UKC

I've been doing a fair bit of single pitch instructing work recently and found I really needed some rope protectors that were:
1) well designed and actually worked, especially for protecting knots.
2) didn't cost an absolute fortune.

Anyway after a tour of some shops and a bit of experimentation I think I might have cracked it. Please have a look at the two photos below, especially the second one and let me know what you think.

Protection for single strands of rope running over rough rock or sharp edges. 50cm sections of 1/2" B&Q hose pipe with a spiral cut seem effective and secure despite being really easy to fit and remove. See http://www.climbwest.com/rope_protector_1.jpg

Protection for the central figure-of-eight knots in bottom ropes or other set-ups. A piece of matting fitted with two grommets, two 3mm prussik loops and two 4cm accessory krabs again seems to look like a winner. See http://www.climbwest.com/rope_protector_2.jpg As far as I'm aware there is nothing like this available for sale.

As well as being after any feedback or suggestions, I had to buy more components (grommets, krabs etc.) than I need for myself so if anyone else fancies a cheap rope protector mat or some length of hosepipe, let me know.

In reply to Mark Stevenson: go to a carpet warehouse place and ask for offcuts and what not you can cut them to size and they also work as mats for eating lunch and playing games try that

In reply to ian clarke: Be wary of using nylon carpets. Nylon rubbing on nylon gets a bit too warm for comfort and can damage the sheath of the rope and wear through the carpet at an alarming rate. (Yes I have seen it happen.) Try the canvas rope protectors from Caving Supplies in Buxton to keep them apart. (or use wool carpets.)

In reply to Mark Stevenson:

What do you consider a fortune? 10 quid?

I can't see the split hose staying in place given movement over an edge. And as has been said, your carpet looks like nylon and is unlikely to last long.

Having run some tests in the past, I stick to proper canvas nowadays. lyon do a giant one that would suit your know use well. Have used the Spriroll protectors too and quite liked them.

In reply to Mark Stevenson:
why not try this for the knot
"Knot Protector: Plastic bottle wonder
Take a 2 litre soda bottle, chop off the bottom, leaving as much bottle as you can and slot it onto the haul line above the knot, it’ll cover the knot, biner and the rotor. Choke a 3mm cord clip in loop round the neck to clip it off if you have to untie the bag. A duck tape trim round the base means it might last a little longer but if perhaps a little too serious."
taken from http://peterhodes.co.uk/writing/the-big-wall-series/big-wall-hauling-gear/

In reply to Mark Stevenson:
Never thought of using a rope bag or your rucksac then?
www.lyon.co.uk will get you to some rope protectors that cost a couple of quid.
Don't send the application to Dragon's Den just yet.

In reply to Mark Stevenson:

Just wanted to say thank you.
I was playing around with the thought of using Hosepipe as rope protector and was wondering if it will work.
You answered the question for me.

Have you tried if it works just cutting it open in a straight line and fixing it with a prussik?

<off with the scissor to shorten the hosepipe>

In reply to Adam L and others: Cheers for the comments.

I was thinking about trying the Spriroll protectors but the price adds up when you're talking about 2 strands on 3 bottom ropes. Also most of the single pitch stuff is voluntary not paid.

The matting is a first attempt and was picked on cost grounds rather than durability. I really wanted to get something in use with the two prussic loop design to see if will protect a fig-8 knot more effectively than the two traditional canvas/velcro rope protectors I've previously used. If it works well but the matting wears out, I'll take peoples advice and look for some wool carpet or canvas.

In reply to andrew sandercock: Good suggestion. I should have thought of it, since we did that when hauling in Yosemite in 2006!

You would have to find a bottle with a neck that a bight of 10.5mm static would fit through and they might tend to be disposable. However I'll certainly have a quick play with that idea.

In reply to uncontrollable:
We´ve been using pipe to protect the rope when we are bolting routes for years. Hosepipe doesn´t last on the razor sharp tops of most Med sea cliffs and if it´s split tends to open up and let the rope out. We use black plastic water pipe (the stiff stuff) which you find everywhere, either thread it on or slit it along (where we are bolting at the moment it is used for water feed to the marble saw wires so is slit already). Then just hit the end with a hammer so it grips the rope BEFORE you put the rope in!

In reply to uncontrollable:

I tried that but it wasn't very secure an the rope had the potential to work itself out of the groove as the hosepipe isn't springy enough to provide a tight fit. I'm not sure a how prussik would help or be secured.

A test on a 90 degree bend on the stone work of the house suggested that spiral version would remain securely in place and the rope would slide within in it.

Best thing is probably for you to try both on a short section of hose like I did and see how you get on. I'd be very interested to hear what you think.

In reply to Mark Stevenson: I've used a plastic milk bottle with the base removed and slit down one side, held in place with a prusik. Also foam pipe insulation, held in place in the same way, old karrimat, old rucksack etc. All have worked well.

Andy

In reply to jimtitt: Cheers for that. Got some 15mm PEX piping around that I found was too stiff and hard to slit. I'll have a look longer look at what else is available here.

In reply to Andy Manthorpe: Got a load of foam pipe insulation sitting so will add that to the list of things to try. Cheers.

In reply to jimtitt:

cheers for the tip,
I was hoping for something I can fix mid pitch on a loaded rope (abbing/jugging) without to much hassle. Need it for Granite and I don't tend to carry a hammer
At the moment I rebelay to a prusik or put a piece of clothing under (gloves etc.) which is a bit time consuming and you might end up naked by the end of a long pitch.

Are you putting up new routes with Scott?

In reply to Mark Stevenson:

looks like spiral works better than.
Sorry I meant a piece of cord not prussik,fixed on the hose pipe and than tied to the rope to stop it from sliding down.

I once used the spirol stuff and it's neat but pretty pricey and a bit of a fuff to get on.

In reply to uncontrollable:

Makes sense now you've mentioned abseiling/jugging as you would need something extra to hold it in place in that situation.

In reply to uncontrollable:
Yep, I´ll be there with him on Friday in the sun drinking a beer!
With the pipe its handy because you just slide it down as you go until it´s in the right place, we often have to use one bit over the edge and another a bit lower down. It also makes it easier starting the ab.
You can whack the pipe with a rock to make it grip, basically just crunch the end a bit.

Jim

In reply to uncontrollable:
@ Mark and Jim
thanks for the input

I just shortened the garden hosepipe (don't tell anyone)
Which is old and mangy and springs back to shape.
I tried both shapes over a sharp edge (cupboard door),
one long cut: rope could work itself out if unlucky
spiral: hold securely put the edge tends to work itself into the cut defeating the purpose
so I mixed both versions, two turns of narrow spiral cut on top and bottom and a straight cut for the rest. Doesn't pop of the rope and works well over the edge.
Finished the whole thing of with a piece of string at the top to tie it to the rope to stop it from sliding down.

In reply to uncontrollable: I'll give your suggestion a go, probably tomorrow now.