UKC

'Improve your climbing with Neil Gresham', it says on the DVD case. Part 1 covers Technique and Training, Part 2 is about Skills and Tactics for Sport and Trad. A group of climbers faced with a wet day in Mallorca, gave the two DVDs the once over.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=186

In reply to Alan James - UKC:
I want to watch them...but...but...watching Part Two will blow my onsight of both Right Wall and London Wall!!

:P

In reply to Alun:
...though the likely situation of me falling off both would have the same result...!

In reply to Alan James - UKC:

"The initial impressions were that the DVDs are an extremely slick package - well produced, professionally filmed, good background music and tight editing."

I thought they were really badly edited - the pauses between chapers are all random lengths and one chapter is repeated twice! Did they watch the master through before they sent it for pressing? The sound is awful too - each chapter's sound level is different, some are over compressed, some are distorted.

Other than that, I totally agree. the actual footage is great and the overall content is an absolute goldmine. I reckon I went up about 2 grades in a month when I bought them.

In reply to Alun:

You do get quite a good impression of London Wall but, then again, you get a fairly good impression of it from the bottom - a finger crack with few holds on the side walls on the hard bits! There isn't too much mystery about it.

I also think the onsight of Right Wall is pretty safe. The coverage could be classed as useful beta, and the true purist may need to fast-forward that section, but the side view of the filming, and the length of the route, make sure that you don't really see too much intricate detail of anything other than gear. Neil concerns himself much more with the mental and physical aspects of the person making the ascent.

Alan

In reply to Alan James - UKC:

Useful reviews, thank you Alan, always worth getting an informed opinion (i.e. not just "This DVD's rad dood") before slapping down 20+ quids.

If you'd like to do the same for the "Southern Faces" NZ DVD and the "Chains" Scottish DVD, that would be cool

In reply to Fiend:

Be happy to. Contact me via email and I'll tell you who to send them to. I wouldn't be able to review either since I don't have much experience in those departments.

Although I have also noticed your smiley at the end so maybe you weren't entirely serious.

Alan

In reply to Alan James - UKC: Bought Part 1 at the weekend. I've only watched the technique section so far and agree that the sections on steep climbing are very good. I tend to use all the stuff mentioned but on a very ad hoc basis which can't be good. Will be applying more thought from now on!

The slab section is weak and basically consists of 'make sure you place your feet well and take small steps'.

Overall I would strongly recommend it to any indoor or sport leader trying to improve their technique on steep stuff. overhanging stuff

In reply to Alan James - UKC: Can someone do me a favour and see if these are region specific? They sound good and I'd love to order, but only they will work on Aussie DVD's.

Thanks
LD

In reply to MagnusL:


I thought I'd bought a duff copy but, yes, agree with all that (incl the repeated chapter!).

The editing for the 2nd disc was much better but, then again, it i squite different and flows better. The 1st disc is too chopped up.

The slab and arete section is rubbish but sections on how to deal with steeper terrain and makiung you think generally is excellent. Disc 2 is also just a great watch.

In reply to Fiend:


I could have a go for Southern Faces for you - the long and short of which would be it's ok and interesting if you're headed down there and want an idea of which bits to check out

Basically, its a good one to watch round a mates house when you've talked them into buying it - possibly not worth shelling out cash for as it's repeat viewing potential is limited

And cheers for the review Alan - I'm a climbing DVD whore but had doubts about these. May fork out some cash and have a look now though

In reply to Lurking Dave: I will phone my brother to check the region later this morning.

In reply to Richard Bradley: No info on the label about regions