UKC

I'm looking to get some more small wires, and I'm thinking of one of the above. I already have some RP style copies, which are good but a bit square to fit in alot of placements.

I know the Peenuts are slightly unconventional shapes - what do people think of these? Are they more or less useful than micro wallnuts? I mostly climb on granite and limestone (southwest) if that makes any difference.

Any advice welcome.

In reply to Phil79:

I'd wait for the DMM/HB brass offsets.
jk

In reply to Phil79:

I don't climb on granite much so can't really comment, but I have a set of peenuts that I virtually never place, and if I do they always seem to come out. I've yet to find a good placement for one on limestone or natural grit.

I really like my BD swedges, but assume they are too similar to your RPs. The microwallnuts are ok and I have found a lot of placements for them at Avon but they're not as strong as other options.

In reply to Phil79: I hate them - the material is way to hard, so the rock doesn't bite into them. This results in them lifting out of just about every placement that they go in!

I use the BD microstoppers and I love them. Say put more often than not, I've used them on granite an dlimestone and they work.

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/gear/micro_stoppers.php

In reply to jkarran:

Seconded.

I've got sets of all 3 - Peanuts, Micro Wallnuts and HB Offsets. The Offsets stay on my rack pretty much permanently and but the others are only used on rare occasions, including when climbing on slate. The Micro Wallnuts work pretty well on slate but aren't as good on most other rock types. The Peanuts are actually a bit bigger and work better in igneous rock although they are possibly too hard to be ideal for some sedimentary rock.

I find the peanuts only work well in peg scar type placements, otherwise their shape is not ideal. I've fallen onto them on limestone and it was ok (up in Scotland). But the SW limestone looks a bit brittle in some areas so I wouldn't trust them too much on that type of rock down here. Haven't tried them on the granite yet


Fx

In reply to Mark Stevenson:

And thirded. I use HB Offsets, BD swedges(aka microstoppers) amd mini wallnuts. The proper brass and steel micros are much better than alloy minis in almost all cases.
In fact, if I could find anyone daft enough to buy the mini wallnuts off me I'd happily be without them.
Iain

In reply to IainWhitehouse:

Small but wide (like mini Wallnuts/Rocks) nuts are good where the rock is poor or soft, otherwise I pretty much agree.

Are the Peanuts actually harder (7075 maybe) than other alloy nuts? I thought the lack of 'bite' was just a general problem with highly tapered anodized nuts.

jk

In reply to Phil79:

I have a set of peenuts, they work OK but I don't place them that often (used mainly on slate and a little on lime and less so on grit). I've certainly not had a problem with them being too hard or lifting out of placements. The sit on the same biner as my RPs and BD swedges, they seem to complement each other OK.

However I'd agree with those suggesting waiting for the new DMM brass ofsets. I don't know for sure but I'd guess they'll be stronger and I do prefer brasses.

In the same vein I much prefer the RPs to the BD swedges.

In reply to IainWhitehouse:

I sold mine on ebay and got the Black Diamond ones. More expensive, but worth it.

In reply to Phil79:

i really don't see the point of these micronuts and peenuts. breaking strength of 2kn? thats a joke, i'd rather save my energy placing them, by climbing higher and getting a better placement for a bit of gear that is actually safe!

In reply to Rushmore:

But the minimun breaking strain on peanuts is 4 kn... http://dmmclimbing.com/productsDetails.asp?pid=5&pid2=13

Its not ideal but if its all there is then I'll take it.

In reply to Rushmore:

I'd like to have the option to place something on those routes where gear is small/sparse. 2 or so bits if the strength is low.

In reply to all:

Thanks for the replies all - it seems the peoples choice is DMM brass offsets. Hadn't really considered them but I can see the advantages. Anyone know when there available?

In reply to Phil79:

The end of the week according to DMM on here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=353293&v=1#x5168673

http://www.rockandrapid.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=299

I heard around the middle of July, but that was a few months back now