UKC

Katana Rubber Problems

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 AndyM-LVB 09 Jan 2009
I found the following post on this site with many people complaining about the new Katanas:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=332604

I bought a pair of Katanas a couple of months ago, and have now noticed that there is already a hole in the toe area and the rubber is breaking up underneath...

I really like the shoe as it fits really well, and feels great to climb in - does anyone know if this problem has been resolved yet before I buy another pair?
If not, are all Sportiva shoes like this or are any of their other shoes any better?

Thanks.
 rob1 14 Jan 2009
In reply to AndyM-LVB:

Ive sent bak 2 pairs of katannas for this reason but more for the sole coming off at the toe than a hole forming, both my muira's and barracudas are fine.
 petellis 14 Jan 2009
In reply to AndyM-LVB:

I'm surprised about this to be honest becase I've had quite the reverse experience. I've had a pair of Barracudas and a pair of muiras. Both lasted well and in my opinion the XSV rubber is stickier than 5.10 stuff.

The barracudas are probably the best made shoes I've ever had and they're still very good after their second re-sole.

Are you scuffing your feet alot? they're quite an assymetric shoe and I find that causes me to drag my toes more than a straighter shoe.

As and aside I don't like these sort of threads. If you think you've got a product thats not up to the job take it back to the shop rather than whinging on here
Bob kate bob 14 Jan 2009
In reply to petellis:
Ah, but from all the reports on UKC and from all the Katana wearers I have met, it is only the Katanas and it is only the new version (sole has yellow disk with logo on it rather than printed sticker).

>As and aside I don't like these sort of threads. If you think you've got a product thats not up to the job take it back to the shop rather than whinging on here

Yep, that only gets you so far. Had a shop unwilling to replace a pair after 1 months wear.

Just sent a link to this thread to La Sportiva [email protected] to give them a chance to reply.

Will have to wait and see.
 Ramon Marin 14 Jan 2009
In reply to Bob kate bob:

They'll never reply, there are very lame I have to say. I have had bad experiences with them. And the UK reps are no better, they might reply, yes, but they will come up with some sort of excuse for sure. Otherwise they would have to replace all the Katanas that are send to them for that problem, that's a lot of shoes.
 d8vehinton 14 Jan 2009
In reply to AndyM-LVB:

Unfortunately Katanas are great shoes but wear very very quickly. Probably why you can often pick them up greatly reduced last 2 pairs I got for £35.

However Muiras are superb, excellent on limestone and really last well.

Strange!
 rob1 14 Jan 2009
In reply to petellis:
> (In reply to AndyM-LVB)
>
> I'm surprised about this to be honest becase I've had quite the reverse experience. I've had a pair of Barracudas and a pair of muiras. Both lasted well and in my opinion the XSV rubber is stickier than 5.10 stuff.
>
As i say both my muiras and barracudas are excellent

> The barracudas are probably the best made shoes I've ever had and they're still very good after their second re-sole.
>
> Are you scuffing your feet alot? they're quite an assymetric shoe and I find that causes me to drag my toes more than a straighter shoe.

I'm not particulalry scuffing any more than normal and i dont use them at the wall as they do wear quickly (cheapo shoes for this)
>
> As and aside I don't like these sort of threads. If you think you've got a product thats not up to the job take it back to the shop rather than whinging on here

I'm not whinging and as i said i sent two pairs back after some use and they accepted there was a problem!

That said i only climb in sportivas due to the excellent fit and performance and i would try another pair of kattanas as they are excellent to climb in.

 Tuborg 14 Jan 2009
In reply to AndyM-LVB:

> I really like the shoe as it fits really well, and feels great to climb in

Every silver lining has a cloud. I thought exactly the same about the katanas until the toe went after less than two months. My feet were actually beginning to return to normal aswell (after six months in some 5.10 anastazis or whatever they're called)

Took mine back to the shop and got the full nose up treatment. He seemed to suggest that I've been wearing them too tightly which had caused them to split. Strange seeing as it was on their recommendation that I really pack my feet in when they sold them to me (saying that La Sportiva stretch a lot).

Either way, as much as I like rock shoes, particularly new ones, I'm starting to get a bit pissed off with the cost and don't really trust any advice about them from shop owners. Feels like they're just selling products at the end of the day. Just feels a bit of a shame because climbing should be cheap in theory (once you've got your rack).
 sdavies141 15 Jan 2009
I am a shop worker and i can honestly say the following: Katanas fit is challenging, I am a 47 and choose to wear katanas in 43.5 or 44, a collegue who has size 48/49 feet wears 45 in katanas. They do stretch a lot and if you have long toes you have to buy them small to compensate for this. Further more the sizing is about a size off from most other manufacturers, eg. a 45 in 5.10 may be a 44 in katanas. but this is an approximation ...... toe length and foot shape are critical.

As for returns, any shoe that shoes signs of manufacturing default such as: where the side of the sole has been filed away too thin, stitching coming apart, sole delaminating etc. after up to about 2 months most manufacturers will either repair or replace the shoes. ( Boreal / evolv are particularly good, they have never not repaired a shoe i have sent back!) furthermore If the shoes is faded or has serious signs of use (sweaty feet often cause this more speedily) then the manufacturer can often refuse to repair it.

My advise if you are returning a shoe due to manufacturing default then wash them in the sink in warm water and make them look "as new" as possible this normally helps.

Thats my speech over.
Helen Heanes 19 Jan 2009
In reply to ramon marin martinez: Next time you want to slander someone I suggest you do it to their face, slagging people off who you may not have met on forums such as this is cowardly and childish.

As a rep for Lyon Equipment the UK distributors of La Sportiva I take exception to your comments. I suggest if you have a genuine grievance you take it up with us via the point of purchase and refrain from doing your dirty laundry in public.

Neal Heanes
Lyon Equipment Ltd (South West)
 bouldery bits 19 Jan 2009
In reply to Helen Heanes:

Next time your company provides a poor quality product do not blame the end user for airing they're grievances in a public way so as to stop others from making the same mistake. It is your suppliers incompetence which has caused you this issue. It would be far better for you to deal with the issue with the supplier rather than blame your customers,

Big Love
Oli Cowan, now not a La Sportiva customer.
 nealh 19 Jan 2009
In reply to bouldery bits: No you miss the point calling someone names on forums such as this is unhelpful, hurtful and against the posting guidelines, it also has nothing to do with customers with a grievance.There are proper ways to register a compaint and making personal attacks on those you do not know is not one of them.
 bouldery bits 19 Jan 2009
In reply to nealh:

A fair point. Will you be chasing up the issue?
Bob kate bob 19 Jan 2009
In reply to Helen Heanes: Though the person's post was not helpful in the least it would be good if you or someone at Lyon Equipment, and/or someone from la sportiva could give a reply to this thread.

For instance covering the items below
1) what to do when problems arise (especially if a retailer is questioning if it is usage or a fault)

2) how can people log these issues so that la sportiva can have a look at resolving issues in their manufacturing and/or design

3)let us know when la sportiva will stop doing the little impressions on their rubber, I am sure this is not helping when the impressions go over the edge of the sole.

If there is other further information that would also be useful, I am sure it will be most appreciated.
 snoop6060 19 Jan 2009
In reply to nealh:

May I ask who has been called names? Not to be funny, but you are hardly disproving the comments about the UK reps being unhelpful.
 nealh 19 Jan 2009
In reply to bouldery bits: we no doubt will pass on the points raised to La Sportiva in due course in the mean time any products returned are dealt with on a case by case basis, in reality the level of returns agaisnt the number of sales is really very very small and not sufficient to set off alarm bells
 nealh 19 Jan 2009
In reply to snoop6060: Maybe you like being referred to as lame?
 bouldery bits 19 Jan 2009
In reply to nealh:

How long is "in due course"???

I would like to be assured that the issue is resolved before I part with my hard earned for any La sportiva product - shame because I was looking at getting some Miuras (the Velcro ones) until I read this thread.
Thanks,

Oli Cowan
 nealh 19 Jan 2009
In reply to Bob kate bob: If you have a problem with a product (any product) your consurner rights are clear your contract is with the point of purchase, who if not prepared to deal with it themselves should refer the problem back to their supplier who can assess the problem and act apon the behalf of the manufacturer. If your shop is singularly unhelpful you can contact the supplier direct, (in this case Lyon Equipment) give a full and honest description of the problem and it will be fairly assessed.
As UK distributor we do monitor returns and feedback from customers and retailers and pass this on to our suppliers, who in most cases, La Sportiva included are passionate about their product.

The issue of indents in the rubber Is one for Vibram the manufacterers of the rubber, not Sportiva. The embossing is a fraction of a millimeter and whilst not to everyone's taste is not significant in the overall life of the shoes(one bad scuff on a sharp hold will do far more damage).

Finally might I suggest that if you are at all concerned with the finish of a pair of shoes check for signs that they have not been properly finished off before you buy, (I wouldn't buy any shoe where the sole rand join didn't look perfect) also if the sole protrudes at all at the toe either don't accept them or sand them back before wearing them as this will oftern catch and cause the sole to come away from the rand with time and wear. This is generic advice which applies to any brand of rock shoe.
 MeMeMe 19 Jan 2009
In reply to nealh:

> Finally might I suggest that if you are at all concerned with the finish of a pair of shoes check for signs that they have not been properly finished off before you buy, (I wouldn't buy any shoe where the sole rand join didn't look perfect) also if the sole protrudes at all at the toe either don't accept them or sand them back before wearing them as this will oftern catch and cause the sole to come away from the rand with time and wear. This is generic advice which applies to any brand of rock shoe.


Shouldn't the manufacturer's quality control catch these problems?
It seems like poor service to rely on the customer to do so, especially when the problem might be something that is not readily apparent until a month after you've purchased them.


My current Katanas are fine and I've had them for ages and they've been great but I'm not keen on buying a pair that falls to bits and this thread hasn't particularly reassured me so I've just bought a pair of 5.10 velcros instead of another pair of Katanas.

 snoop6060 19 Jan 2009
In reply to nealh:

Well no, but you were not personally called anything.
 nealh 19 Jan 2009
In reply to MeMeMe: Absolutely and having visited the La Sportiva factory I can say their quality control is way above any other factory I have visited, however we are all human (I hope) and that is why company's such as us have an after sales dept. The measures I suggested were as I said generic. And of course finishing issues with any brand are a tiny fraction of their overall production. I can remember having to try 5 or 6 pairs of a certain shoe(supposedly all the same size) no name names mentioned just to find two that matched.

This whole thread has become something of a hurricane on a millpond, and having offered some useful tips and pointers I will not be contributing further, if any of you have any further issues you should be clear what you need to do
 nealh 19 Jan 2009
In reply to snoop6060: We (my collegues and I) were branded as Lame, not something I appreciate or something the poster can substantiate
 Dickie 19 Jan 2009
In reply to AndyM-LVB: Have a pair of Katana's about nine months now, dont climb that often (around once a week) but really like them and havn't had any problems with mine (yet, touch wood or rock :p) must be a different compound and/or glue?!

Noo idea but mine are still in one piece

Dickie
 bouldery bits 19 Jan 2009
In reply to nealh:

So, can you reassure me that if I purchase La sportiva boots which fail as a result of poor manufacturing the issue WILL be fixed at ZERO cost to me and that it is unlikely for such an issue to occur?

Thanks for taking part in the discussion, it is reassuring to know that a representative of Lyon equipment has spent time taking part in the discussion,

Oli
 kevin stephens 19 Jan 2009
In reply to nealh:

I have been a Katana fan for a few years, and usually have 2 pairs on the go; a tight one for sports climbing and a size up for Gogarth etc.

However I am a little put off my next replacements by the original comments in the original thread linked to the OP. It wouldn't be the first time that a shoe has lost its performance following an apparent manufacturing change.

Why not respond to (or pm) the person who started the original thread? Then come back to us with an authoritve re-assurance, or alterntaively get Sportiva to sort the problem.
Cheers
Kevin

 bouldery bits 21 Jan 2009
In reply to AndyM-LVB:

Gone quiet over here all of a sudden hasn't it?
Bob kate bob 21 Jan 2009
In reply to nealh: thank you for replying.

I will be contacting you (well who you work for) if there are any further boot failures that arn't resolved at the shop that they were purchased in.
Bob kate bob 21 Jan 2009
In reply to bouldery bits: Yep, but at least I have people I can now contact if it happens again, rather than hitting a brick wall.
OP AndyM-LVB 30 Jan 2009
In reply to AndyM-LVB:

I didn't realise this thread has so many replies, only just looked at it!

The general consensus seems to be that it's the new Katanas that have the "problem". It would just be nice to know if it is really is a problem or not. I understand that generally the better and stickier shoe rubber is, the shorter it's life is. The Katana is a really great shoe, so if it's just that they wear very quickly as a consequence of this - fine, I see no problem with this. But if it's a quality/manufacturing/design problem with the latest batch of Katanas - we need to be told!

Has anyone actually received/seen/heard an official statement from La Sportiva regarding this?

As it happens I've now replaced my Katanas with a pair of Miuras. So far I think they're great. I would definitely continue to buy Sportiva.
Vip1r 30 Jan 2009
In reply to AndyM-LVB:

Never had a problem with any of the Sportiva shoes i've had, whereas i have with other brands; including the fabled 5.10 Anasazis that alot of people seem to hold in such high regard on here.

A mate of mine who works in a gear shop has said that they've seen alot of customers bring shoes back where the rubber has worn away at the rand or the toe box. Invariably, he says, this is from beginners wearing them and dragging their feet up the wall between holds as opposed to precisely placing them...i'm inclined to agree.

As for Ramon branding Lyon staff as lame...have a look at your pictures:

a few of you out climbing with Neil Gresham...friend of yours is he?

Well done-you just tarred him with the "lame brush" as he works with Lyon as well and knowing Neil, i would say that he'd give exactly the same answer as Neal H has on here.
 bouldery bits 30 Jan 2009
In reply to Vip1r:

I Think he meant the supplier folks, not Neil who is sponsored by them.

Big love,
Me
Vip1r 30 Jan 2009
In reply to bouldery bits:
> (In reply to Vip1r)
>
> not Neil who is sponsored by them.

I didn't know that.

PS He also reps for them.

Big Love
Vip1r

 Jon Stewart 30 Jan 2009
In reply to AndyM-LVB: I can't be arsed to a) read this thread (not slagging it off, just don't have time and can't be arsed) or b) send mine back, but a was really pissed off when my lovely, comfy, sticky, technical shoes went through in about a week. Never buying Sportiva rockboots again - that'll learn'em.
 bouldery bits 31 Jan 2009
In reply to Vip1r:

Sorry, wrote sponsored when I meant paid!

Bigger love,

Me
X
ice.solo 31 Jan 2009
In reply to AndyM-LVB:
have had a set of katanas for 4 years now and no problems. actually amazed theyve lasted so long. only retired them end last summer after finding other boots that fitted better, but ill still wheel out the old katanas if i need a pair of trashing-boots.

still reckon the yin-yang velcro system beats anything else.
neil.....34 08 Feb 2009
In reply to ice.solo:

4 years, I am lucky to get 4 weeks out of mine
 Jmes 08 Feb 2009
In reply to neil.....34:

What are you doing to them?! I climb a lot. Maybe 4-5 times a week, and mine aren't showing much wear after two months.
neil.....34 10 Feb 2009
In reply to jmews:

i was kidding, This pair is 6 weeks old now, I found the tighter the shoe the less wear you get out of them,

I climb in font 5 times a week, the sandstone smears really wear out the rubber, and the little sharp grattons really dig in
 Fran 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Jon Stewart: what will you buy instead then? Scarpa use excactly the same rubber and five ten (onyx anyways) is even softer still, as is Boreal Quattro. Good Luck!
 daveyji 11 Feb 2009
In reply to Fran: I think it's a manufacturing problem, not just the ruber used.
My Katanas wore out on the left shoe after 50 hours use while the other shoe looked almost new.
They were returned to Lyon who eventually replaced them.
Interestingly the replacement pair are the older type before they changed the rubber used.
 daveyji 11 Feb 2009
In reply to daveyji: Actually, the new pair are the new style with softer rubber. Hmmm I wonder how these will go?
 Jon Stewart 11 Feb 2009
In reply to Fran: I've gone back to the trusty Scarpa visions. Love'em. I think that the Katanas wore out incredibly quickly because they've been made shitly, not because the rubber's rubbish. They actually climb ok, I use them indoors now, as they haven't "gone through" as such, they've kind of ruptured at the top of the big toe. Plus there's all sorts of peeling business going on at the toe itself. Rubbish, rubbish, rubbish. I was dismayed to see that ad/article thing about how great they are on here. I refute it thus: they're shit.

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