UKC

/ REVIEW: Rab Women's Photon X Jacket

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Photon x montage, 3 kbWith plenty of warmth for its weight, this is an excellent belay jacket for low-to-mid grade climbing, says Helen Rennard, though for extended belays on harder routes she'd prefer something even warmer still.

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saintlade - on 13 Feb 2018
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Good review Helen. Definitely agree it's a great well thought out winter belay jacket but do size up - I'm normally a Medium Men's in most stuff, found it a touch tight in the neck and arms so went for a large on this jacket. I'd diagree on the Pertex fabric, I think it's a good balance on weight saving an durability and similar to what most companies are using in anycase. I personally wouldn't want anything heavier. I really like the pocket configuration over other jackets on the market, the 2 big mesh pockets are great for gloves and I find 3 on the body fine for stashing other bits.

In terms of the warmth of the jacket, it's definitely not as warm as the heavier Mountain Equipment Citadel as you say, but it's a good bit warmer than the ME Fitzoy which is another popular belay jacket but I find it too cold for winter. I think it's a really good weight jacket for most folk in winter, top design and materials and good balance of warmth and weight.

I've not yet had any epic belay stints this season but will probably pack a thinner summer weight belay jacket to boost it up to Citadel levels of warmth on the odd day it's needed. It would be ace if Rab took the same design and did a heavier weight version of this jacket. It would be my go to jacket for long hard days belaying your mate whilst they crawl their way up their hardest ever lead!

Post edited at 19:58
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Mike Hutton - on 15 Feb 2018
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

I've been using the men's version for a few months now in winter conditions and it is the best synthetic jacket I have owned. And I have owned a few over the years.

It saved the day when I was camping up high. My down sleeping bag had got quite damp but wearing the jacket inside my bag sorted me out


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