Looking to get some new shoes and keen to try out something from unparallel.
Interested to hear what models people are using for different climbing/rock type.
I'm primarily looking for something to use on long sport route's. Also potentially another soft model for indoor/grit.
I use the Regulus. Amazing shoe. Works for basically everything for me. But then I don’t do much slabby stuff.
I've been using the UP Rise VCS for a month or so. I really like it for vertical limestone, great for edging. When it starts to get steep I switch to something more aggressive.
Nick Brown did a review of the Unparallel Lace, Sirius and Regulus back in 2019 which is a good reference point:
He also reviewed the TN Pro, which I know he loves, but don't think it quite describes what you're looking for - neither does the Flagship (which I'm currently reviewing). Either way, here's a couple of links regardless:
Sounds like what I need, won't be climbing above the low 7's and can't see myself doing overhang route's!
Interesting you say the flagships may not be suitable as you mention they are good for steep limestone (what I'm looking for)
They're to replace Scarpa instinct lace.
> I've been using the UP Rise VCS for a month or so. I really like it for vertical limestone, great for edging. When it starts to get steep I switch to something more aggressive.
How comfortable are they? Do you know how close are they the old velcro Anasazi? Anyone know they compare the current 5.10 Kirigami?
I'm looking for something comfortable for long multipitch or for spending all day on grit. I've climbed in Anasazis for decades and hate changing to new shoes. I was persuaded to get some Katanas but, although they perform pretty well as far as I can tell, they are so uncomfortable it's taken shoe stretchers and strategically placed screwed up aluminium foil to get them to the point I can probably get up a route in them. There's no way I'd be taking them to Wales, let alone the Alps.
> Interesting you say the flagships may not be suitable as you mention they are good for steep limestone (what I'm looking for)
Sorry, for some reason I thought I'd read long multi-pitch limestone, but apparently I imagined that. You're quite right, they would be suitable for what you are describing!
The review has already been written, and is currently with Dan Bailey - our Gear Editor - so hopefully it'll be out soon. The only caveat I'd give about the Flagships is fit, because as per the video their shape is a little unusual. If you can get somewhere to try them on that'll probably make a lot more sense than any of my chat.
I'd be intrigued to know what you make of them.
> How comfortable are they?
I can't answer that for you, that depends on the shape of your foot and how you size them. Mine are comfortable for me. They're flat rather than downturned, but I find that a correctly fitted downturned shoe can be perfectly comfortable anyway.
Dave, they are basically the old Anasazi. I went from Anasazi to Up Rise VCS. They perform as least as well, are very comfortable (I don't need to take them off all day) and are better built. Mine have lasted ages with little signs of wear.
You won't regret moving to the Up Rise VCS.
Used on grit and knock 5.10 out of the park. Comfy and precise with brilliant stickability
I'm curious about the review and what would be your opinion on those. I've recently bought them after seeing the review from Nick. They feel really good on small footholds on vertical walls with some friction, but when you really need to dig in on steep ground with polished footholds they don't seem to give the same amount of purchase solutions or phantoms. I'm wondering whether TN Pros would not be better for this kind of stuff.
I moved onto the Up Lace when I "graduated" from a beginner climber in my trusty Tarantulas to intermediate and outdoors.
Went with friends bouldering outside for my first time and clawed my way up for first two days then went into Outside to get a better shoe ( TBF the tarantula's were very worn at this point and went off for a resole a month or so later) and these were the first pair recommend.
Played around on them in test area for and then tried on a few more different pairs but kept coming back to the Up.
In the end bought the Up and never looked back. Still love my tarantulas for warm up and smeering but when I need the confidence to edge or think "right this is it" I out these one and rock on.
Also they do get a few looks when putting them on at local bouldering centres and you can give the "yeah, these are the real love lettet to climbing jobs since 5:10 sold out".
Just had some Up Moccs delivered. Unfortunately not the best fit and will be returned.
The quality of material and build looks really good, definitely look at again, preferably in a shop.
I'd just echo what has been said above, I'm on my second pairs of lace UP's a brilliant replacement for the Anasazi not as stiff as the blanco's which is a shame as the old ones were pretty much the ultimate limestone shoes imho, probably similar to the pinks maybe a touch stiffer?
Can you comment on what made them a bad fit, please? Presume you have had 5.10 moccasyms before?
> Lace ups
> Used on grit and knock 5.10 out of the park. Comfy and precise with brilliant stickability
I tried a few options and this is what I went for in the end. I've only managed one night on the wall since, but all good so far - more comfortable than the Katanas anyway!
No, I've had a good fit with pre - Adidas 5.10 Anazi VCS.
I've got a long 2nd & 3rd (middle) toe, probably due to a small degree of asymmetry the 2nd toe was painfully buckled and not confident of stretching sufficiently, unlike original Ninjas or Cobras.
Hope that helps