UKC

Hi all, I've been climbing for nearly a year now, and I've started to bash up the toes on my first pair of shoes. I've found two pairs of shoes that suit my needs in different ways, the Five Ten Anasazi VCS's and Scarpa Vapour V's.

The general impression I get is that the Anasazis are better for vertical and slab climbs, and Vapours are the pick for overhangs. My outdoor climbing is mainly vertical boulders and routes in the peaks (limestone and grit), but indoor climbing is mainly overhanging in some way.

Can anyone that has owned either of these pairs give me some advice if either of these shoes would be good for my situation?

Honestly, whatever fits best.

Fit is way more important than rubber! 

Having said that, I am a fan of 5.10 and find their stuff usually works well for me. It tends to last well and the rubber is as sticky as I need it - or atleast I find my limits before I find the rubber's limit. 

Based on. Your OPbothwpuld be good options.

Thanks for the advice again. Hopefully trying on some Vapours tomorrow, I hope they fit as well as I think.

The only thing that concerns me about these shoes is how flat the anasazis are for indoor overhangs, but I've made my tarantulaces work for a year on those same overhangs so maybe I shouldn't worry as much.

One follow up question, if you've had both, did either stretch at all?

Both will stretch a little, probably not as much as your Sportivas.

You are probably right saying that the Anasazi is better for slabs and the Vapour for steeper stuff but it is marginal, the best pair is the one that fits you best.