/ Recommend me a rucksack for multipitch climbing

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whenry on 26 Sep 2013
I've currently got a Deuter Futura 32, which is great for walking, but not so good when I need to have it one whilst I'm climbing - it's too long to allow me to look up, especially when I'm wearing a helmet (I'm not the tallest bloke in the world), and whilst the mesh in the back is great on hot days, it's not so good for my centre of gravity.

So, I'm looking for something that won't have those problems, and that I can take on a plane with me as hand luggage. The Montane Medusa 32 looks as though it could be the solution.

Any recommendations from the collective wisdom of UKC?
Clarkey77 - on 26 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry:

I recently moved to a montane cobra 25 from an osprey 33 ltr pack. I find the slightly more rigid back on the montane makes it more comfortable and it generally seems more hard wearing. I like it a lot more! So far, I haven't found 25 ltr a drawback, I can strap a rope over the top securely using the compression straps and a long QuickDraw over the centre, and I have invented a simple strap to hold my helmet securely on the outside too. I got the 25ltr bag second hand off a mate for a song though, if I was buying new I'd be tempted by the 33 as it's probably just big enough to bivvy out of.
SteveoS - on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry:

I love my Medusa as it takes rope, rack and helmet if packed correctly. The 'buddy' pocket on the top is great so you don't have to take it off to get to your crunchy bar.

It's material is tough as anything but if packed with metal digging in it's size it looks like a snake who has just eaten a tonne of golf balls.

I however am just shy of 6 foot 2 so i can't help you with the helmet solution even though I can look around freely.
Rubbishy - on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry:

a red one
markus691 on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry:
I didn't like the Futura because of its centre of gravity but if it fits you, you can't be that short and simply putting the lid inside the main compartment and closing that via the drawstring should fix the helmet issue. It did for me.
I switched to a Deuter Guide 35+ because I can fit both climbing and camping gear in there with the extension. But the Medusa is 700g lighter and thus probably better if 32l is all you need.
But really, the solution is to head to a shop, with you gear, and try on a couple of packs.
AlanLittle - on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry:

Is this "multipitch climbing" full-on alpine routes or longish valley cragging style rock routes?

For the latter - waterproof, bottle of water, shoes, guidebook - I find the Pod Granite 16 excellent.

For alpine routes - the above plus food, belay jacket, minimal bivvy gear etc. - I like my OMM Villain. It's overkill capacity wise but can be stripped down to very light and frameless, and I find it distributes the weight flatter along my back and therefore climbs better than a smaller pack where the weight sits in one compact lump.

There is a 25 litre version of the Pod which might cover both jobs adequately.
Avinash Aujayeb - on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to AlanLittle:

Warthog 38
The Ex-Engineer - on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry: Warthog 18
HeMa on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

Ummn, has Blue Ice come out with a new model, as I though they only had the original warthog at 26 and now the bigger one at 38?
jezb1 - on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry: I've just bought a Black Diamond Speed 30. Really like it so far, they do a smaller one too.
GridNorth - on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry: It depends on what you want to put in it. When I'm just carrying a pair of shoes for the descent I use a kids gym bag. I've added a chest strap to stop it sliding off the shoulders. If I'm also carrying water and perhaps a warm top, I use a Lowe Alpine Illusionist, the straps are a little more substancial, that packs up small in my main pack. If I dont intend returning to the base of the route I have a Lowe Alpine sack that zips down from 40 litres to 20 litres but as it's a "limited edition" they are probably unavailable now.
ice.solo - on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry:

arcteryx cierzo 28, and cut the lid off.
martinph78 on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry: The Medusa is a good call. It is large enough and comfortable enough to carry your gear in, and then it is a good pack for climbing with.
Dr.S at work - on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry:
exped cloudburst 15
whenry on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry: Thanks for the suggestions... the Warthog and BD Speed are definitely two I'll look at too. I've got a big Camelbak can fit a few essentials for cragging; this isn't quite for alpine, but long walk-ins, 8+ pitches and no return to the bottom of the crag.

Markus- the Futura fits, but only just, so something a bit shorter seems sensible.
Mr. K - on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry: I've done a lot of Alpine climbing with my Alpkit Gourdon 20 and really rate it. Have also recently purchased an Arcteryx Cierzo 28 but yet to use it in anger.
Avinash Aujayeb - on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to Mr. K:

Cilo gear sacks are pretty good as well. A bit pricey, but robust as anything and light
thedatastream on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to Mr. K:
> (In reply to whenry) I've done a lot of Alpine climbing with my Alpkit Gourdon 20 and really rate it....

Another +1 for the Alpkit Gourdon 20
David Coley - on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry: do you need 32 litres on the climb? Go for the size you need on route and strap the climbing gear on the outside for the walk in.
Stephi on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry:

Another vote for the Pod Granite 16. I'm quite short and I found this pack really comfortable when climbing and big enough for half of the gear, water, food and a small jacket. Rope and helmet have to be attached on the outside.
crustypunkuk - on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry:
Petzl Bug for lightweight days, Montane Cobra when you need a little more space.
For winter i use a Marmot Centaur 38. All three are comfortable, versatile and all round great sacks, but the biggest thing is how they feel on your back. Get to a shop and try a few of the suggestions for fit and make your own mind up.
simon kimber - on 28 Sep 2013
In reply to crustypunkuk:
> (In reply to whenry)
> Petzl Bug for lightweight days

At 570g, it really isn't lightweight in the slightest. What it is is very tough and well designed with straps for attaching your rope to and a handy slot for a guidebook etc.

At 68g, this is my preferred rock climbing sack:
Just be aware that it doesn't like enthusiatic chimneying! And you may want to walk in racked up.

crustypunkuk - on 28 Sep 2013
In reply to simon kimber:
Sorry, should have clarified that i meant lightweight in terms of the climbing rack being carried, not bag weight. The Bug is a great wee sack for single day outings, but it's limited by its own volume. I tend to use mine when i know i won't have to worry about waterproofs or other bulky stuff.
Ray Sparks on 28 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry: Montane Cobra 25 suits me for long days out multi pitching, and not to pricey either, sits secure and comfy on the back when climbing, and plenty of room, rope straps to the outside with the side straps, only down side is the meterial is quite thin, but it is a very light bag.
JoshOvki on 28 Sep 2013
In reply to crustypunkuk:

I agree petzl bug.
Nathan Adam - on 28 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry: BD Speed 22 is a lovely wee bag, pricey but if you shop around you should be able to get it cheaper. Takes pretty much all i need for a day mutli pitching when the gear is split with my partner. Everything is thinned out and nothing really gets in the way, never noticed when i've been wearing it anyway.
Jupiter's Beard on 30 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry: Berghaus squeler 30 lit I think
nickcj - on 30 Sep 2013
In reply to whenry:

I got a DMM pitcher rope bag this year which has worked well. I've also used a OMM 25ltr in the past.

DMM's new sacks coming out next year look good and might be worth the wait.
Nicola Ciancaglini on 05 Oct 2013

Like others have noted, it really depends on what kind of multi-pitching you mean. I personally use a tiny 12 L Grivel Mago, that's perfect for carrying an extra couple of layers, water, camera, wallet and phone. With my climbing partners we have a rule that the second will carry the pack, but with the Mago I'm happy to keep it on me while leading because it has an extra gear loop at the front that can come in handy at times and it really does not hinder freedom of movement... no wonder... it's 12 L only! You can move it at the front reaching for its content without taking it off your shoulders which is nice so you don't risk dropping it. Grivel's got a 13 L version too, the Lynx, which comes with a detachable gear sling too. I've only ever seen it, so I can't comment on it.

Another pack many people like down here is the Climbing Technology Magic Pack. Packable 16 L backpack that some people carry as an extra emergency pack too... inside a bigger back.

If you mean more adventurous multi-pitching, alpine, winter, ice, etc. then it's a totally different game. You'll need a larger pack and it will be in the way one way or another. Last summer in Freidrichshafen I saw a preview of Climbing Technology's new 2014 climbing packs range. All designed with rock climbing in mind, clean lines and no frills, shaped in order to allow maximum freedom of movement (reversed pear, if that makes sense). Very interesting indeed.

Grivel's got a few already. The 28 L Marmolada is an interesting all-rounder, but evidently shaped for rock climbing. I personally can't see how you can go bigger than that without going into the realm of back packs for hiking and trekking.

But really there is so much out there and the standard is very high nowadays. Unfortunately despite everyone moving the manufacturing to the far east, prices don't seem to ease off at all...

Finally, in cash strapped Italy, people use whatever they have as long as it's small enough. I've literally seen people climbing with their kids old rucksacks. I can hardly go cheaper than that! ;-)

rockover - on 05 Oct 2013
Petzl bug.
needvert on 06 Oct 2013 - whois?
In reply to Dr.S at work:

Wore holes in the bottom of mine really quickly (150m of not very involved descent). Is a nice piece of kit though, I like it.

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