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After a break in climbing for a good few years I have started up again, mainly due to going back to uni, so I am getting back into the swing of things again. As such, now I think it is about time to be getting a rope, already have my rack from before, and was wondering what people think would be the best style to go for, single or double ropes?
Living in Notts means that most of my climbing is on grit, although I would like to do more climbing further afield. Plus, this coming winter I am hopefully going to take an winter/ice climbing course which will hopefully get me into alpine style climbing and mountaineering.
Most of my climbing has been done on single ropes before, having borrowed them or used partners ropes, so this is going to be my first rope, a big decision about what to buy, and as a student, an expensive decision as well.
Sooo, what do people think? In the end is it going to just going to come down to personal choice? A single is going to be easier to use but will it be less flexible in it's uses for me? Or would doubles be a better choice due to the extra safety they give, and greater flexibilty? Is it the fact that a lot of people using single ropes do so because that is what they first went climbing on and so don't 'know' any better?
It all just seems sooo confusing, so thanks in advance for any advice,
Nick
Living in Notts means that most of my climbing is on grit, although I would like to do more climbing further afield. Plus, this coming winter I am hopefully going to take an winter/ice climbing course which will hopefully get me into alpine style climbing and mountaineering.
Most of my climbing has been done on single ropes before, having borrowed them or used partners ropes, so this is going to be my first rope, a big decision about what to buy, and as a student, an expensive decision as well.
Sooo, what do people think? In the end is it going to just going to come down to personal choice? A single is going to be easier to use but will it be less flexible in it's uses for me? Or would doubles be a better choice due to the extra safety they give, and greater flexibilty? Is it the fact that a lot of people using single ropes do so because that is what they first went climbing on and so don't 'know' any better?
It all just seems sooo confusing, so thanks in advance for any advice,
Nick
In reply to FunkyNick: Double seems to suit what you have in mind. Good luck.
In reply to FunkyNick: Get a 10.5mm. Durable and can be used singly. But not as bulky as 11mm so if you wanted to double up with someone elses rope the weight isn't too bad.
Still can get a pair of double ropes for £100 these days but probably wouldn't last as long. I've had my 10.5mm for six years ish. I'm only just retireing it for abseiling.
Still can get a pair of double ropes for £100 these days but probably wouldn't last as long. I've had my 10.5mm for six years ish. I'm only just retireing it for abseiling.
In reply to our rich: Retiring after 6 years. You wastrel you. Should get another year out of it at least.... Only retiring mine after 7 years coz this stunning chick said she'd rather have one of a different colour....
Oh joy, only took 3 other posts and already a difference of opinion... lol..
No wonder I can't decide.. lol
No wonder I can't decide.. lol
In reply to FunkyNick:
Depends who you climb with. Double ropes are more versatile if you will always be climbing with someone else with one.
Depends who you climb with. Double ropes are more versatile if you will always be climbing with someone else with one.
In reply to GrahamD:Well, if I was to go for the doubles I would definately buy a pair as then I wouldn't have to worry about the other person not having a rope, which happens a lot in a uni club.
In reply to FunkyNick: It always amazes me when people retire their climbing ropes, presumably because tehy feel that the rope is past it's best or at worst unsafe, then go and using it for abseiling! Best thing I ever aquired was a static rope for abseiling.
As to the origianl questions. Go for double ropes but only buy one, if your partner hasn't got one it's the wrong partner. Double ropes are , safer, you can put more runners in, runners pull out less often, you can abseil retreat with them , you can carry one each. Climbing on a single rope should be the exception (unless you mostly sport climb I suppose)
As to the origianl questions. Go for double ropes but only buy one, if your partner hasn't got one it's the wrong partner. Double ropes are , safer, you can put more runners in, runners pull out less often, you can abseil retreat with them , you can carry one each. Climbing on a single rope should be the exception (unless you mostly sport climb I suppose)
In reply to Mike from Frome: Climbing on single ropes is perfectly safe on short grit routes. They are superior to twin ropes as they are less hassle and easier to set up. Twin ropes are only really needed on long routes where rope drag can be significant - which can also increase the stress on your runners.
As for retireing my rope. This is not done on the basis that i feel that it is unsafe. No the criteria is more that the rope is becomming to stiff. i.e. it is difficult to tie knots easily. Even so abseiling only aplies static loads so even if I were not confisdent of its ability to hold a high factor dynamic fall that does not neccessarily mean it is unsafe for abseiling.
As for retireing my rope. This is not done on the basis that i feel that it is unsafe. No the criteria is more that the rope is becomming to stiff. i.e. it is difficult to tie knots easily. Even so abseiling only aplies static loads so even if I were not confisdent of its ability to hold a high factor dynamic fall that does not neccessarily mean it is unsafe for abseiling.
In reply to our rich:
Yeah true enuf, however dynamic ropes tend to wear badly when used for abseiling as the streeetch in the rope abrades it more as it tos and fros over sharp bits of rock..... One day I'll buy an abing rope....
Yeah true enuf, however dynamic ropes tend to wear badly when used for abseiling as the streeetch in the rope abrades it more as it tos and fros over sharp bits of rock..... One day I'll buy an abing rope....
In reply to FunkyNick:
If you're going to winter climb, do Alpine climbing or mountains generally then double ropes, preferably dry treated. If you're climbing on very sharp rock, then double ropes are again best. For gritstone either single or double ropes but if you only have one half rope you can tie into the middle and still climb 'double' (tho this can be a bit more confusing than two ropes of different colours) - few grit routes are more than 25m long! Ideally your partner will have the other half rope, so you only need to get one tho good idea to buy a pair if you can, and for winter/alpine routes 60m is better than 50m.
10/10.5 rope is best for wall and sport climbing, in fact double ropes no good here at all.
When I've gone to somewhere like Spain for climbing, I've taken a sport rope and my partner's taken a half rope, then all our options are covered.
Happy climbing
Liz
If you're going to winter climb, do Alpine climbing or mountains generally then double ropes, preferably dry treated. If you're climbing on very sharp rock, then double ropes are again best. For gritstone either single or double ropes but if you only have one half rope you can tie into the middle and still climb 'double' (tho this can be a bit more confusing than two ropes of different colours) - few grit routes are more than 25m long! Ideally your partner will have the other half rope, so you only need to get one tho good idea to buy a pair if you can, and for winter/alpine routes 60m is better than 50m.
10/10.5 rope is best for wall and sport climbing, in fact double ropes no good here at all.
When I've gone to somewhere like Spain for climbing, I've taken a sport rope and my partner's taken a half rope, then all our options are covered.
Happy climbing
Liz
In reply to FunkyNick: I have swapped to doubles, and i do a wide range of clmbing. I have chosen to get 8.5mm 60m double ropes, the extra length is good for winter routes. Also with two ropes you can absiel double the distance you could with a single, priceless desperte winter retreat or in an alpine decent. You could get an 8.5 half rope and one of the new 9.4mm single ropes to use with it, this way you would have a a choice of single or double depending on the situation.
In reply to FunkyNick: A quote from the Pezl catalogue " there is no known record of someone falling and shearing through double or twin ropes , but cutting through a single strand of rope over a sharp edge has hapened much too often..." Makes you think?
In reply to Bob: I still use single ropes i the right situation, but the advantages of the double are worth considering, all dependant on the type of climbing you are doing.
Hmmmm, still not sure... lol
I decide I am going to get a single, and then change my mind again as I run through everything again!
I guess I will just put it off until I have a made a clear decision about it, instead of buying a rope and then regretting it. Unless I go near a gear shop and go all gooey eyed at all the shiny new gear.. lol
I decide I am going to get a single, and then change my mind again as I run through everything again!
I guess I will just put it off until I have a made a clear decision about it, instead of buying a rope and then regretting it. Unless I go near a gear shop and go all gooey eyed at all the shiny new gear.. lol
In reply to our rich:
What an ignorant bunch of twaddle. Double ropes are far easier to set up a belay with for starters. If you do any serious gritstone climbing there is no way you would use a single unless it's a dead straight up crack perhaps. Double ropes are far safer and the slightest bit of rope drag on a delicate slab is the last thing you want.
If you really want the best of both worlds get a very thin single rope (I think you can get 9.5mm now) which you can use as a half if the person you are climbing with has a half rope - or you can use it as a single if you must.
Now Sports climbing is a different story but I don't want to get into that...
What an ignorant bunch of twaddle. Double ropes are far easier to set up a belay with for starters. If you do any serious gritstone climbing there is no way you would use a single unless it's a dead straight up crack perhaps. Double ropes are far safer and the slightest bit of rope drag on a delicate slab is the last thing you want.
If you really want the best of both worlds get a very thin single rope (I think you can get 9.5mm now) which you can use as a half if the person you are climbing with has a half rope - or you can use it as a single if you must.
Now Sports climbing is a different story but I don't want to get into that...
In reply to FunkyNick:
Used to use a single 10.5mm rope for years, but switched to double 8.5mm ropes when I found myself up shite creak without a paddle on the penon in costa blanca.
Now I wouldnt tackle anything over 25m without double ropes. Biggest hassel with double ropes is trying to explain to a beginner how to belay, apart from that no problem.
Used to use a single 10.5mm rope for years, but switched to double 8.5mm ropes when I found myself up shite creak without a paddle on the penon in costa blanca.
Now I wouldnt tackle anything over 25m without double ropes. Biggest hassel with double ropes is trying to explain to a beginner how to belay, apart from that no problem.
In reply to Dave Collier:
I'm with Dave on this one. Anyone who uses single ropes is either a sport climber, a bumbly or too inept to handle 2 ropes.
There is no discussion - if you do trad routes get a double rope or two double topes. (not as oxymoronic as it sounds)
Single ropes are a pain in the arse on anything but a sport climb
I'm with Dave on this one. Anyone who uses single ropes is either a sport climber, a bumbly or too inept to handle 2 ropes.
There is no discussion - if you do trad routes get a double rope or two double topes. (not as oxymoronic as it sounds)
Single ropes are a pain in the arse on anything but a sport climb
In reply to FunkyNick: Double ropes every time for everything, there is no appreciable down side but tons of very good reasons why it is the best choice, especially here in the UK and especially for the uses you have in mind.
In reply to FunkyNick:
Advantages of double ropes:
1. Less rope drag on routes which wander around rather than go straight up or down
2. Allow you to use gear placements over a wider area
3. Longer abseils are possible
4. If one rope is damaged, then you still have another one!
5. More versatile when setting up your belay.
Disadvantages of double ropes:
1. heavier
2. more expensive
You will always be climbing with a partner - often with double ropes, each climber buys one. You will only need to buy two if you will be climbing with people who don't own one...
Also, have a look at what people who have been climbing for a while are using - in general, most people doing trad routes use doubles. Those who use a single rope tend to be either sports climbers - sports routes tend to be straighter so rope drag is not so much of a problem and you don't need to use gear placements over a wide area. Or they may be people who have come from a climbing wall background, where a single rope makes much more sense.
Hope this helps you to make a good decision! You will then have all the fun of deciding WHICH rope to buy! fun fun fun! My mate reckons that there isn't much between them so you may as well have a nice colour! (not my view!)
I've always just bought one half rope and climbed on doubles with my partners rope...
mich
Advantages of double ropes:
1. Less rope drag on routes which wander around rather than go straight up or down
2. Allow you to use gear placements over a wider area
3. Longer abseils are possible
4. If one rope is damaged, then you still have another one!
5. More versatile when setting up your belay.
Disadvantages of double ropes:
1. heavier
2. more expensive
You will always be climbing with a partner - often with double ropes, each climber buys one. You will only need to buy two if you will be climbing with people who don't own one...
Also, have a look at what people who have been climbing for a while are using - in general, most people doing trad routes use doubles. Those who use a single rope tend to be either sports climbers - sports routes tend to be straighter so rope drag is not so much of a problem and you don't need to use gear placements over a wide area. Or they may be people who have come from a climbing wall background, where a single rope makes much more sense.
Hope this helps you to make a good decision! You will then have all the fun of deciding WHICH rope to buy! fun fun fun! My mate reckons that there isn't much between them so you may as well have a nice colour! (not my view!)
I've always just bought one half rope and climbed on doubles with my partners rope...
mich
In reply to lots of people above: I prefer double myself but it should be noted that loads of folk all over the world climb nothing but trad routes and only use single ropes. Flick through any yank mag and take a look for a start. It seems Britain could well be an exception where use of double ropes is the norm.
You can of course use single ropes on wiggly routes, you just need to think more about extending runners.
You can of course use single ropes on wiggly routes, you just need to think more about extending runners.
in reply to all;thanks,was going to post the same question myself,so,what double ropes to get,make,diameter,bestest price?
In reply to FunkyNick:
FOR GODS SAKE!!!
don't decide,
just buy a 10.5 mm rope, single, then either someone else will have another 10.5mm or if you want to go double, you can buy a second or tie-in midway.
but you could probably, from what the others are saying, get by on a single for now, then see how it goes come the summer. if you really need two then shell out the cash, it'll last for a while anyways!
FOR GODS SAKE!!!
don't decide,
just buy a 10.5 mm rope, single, then either someone else will have another 10.5mm or if you want to go double, you can buy a second or tie-in midway.
but you could probably, from what the others are saying, get by on a single for now, then see how it goes come the summer. if you really need two then shell out the cash, it'll last for a while anyways!
In reply to FunkyNick:
It seemeth like no-one ever just climbs on a single 9mm when the route is short an straight (eg gritstone cracks). I did when I could only afford 1 rope but wanted 2 (student days).
I mean - if you fall on a double rope just one of the ropes takes the strain (usually) right?
Having said that, I've never fallen... yet!
It seemeth like no-one ever just climbs on a single 9mm when the route is short an straight (eg gritstone cracks). I did when I could only afford 1 rope but wanted 2 (student days).
I mean - if you fall on a double rope just one of the ropes takes the strain (usually) right?
Having said that, I've never fallen... yet!
In reply to clams_cant_sing:
Wrong - depends where gear is. If you are using doubles well then the load will often be spread between the ropes, thus putting less strain on the gear and less chance of it ripping.
Wrong - depends where gear is. If you are using doubles well then the load will often be spread between the ropes, thus putting less strain on the gear and less chance of it ripping.
In reply to Dave Collier: Also, if climbing as a party of three, you can lead on double and bring the other two up on a single 9mm/8.5mm each.
In reply to FunkyNick:
all depends upon length of route, protection and how wiggly of course u will need singles if you are considering teaching
allan
all depends upon length of route, protection and how wiggly of course u will need singles if you are considering teaching
allan
In reply to Anonymous:
Sorry, got to disagree - just getting myself 30m x 10.5mm for used on Grit routes and at the wall. Fed up climbing on doubles - too much hassle. A sinlge 30m rope will save me about 160m worth of rope coiling/back stacking per route, which means more climbing less faffing.
Yes I know doubles are preferable for some routes and almost essential of a small minority - but honestly at least 98% of routes on Grit are doable on a single rope.
Also despite the comments here, climbing on a single rope is still equally common as climbing on doubles in the Peak. (Empirical evidence - of 45 photos in the Rockfax Gritstone East guide showing lead climbers, 22 were on single ropes and 23 on double ropes)
My advice to anyone buying their first rope/s - buy a 30m 10.5mm (non-dry) for using at the wall and to get you started cragging outside. Then save up and when you can afford it buy a pair of Mammot Genesis (dry) 50m x 8.5mm for multi-pitch and mountaineering.
However whatever you do - don't buy just 1 double rope, or buy a very long (60m) single as your first rope.
Mark
> Single ropes are a pain in the arse on anything but a sport climb
Sorry, got to disagree - just getting myself 30m x 10.5mm for used on Grit routes and at the wall. Fed up climbing on doubles - too much hassle. A sinlge 30m rope will save me about 160m worth of rope coiling/back stacking per route, which means more climbing less faffing.
Yes I know doubles are preferable for some routes and almost essential of a small minority - but honestly at least 98% of routes on Grit are doable on a single rope.
Also despite the comments here, climbing on a single rope is still equally common as climbing on doubles in the Peak. (Empirical evidence - of 45 photos in the Rockfax Gritstone East guide showing lead climbers, 22 were on single ropes and 23 on double ropes)
My advice to anyone buying their first rope/s - buy a 30m 10.5mm (non-dry) for using at the wall and to get you started cragging outside. Then save up and when you can afford it buy a pair of Mammot Genesis (dry) 50m x 8.5mm for multi-pitch and mountaineering.
However whatever you do - don't buy just 1 double rope, or buy a very long (60m) single as your first rope.
Mark
In reply to Mark Stevenson: You need to get yourself off the grit and on to some proper routes.
In reply to Mark Stevenson:
You'll certainly need double ropes there. Try Bow Wall - that's a good one.
You'll certainly need double ropes there. Try Bow Wall - that's a good one.
In reply to Mark Stevenson:
30m is fine until you realise you can't climb anything higher than 14m which is a lot of Gritstone and most of anything else
30m is fine until you realise you can't climb anything higher than 14m which is a lot of Gritstone and most of anything else
In reply to Mark Stevenson: Yeah go to great zawn and do dream illuminate (or whatever its called). or avoid bosigran and go to carn barra, but fundamentally go to a pub called the quenns arms just outside st just and have a pint of doom bar and some fish pie!
In reply to DaveR: Is that the pub just about opposite a camp-site? After you have come out of St Just and gone down a big hill and back up the other side? Cos if it is, then I can thoroughly recommend it. The beer is great, the food is wonderful and they are really friendly, they even timed us, and had bets no doubt, from leaving the pub to put our tent up, which we had never used before, to returning to the pub! I think it was about 25 mins btw...
In reply to Jon Greengrass:
Well FA doesn't mean First Ascent in this instance. I mean what on earth can you do with a 30m rope? Washing line maybe.
Well FA doesn't mean First Ascent in this instance. I mean what on earth can you do with a 30m rope? Washing line maybe.
In reply to FunkyNick: That'll be the one. the campsite has a tacky horrible bar, but the pub is one of the greatest, bestest, friendliest, open lateist pubs i've ever been in. puts the ODG to shame. and i like the ODG.
In reply to Dave Collier:
>If you do any serious gritstone climbing there is no way you would use a single unless it's a dead straight up crack perhaps.
Serious gritstone? Like the following then?
John Dunne, End of the Affair E8 6c
Robin Barker, Black Car Burning E7 6c
Seb Grieve, Meshuga E9 6c
Do you want to tell them they've been doing it all wrong or shall I?
Mark
>If you do any serious gritstone climbing there is no way you would use a single unless it's a dead straight up crack perhaps.
Serious gritstone? Like the following then?
John Dunne, End of the Affair E8 6c
Robin Barker, Black Car Burning E7 6c
Seb Grieve, Meshuga E9 6c
Do you want to tell them they've been doing it all wrong or shall I?
Mark
In reply to DaveR: We just avoided the tacky bar, even though the beer is really cheap there!!
Totally agree about everything about the pub, they were real friendly to us as we sat at the bar gossiping with the locals. Really want to get back down there this summer.
Totally agree about everything about the pub, they were real friendly to us as we sat at the bar gossiping with the locals. Really want to get back down there this summer.
In reply to Dave Collier:
top rope at Birchens
> (In reply to Jon Greengrass)
>
> Well FA doesn't mean First Ascent in this instance. I mean what on earth can you do with a 30m rope? Washing line maybe.
>
> Well FA doesn't mean First Ascent in this instance. I mean what on earth can you do with a 30m rope? Washing line maybe.
top rope at Birchens
In reply to Dave Collier:
save them some money if they used a washing line
can't beat B&Q economy blue nylon rope. just a bit slick for belaying.
save them some money if they used a washing line
can't beat B&Q economy blue nylon rope. just a bit slick for belaying.
Think I will end up buying a set of doubles. Have seen a few good deals around on them as well... which is nice...
In reply to Mark Stevenson:
Aren't those routes dead straight up though? Like "New Statesman" too. Obviously if you only do dead straight up routes all you need is one rope but if you do a lot of grit routes you'll be wiggling around quite a lot and two ropes are pretty much indespensible.
Aren't those routes dead straight up though? Like "New Statesman" too. Obviously if you only do dead straight up routes all you need is one rope but if you do a lot of grit routes you'll be wiggling around quite a lot and two ropes are pretty much indespensible.
In reply to Dave Collier: I thank you... now the tricky bit is gonna be finding a pair of colours that doesn't clash with all the rest of my gear...
In reply to Jon Greengrass:
I'm sorry, but I don't really follow this reasoning. I assume you're thinking along the lines of "Oh I'd better not climb any higher in case I fall off! (and want lowered)". I'm afraid that doesn't really strike me as coherent with the whole ethos of going trad climbing in the first place. Next we'll have - "Oh I'd better not climb any higher in case I fall because there's no gear - I'll come back and put some nice large expansion bolts in"
Anyway, each to his own. Last month climbing with a very experiecned climbing partner, we were quite happy to lead 16-18m E1/2s at Curbar on his 25metre rope and neither of us thought anything of it - and that was through choice and not lack of double ropes which were left in the boot of the car along with a 60m single.
Just to clarify things in case people were confused, I've got plenty of ropes, a set of 60m 7.8mm twins, set of 50m 8.5mm doubles, a 60m 9.8mm single, an old 50m 8.4mm, a 30m 9mm scrambling rope + various lengths/diameters (retired) used as setup ropes. It just that I feel none of the above are particulatly suited to climbing wall use and short outcrop routes which make up a large fraction of my climbing.
Mark
PS Many thanks everyone for the route suggestions and pub directions for Bosigran. Definately going to have a look at Bow Wall whilst I'm there.
> (In reply to Mark Stevenson)
> 30m is fine until you realise you can't climb anything higher than 14m which is a lot of Gritstone and most of anything else
> 30m is fine until you realise you can't climb anything higher than 14m which is a lot of Gritstone and most of anything else
I'm sorry, but I don't really follow this reasoning. I assume you're thinking along the lines of "Oh I'd better not climb any higher in case I fall off! (and want lowered)". I'm afraid that doesn't really strike me as coherent with the whole ethos of going trad climbing in the first place. Next we'll have - "Oh I'd better not climb any higher in case I fall because there's no gear - I'll come back and put some nice large expansion bolts in"
Anyway, each to his own. Last month climbing with a very experiecned climbing partner, we were quite happy to lead 16-18m E1/2s at Curbar on his 25metre rope and neither of us thought anything of it - and that was through choice and not lack of double ropes which were left in the boot of the car along with a 60m single.
Just to clarify things in case people were confused, I've got plenty of ropes, a set of 60m 7.8mm twins, set of 50m 8.5mm doubles, a 60m 9.8mm single, an old 50m 8.4mm, a 30m 9mm scrambling rope + various lengths/diameters (retired) used as setup ropes. It just that I feel none of the above are particulatly suited to climbing wall use and short outcrop routes which make up a large fraction of my climbing.
Mark
PS Many thanks everyone for the route suggestions and pub directions for Bosigran. Definately going to have a look at Bow Wall whilst I'm there.
In reply to Mark Stevenson:
30 m is a bit short for some grit routes when you have to go back for a belay. I started with a 100' rope on grit and quickly replaced it with a 120' as it was not possible to get to belays sometimes. Going off that a 40m rope might be of more use, so, 3m for tying on, 4m for belaying, that leaves 33m so 100ft routes on the roaches are possible.
30 m is a bit short for some grit routes when you have to go back for a belay. I started with a 100' rope on grit and quickly replaced it with a 120' as it was not possible to get to belays sometimes. Going off that a 40m rope might be of more use, so, 3m for tying on, 4m for belaying, that leaves 33m so 100ft routes on the roaches are possible.
In reply to sutty:
Sutty, I hear you.
I often find on grit that i need a fair bit of extra rope to make a belay with. The tops of some grit routs can be pretty featureless and flat. I was once tempted to belay a route on the Roaches by putting the anchor on Ramshaw Rocks.
Nige.
Sutty, I hear you.
I often find on grit that i need a fair bit of extra rope to make a belay with. The tops of some grit routs can be pretty featureless and flat. I was once tempted to belay a route on the Roaches by putting the anchor on Ramshaw Rocks.
Nige.
In reply to Nige:
lol
I agree thats the only good use for a 30m ropes, setting up grit belays
How far is it from the top of birchens edge to the clifftop boulders?
lol
I agree thats the only good use for a 30m ropes, setting up grit belays
How far is it from the top of birchens edge to the clifftop boulders?
In reply to Mark Stevenson:
god, i hope your joking, what happens if you can't complete a route do you just get dropped! }-)
god, i hope your joking, what happens if you can't complete a route do you just get dropped! }-)
In reply to FunkyNick:
try reading a book on ropes if you understood the concept of double and single ropes you wouldnt be asking such a daft question
try reading a book on ropes if you understood the concept of double and single ropes you wouldnt be asking such a daft question
1
In reply to Anonymous:
Interesting that there are 53 other replies. It might indicate others don't think it's a daft question. The only critism that could be leveled is that it (the question) has been raised before on this forum so a search of previous threads might have provided a lot of guidance.
Mark
Interesting that there are 53 other replies. It might indicate others don't think it's a daft question. The only critism that could be leveled is that it (the question) has been raised before on this forum so a search of previous threads might have provided a lot of guidance.
Mark
In reply to Mark Stevenson: Well.. I did do a search in the forums before posting this, but didn't find anything that seemed to give me the advice I was after.
And after reading the thread it helped me make up my mind.
And after reading the thread it helped me make up my mind.
In reply to Anonymous: the other weekend i was climbing in the molwyn i heard a gut telling his mates that there were 3 types of rope system
1. single rope - the most common trad way.
2. double ropes - used in exaclty the same way as a single rope, but using 2 ropes instead ??
3. doulble ropes - the wa any one else would use 2 ropes.
i managed to refrain from punching him
1. single rope - the most common trad way.
2. double ropes - used in exaclty the same way as a single rope, but using 2 ropes instead ??
3. doulble ropes - the wa any one else would use 2 ropes.
i managed to refrain from punching him
In reply to Hutch: Well.. there are twin ropes which are used just like a single and not like doubles. Never understood that one myself though.
Or wasn't that the reason you wanted to punch him? Maybe for saying single is the most common trad way?
Or wasn't that the reason you wanted to punch him? Maybe for saying single is the most common trad way?
In reply to FunkyNick: twin ropes are used in the Alps etc ....both ropes are clipped thru all pieces of gear...you get the security of a thicker rope but also the ability to abseil twice as far as you would otherwise...not really of much use on typical routes in the UK
In reply to Ian Hill: Aaaaah.. that'll be why I haven't really ever come across it.. ta
In reply to Ian Hill: And lower impact forces apparently or that's what the beal website says.
In reply to MJH:
I have used twins on standard rock routes in the UK. This is usually due to turning up at a crag with a pair of 9mm ropes and wishing to do a straightish route. I just clip both ropes into each runner. It just makes the belay a bit messy with all that rope hanging about.
The real shocker for some reading this might be the conclusion that Stuart S (of this forum) and I came to when deciding how to reduce weight on Scottish mixed winter routes. We discussed the fact that we were doing grade III stuff, some grade II's, and that if one of us fell off, then we would most likely hit something else before the rope was loaded. Therefore, we started to climb these routes with a single 9mm dryline. This is an apporach I also use on easier routes (diffs and v diffs) on summer mountain routes. Once we get into Severe territory, it's 11mm or twin/pair 9mm.
I don't think that the above is all that unusual. I mean, what sort of diameter rope is used for fixed ropes on big range expeditions? I have read time and again that people fix anything from 6mm to 8mm terylene.
Nige.
I have used twins on standard rock routes in the UK. This is usually due to turning up at a crag with a pair of 9mm ropes and wishing to do a straightish route. I just clip both ropes into each runner. It just makes the belay a bit messy with all that rope hanging about.
The real shocker for some reading this might be the conclusion that Stuart S (of this forum) and I came to when deciding how to reduce weight on Scottish mixed winter routes. We discussed the fact that we were doing grade III stuff, some grade II's, and that if one of us fell off, then we would most likely hit something else before the rope was loaded. Therefore, we started to climb these routes with a single 9mm dryline. This is an apporach I also use on easier routes (diffs and v diffs) on summer mountain routes. Once we get into Severe territory, it's 11mm or twin/pair 9mm.
I don't think that the above is all that unusual. I mean, what sort of diameter rope is used for fixed ropes on big range expeditions? I have read time and again that people fix anything from 6mm to 8mm terylene.
Nige.
In reply to MJH:
and reduced liklihood of cuting on edges because of larger surface area
and less liklihood of cutting both in stonefall.
and reduced liklihood of cuting on edges because of larger surface area
and less liklihood of cutting both in stonefall.
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