UKC

I’ve been climbing a while (mostly to the annoyance of my friends whose gear I regularly steal) and have decided to buy a new and super shiny rack! I’m wondering what everyone’s dream kit would be? I’m thinking light!

In reply to c_s_hawkins:

See mark stevensons listing, he seems to have the latest shiney stuff all the time. if going for last years model however wait till mark is selling his stuff off, one careful user etc.

In reply to c_s_hawkins:

for lakes multi pitch up to e2 or so.

1-11 wallnuts
1-8 wallnuts
1-3 rocks
pink tricam

3 spectre krabs to rack them on, all different colours

8 60cm (8mm) slings doubled up with spectre krabs to make quickdraws

4 60cm (8mm) slings doubled up with spectre krabs and revolvers to make quickdraws

3 120cm (8mm) slings + 3 sepctre krabs

rocentric 7 + helium krab

zero cam 5 + spectre krab
dmm 4cu 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3. + 5 spectre krabs

set of rps + peenuts + spectre krab

2 sentiel HMS for belay
2 spectre krabs for bleay

wild country matrix light harness
petzl meteor lid
petzl reverso + senitel and postiron krabs
dmm nutkey + senitel
3 prussiks + spectre

60m mammut genisis ropes

my 2 pence

My girlfriend has my dream rack

In reply to The Great Pretender:

Good call on the spectre krabs! like the various colours! and dam light as well!

In reply to The Great Pretender:

What, no hexes?

And revolvers don't sit well on doubled slings unless you elastic-band them in place.

In reply to Sean_J: yea big yellow 7

In reply to luke_brown: Get a photo in your gallery then?

In reply to c_s_hawkins: Aside from the fact that newer versions of WC Zeros, DMM 4CUs and Spectre rather than Prowire krabs now exist, my dream rack is pretty much what I've got - after 5+ years of fine tuning!

Nuts (racked by size on Petzl spirit notchless krabs)
-Set of WC Rocks 1-8
-Set of WC Superlight Rocks 1-6
-Set of DMM Wallnuts 7-11
-WC Rockcentric 6 on wire (equivalent to Rock 12)
-a spare set of large wires for Winter use

Micros (racked on wiregate accessory krabs):
-Set of HB Brass Offets
-set of WC Micros
-Set of DMM Peanuts

Cams (21 all on colour-coded DMM wiregates)
-WC Zeros 1-6 plus duplicates of 3-6
-DMM 4CUs 1.0, 1.25, 1.5, 1.75, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4
-WC Tech Friends 5 and 6

Hexes:
Rockcentics 6-9 on colour coded wiregates (winter use)

Extenders:
-16 x 15cm quickdraws (DMM prowires)
-4 x 60cm 'tripled' quickdraws (7mm dyneema slings and prowires)
-3 x DMM Screamers
[6 of the above with DMM Revolvers]

Krabs:
-4 x Black Diamond Screwgates
-6 x HB 11mm Screwgates
-10 x DMM wiregates

Slings
-2 x 60cm (10mm dyneema)
-2 x 120cm (7 or 10mm dyneema)
-2 x 180cm (8mm dyneema)
-1 x 240cm (12mm dyneema)

Winter Gear:
20 assorted pitons
2 Bulldogs
2 Warthogs

I'd like a few more DMM Revolvers and Positron S/gates, a WC 400cm x 10mm dyneema cordlette, perhaps a couple of tricams, duplicate ultralight rocks 5&6, skyhooks and a big-bro possibly. Black Diamond C3s might also be worth a look. I also don't have any big wall or ice gear currently.

HTH

In reply to Mark Stevenson:

You forgot your extra strength sunshades to stop the glare off your shiney stuff.. Please supply all admirers with a pair before opening your sack in future.

Good weekend the other week wasn't it?

In reply to Mark Stevenson: I take it you don't carry everything all at once!

Do you really need 20 pitons? Do you aid climb? I've always carried 4-5 in winter but even then rarely use them.

In reply to c_s_hawkins: My dream rack...

http://www.fotosearch.com/BDX316/bxp57273/

In reply to c_s_hawkins: I've pretty much got my dream rack; highlights include Zeroes 3 to 6, full set of WC friends 1 to 5 (except a #4 for some reason), RPs 2-5, HB offsets 1-5 & HB curves 00,0&1 and a BD skyhook (have even used in on a few routes in anger!) Got 6mm and 8mm 120 slings and some 10mm 60s tripled up as QDs. DMM Prowires throughout (i own about 60 of the damn things!). One 10cm revolver QD, find it really useful. One or two of the new DMM lightweight screwgates.

In reply to Marc C:
think about your blood pressure!

In reply to Dr.Strangeglove: What was it Alison Hargreaves said? Hmm, something like "Better to live one day eating sheep than a thousand years eating lettuce"

In reply to c_s_hawkins:

My dream rack would be a nice firm pair of DD!

In reply to Mark Stevenson:

23 quikdraws - do you toprope your routes?

In reply to c_s_hawkins:

Current rack (not far off dream - though I'd like to replace the WildWires with DMM Sheilds). This is a two-person rack - hence the doubling up of belays devices etc.: -


Wires & Nuts
============

- Full set of DMM Wallnuts 1-10
- Full set of Black Diamond Stoppers 1-13
- Half-set of Wild Country Anodised Rocks on Wire
- Full-set of Wild Country SuperLight Rocks on Wire
- RPs 1-3 plus two each of RPs 4 and 5
- Wild Country Rockcentrics 3-7 and 9


Cams
====

- Wild Country Technical Friends 1-3
- CCH Aliens Green, Yellow, Red and Orange
- DMM 4CU 3 and 3.5


Extenders
=========

- Wild Country Wild Wires 5x10cm
- Wild Country Wild Wires 5x15cm
- Wild Country Wild Wires 4x20cm
- DMM Zodiac Screwgates on 60cm Dyneema x2
- Clog Offset Ds Screwgates on 60cm Dyneema x2


Crabs and Slings
================

- Screwgates too many brands to name – probably about 15
- Snaplinks too many brands to name – probably about 10
- 120cm slings – probably about 10
- 240cm slings x2
- Cordelette


Belay and Misc
==============

- DMM Sentinel Screwgate x2
- DMM Big Boa x2
- ATC XP x2
- Petzl Reverso x2
- Nut key x2

In reply to TRNovice:

All these replies I quite reassuring - I've always thought I carried too much stuff but it appear I'm merely average.

Mr Novice - if you 14 QDs, and you've got four slings with screwgates on - what on earth do you use 15+ more screwgates and 10+ snaplinks for? And what's with all the slings?

Or is this just a list of all the climbing gear you own.

In reply to TobyA:

That's a combined rack for Sport & Trad - don't take the short 'draws when on trad, don't take the extenders etc. when on sport .

Oh and I tend to place slings as runners quite a bit, but then I like long mountain routes.

In reply to TRNovice: all those wires!!! and you say you can only climb VS!!! a double set of RPs!!! i have never placed an rp on a vs. i tihnk you should learn to climb with less gear! in your rack - you have around 50 wires, when are you ever going to place 50 wires? you double up on rock size 3 6 times! you could kit out 5 people with that much gear!

In reply to The Great Pretender: Thank god I'm not the only one reading this and thinking 'Crikey! These guys going Big Wall climbing or what?"

In reply to c_s_hawkins:
I've been climjbing about a yr and this is what I use - ok for the level I'm climbing at for now (i think!?!)
Set of 1-10 DMM wallnuts (sizes 4-8 have 2 of each for longer routes)
Set of 5-9 Rock centrics
1 x 240cm sling plus screwgate
1 x 120cm sling plus screwgate
2 x 60 cm, one doubled up with two wiregate Krabs
Have 10 quickdraws, change the extenders on them depending what type of route I'm doing so have extenders varying in size from 10cm and 15cm (for sport) and 20, 25, 30's for Trad
2 prussiks plus screwgate
piece of tat
my dads old karabiners as racking krabs (save money!)
nut key
piece of tat
belay device plus screwgate
harness
50m single rope
Thats it!!
Cams are my next purchase once I understand all the different kinds/types available!!

In reply to c_s_hawkins:

After spending far to long searching the internet for latest deals I've finally got a rack I am happy with, but I'm sure that will change. Funnily enough I've just had to type it up for the insurance anyhow.

Nuts 1 - 14 on wire
Size 11 on cord
Rock Empire Flex Cam 0
Wild Country Tech Friends .5,1.5,2,2.5
Camalots 1,2,3,4
Rockcentrics 3-7 on wire
Rockcentrics 8&9 on Dyneema
Tricam 1
5 x 20cm DMM Livewire quickdraws
5 x 20cm DMM Prowire quickdrwas
Random wiregates for racking gear
14 screwgates
ATC XP
Stich Plate
Fig 8
50m Marmot Revealation
2 x 60m Beal Icelines
30m Static
10m Static
2 x 60cm slings
1 x 120cm sling
3 x 240cm slings
1 x 480cm sling

In reply to The Great Pretender:

I don't use it all at the same time *sigh*

Have placed RP 4s & 5s several times.

In reply to c_s_hawkins: I don't know about a "dream" rack but there's some good advice from Andy Kirkpatrick here: http://www.psychovertical.com/?rockrackgear which complements the advice offered by others in this thread.

In reply to c_s_hawkins:

You really don't need a million tonnes of gear to get started. A set of 1-10 wallnuts, maybe 3 hexes, 8 draws, 3 screwgates & some slings will get you up amost anything without the expense of cams (and it'll teach you to climb without them, which is a very good thing IMHO, especially if you're going to do any winter or apline stuff). A couple of cams and a set of RPs would be good additions when cash allows.

Don't fall into the standard trap of having a million bits of gear and not really knowing what to do with half of them. Learn all the different uses you can put each bit of gear to, e.g. camming hex placements, stacked nuts etc. If you climb a lot, no matter what kind of rack you have you'll need to improvise from time to time. Also if you want to do alpine stuff, you'll want to minimise the amount of gear you're carrying to knowing how to use one bit of gear in several different ways can stop you carrying unneccesary weight.

In reply to c_s_hawkins:

36DD...Wow...that would be a good rack.

In reply to ngadams:
I agree with ngadams, keep it simple to start of with, in comparison with everyone elses rack I have almost nothing but this is enough to get me up all I do (up to HVS),
then when you have the experience and the need start building it up with cams/RP's and such like

In reply to Mikey_07: Agree totally

In reply to c_s_hawkins:
to add to the 'keep it simple' thing, i reckon its good to do your first 15-20 routes (easy routes preferably) with a set of nutss and a few quickdraws. That way you really appreciate it when you get more gear and you can start protecting routes properly.

rem

In reply to Mikey_07:

the ex was a 30E. that was crazy, but i didn't complain

In reply to c_s_hawkins: Anything as long as you stop stealing mine Q!!!!