UKC

After a brief search, I couldnt see an answer to my question, so here goes:

When proofing a gortex jacket (3 Layer if that helps), is it better to use a wash in, or spray on proofer to help maintain breathablity.
Does anyone have any suggestions for the best proofing solution?

In reply to Dan_S: Granger's gore-tex wash-in liquid. Or see www.gore-tex.com

In reply to Dan_S:

Total and utter waste of time and money apparantly. I attended a talk at the recent Mountain Rescue Conference where KLETs (the professional gear testers)stated that'reproofing' only has a *very* short term effect. Just keeping it clean and tumble trying it occasionally is about the best you can do.

In reply to Dan_S:

I'm not sure how you could re proof Goretex.

Goretex is a PTFE film - the same stuff that plumbers use to seal pipe threads. It's just stretched until it's at the point of breaking and so becomes full of tiny holes. The holes are too small to let water through but are big enough to let water vapour through - hence you don't get all sweaty.

If you're 'reproofing' anything then it'll be the external fabric layer. That will most likely hinder the passage of water vapour thus nullifying the advantage of Goretex.

It's good to wash Goretex because if you get salt on it (from sweating) the salt will draw water through the membrane thus stopping it from being waterproof.

In reply to Dan_S: Gore-tex will never require reproofing cos as Eric said the membrane will always be waterproof if not punctured. However, the breathability will degrade as the outer shell wets. Best results I've had is with Nikwax Tech waash and proofer. Clean soap tray etc out on the washing machine(fabric conditioner ruins breathable/wicking properties), wash as per instructions then tumble dry. Do it a few times a year depending on use.

In reply to Dan_S:

You don't actually re-proof Goretex, as has already been mentioned. If the membrane is worn out/damaged, its gone. What you can do is to re apply a water repellant coating to the nylon outer layer which causes water to bead rather than wet (which stops the breathing). Having said that, I've had no lasting joy with doing this myself or having it done professionaly.

When I cleaned my Triplepoint jacket, the guy in the shop who sold me the cleaner said that the wash in is suitable if the jacket has no lining, if it does use the spray. The wash in gives better results but will water proof the lining.

In reply to Removed User:

I'm sure Dan is aware that Gore-Tex is the membrane. However, everyone (including Gore) refers to the entire fabric/Gore-Tex/scrim laminate assembly as 'Gore-Tex'.

The breathability of Gore-Tex (or any membrane or coating technology) relies on the ability on the ability of water vapour to pass through the membrane and into the external atmosphere. If the face fabric is dirty, or the old DWR (Durable Water Repellent) treatment has failed (or you've washed in using a detergent washing powder), then the face fabric will 'wet out', leaving a continuous film of surface water, through which the water vapour cannot pass.

So, you have to ask:

-is the garment dirty?
-have I washed it in a detergent?
-how old is the garment - is it likely that the DWR is dead?

If the garment is dirty, try washing it with a soap cleaner, either Lux flakes, or a specialist cleaner from Nikwax or Grangers. Ditto if you've washed it with a detergent washing powder (the detergent will bind to the fabric, causing wetting - soap cleaning should remove this).

If the garment is old, then you could try one of the proprietary treatments. I recall that the spray-on is usually recommended for 2-layer, to prevent the mesh from becoming waterproof, and thus no longer serving its wicking purpose. Wash-in, I think, is suggested for 3-layer garments with a laminated inner scrim.

You could do worse than looking at the Nikwax site:

http://www.nikwax.co.uk/

My experience of the Gore site is that the information is next to useless, sadly, and strangely.

Sadly, my experiences trying to re-proof have not been very successful. I might try the ClothesCare system one day, although the price (£25?) is a little offputting.

Sorry, should have stated more clearly, the DWR seems to have gone walkabout, and my jacket doesnt bead very well, I was looking for advice on how to get it back.

Thanks for the advice, my jacket isnt that old (about a year) so I'll give some of that nikwax stuff a go, and see what happens.

In reply to Dan_S:

Dan,

If you Nikwax the outer layer you'll make it impervious to water vapour which will negate the permeability of the Goretex. It'll be waterproof but it won't let out the water vapour.

In reply to captain paranoia:


The breathability of Gore-Tex (or any membrane or coating technology) relies on the ability on the ability of water vapour to pass through the membrane and into the external atmosphere. If the face fabric is dirty, or the old DWR (Durable Water Repellent) treatment has failed (or you've washed in using a detergent washing powder), then the face fabric will 'wet out', leaving a continuous film of surface water, through which the water vapour cannot pass.

In addition, the film of water on the face fabric causes cooling (evaporation) thereby promoting furthur condensation on the inner fabric

In reply to Removed User:


Depends which Nikwax product you use. Check out http://www.nikwax.co.uk for their advice. In my experience Tech Wash followed by TX-Direct wash-in is ok for Triplepoint. They say it's good for Gore-Tex too, and they cite an endorsement from W.L. Gore.

In reply to Removed User:


Sorry, Eric, that's nonsense. If you use the _correct_ Nikwax or Grangers products, the Gore-tex membrane will be totally unaffected. That's why Gore recommend these products for their fabrics.

In reply to captain paranoia:

Clothes Care was the one I tried, didn't make any lasting improvements beyond a couple of outings and I've never bothered since.