which was all perished. Easyish Climbing with rock best described as a bad case of psoriasis, very snappy, all threads perished so no lowering off any of them, nevermind falling, the holds were snapping off left right and centre, showering the belayer with shit. The whole line was greasy and it was given 3 stars in the guidebook. No way anyone who had even looked at it would have given it 3 stars it’s the drainage line for the mountain, we only touched it as we had 1/2 day epic finding it. Total shite, we bailed from first belay.
Our mates on the 3 star line next to us didn’t. Rockfax guide said they could top out. It was clear they couldn’t after a 10mish runout looking for bolts and then the subsequent downclimb. Finished with an abseil which had a traverse in it. Of cause when we finally saw the local guide book it informed us you can’t top out and the dedicated abseil bolts have been put in to prevent you doing the traverse on abseil. The crack me up line was given 1 star and alluded to its dangers.
If either of these routes are included in the full guidebook release (i won’t be buying it) I would love to hear the explanations from the author for the descriptions. Otherwise all I can assume is they don’t climb all the routes included, even when they are at accessible grades, so where are they getting new descriptions from?
I am pretty sure it was you or your climbing partner that contacted us about Telendos North Face routes and we amended the description based on the excellent feedback - thanks for that, it is really helpful when people take the trouble to give feedback.
Our original information I believe came from some slightly over-enthusiastic first ascensionists.
I apologise for the tone of the last message. I re-read it this morning and it was perhaps slightly more aggressive than I really intend.
Thanks for the reply. Glad to know the descriptions were updated preventing anyone else from having an epic. It was our partners that contacted you but I had forgotten that detail.
In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH: I don't know since the amount donated from the local guidebook is not public information.....
Some recent additional information on funds (and work) provided by the local guidebook can be found here:
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