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Hi , can someone recomend me a good climbing helmet. I need to buy one, and I'm not sure whic makes/models are good, are they very different or essentailly the same? would be used for "normal climbing" no alpine stuff etc...
thanks
thanks
In reply to diggers:
I use a Grivel Salamander for everything, rock, winter, alpine. It's ridiculously light-weight, and even fits my massive head (62cm)
Doesn't look as vented as others, but the shell doesn't sit on your head, a layer of expanded polystyrene does, but not over the whole head. It sounds wierd, but it works well, and it's very effective in rockfall (from Grivel tests, not personal use)
Looks kinda cool too....
I use a Grivel Salamander for everything, rock, winter, alpine. It's ridiculously light-weight, and even fits my massive head (62cm)
Doesn't look as vented as others, but the shell doesn't sit on your head, a layer of expanded polystyrene does, but not over the whole head. It sounds wierd, but it works well, and it's very effective in rockfall (from Grivel tests, not personal use)
Looks kinda cool too....
In reply to diggers: I use petzl elios, cheap, good quality, comfy as, adjustable. Often have to wear it for group work for several hours as well as climbing trips. This would be my suggestion
In reply to diggers:
I have the grivel salamender, its very good i hardly notice it!
I think somewhere theres a deal on where its redueced to £50, if you dont mind having the pale blue colour.... but i cant remember where sorry.
I have the grivel salamender, its very good i hardly notice it!
I think somewhere theres a deal on where its redueced to £50, if you dont mind having the pale blue colour.... but i cant remember where sorry.
In reply to diggers: Just try a load on, the one that you can't feel will be the best for you. If it pinches/is too tight, you'll end up not wearing it anyway!
They are all made to the same impact standard. The polystyrene ones need to be treated with a bit more care than the plastic ones (e.g. if, like me, you put your helmet in the bottom of the bag and throw the bag down when you get to the crag, a plastic one would be better - although don't throw the bag too hard!)
They are all made to the same impact standard. The polystyrene ones need to be treated with a bit more care than the plastic ones (e.g. if, like me, you put your helmet in the bottom of the bag and throw the bag down when you get to the crag, a plastic one would be better - although don't throw the bag too hard!)
Thanks everyone, I will have a look at the salamender to start with, light weight sounds good to me! - just as long as it fits!
Cheers
Diggers.
Cheers
Diggers.
In reply to diggers:
Try the Petzl Meteor, it is very light and cost about £60. I can wear it all day and it doesn't bother me in the slightest.
Try the Petzl Meteor, it is very light and cost about £60. I can wear it all day and it doesn't bother me in the slightest.
In reply to diggers:
Grivel Salamander 30 quid at rock and run(it was) and Half dome 30quid at planet fear.
Grivel Salamander 30 quid at rock and run(it was) and Half dome 30quid at planet fear.
In reply to diggers: Petzl Elios, cheap as chips and so light and comfortable you'll forget you've got it on. =o)
In reply to diggers:
Don't spend lots of money on a fancy helmet, just go for the Petzl Elios. I've used these for many years and different usage, and they'er great. Lightweight and cheap. Good colours too.
Don't spend lots of money on a fancy helmet, just go for the Petzl Elios. I've used these for many years and different usage, and they'er great. Lightweight and cheap. Good colours too.
In reply to diggers: Another vote for the elios, light, durable (since they lost the rivets), relatively cheap, effective.
some good deals on that well known auction site!
some good deals on that well known auction site!
In reply to GrahamD: Absolutely.
In reply to diggers: You can get a petzl Elios for £30 at Decathlon! The cheapest helmet ive found thats not one of theses center models.
but make sure you try first because it fits me perfectly but not my twin brother...
but make sure you try first because it fits me perfectly but not my twin brother...
In reply to diggers:
I'd suggest the good old Petzl Ecrin Roc. A good all round helmet, comfy enough and easily adjustable. I've used mine for pretty much all types of activities, unfortunately it is now a bit smelly because of the amount of use it is getting in caves at the moment. I plan to keep my current one for caving only, and buy a shiny new ecrin roc this weekend for climbing...
...unless someone here can persuade me otherwise, but make it a strong argument please.
I'd suggest the good old Petzl Ecrin Roc. A good all round helmet, comfy enough and easily adjustable. I've used mine for pretty much all types of activities, unfortunately it is now a bit smelly because of the amount of use it is getting in caves at the moment. I plan to keep my current one for caving only, and buy a shiny new ecrin roc this weekend for climbing...
...unless someone here can persuade me otherwise, but make it a strong argument please.
In reply to diggers: I would strongly recomend that if you mainly climb on rock (by the looks of your profile you do) buy a light weight (sub 300g), well ventilated, polysterene model.
They are much more comfortable than traditional helmets, which means you will be much less tempted to leave in your rucksack on a sunny day.
The models to look out for are:
Petzl Meteor III
Black Diamond Tracer
Grivel Airtech
Salewa Helium/Krypton
Camp Starlight
The following helmets all retail at around £60, but the extra £20 investment is well worth it when you consider you are ten times more likley to wear it and it can and will save your life.
I would advise you to avoid the following models, which although excellent helmets for Alpine and Winter climbing and normally around £20 cheaper than their polysterene counterparts, are poor rock climbing helmets. Due to their heavy, poorly ventilated and often bulky designs.
Petzl Elios
Black Diamond Halfdome
Petzl Ecrin
Grivel Salamander
Camp Rockstar
Camp Armour.
The above helmets, will all do the job, however they are not anywhere near as comfry as the polysteren models mention above.
It seems to pointless to buy a helmet which you will not enjoy wearing.
I've written a helmet review, which should be live on UKC soon.
HTH
They are much more comfortable than traditional helmets, which means you will be much less tempted to leave in your rucksack on a sunny day.
The models to look out for are:
Petzl Meteor III
Black Diamond Tracer
Grivel Airtech
Salewa Helium/Krypton
Camp Starlight
The following helmets all retail at around £60, but the extra £20 investment is well worth it when you consider you are ten times more likley to wear it and it can and will save your life.
I would advise you to avoid the following models, which although excellent helmets for Alpine and Winter climbing and normally around £20 cheaper than their polysterene counterparts, are poor rock climbing helmets. Due to their heavy, poorly ventilated and often bulky designs.
Petzl Elios
Black Diamond Halfdome
Petzl Ecrin
Grivel Salamander
Camp Rockstar
Camp Armour.
The above helmets, will all do the job, however they are not anywhere near as comfry as the polysteren models mention above.
It seems to pointless to buy a helmet which you will not enjoy wearing.
I've written a helmet review, which should be live on UKC soon.
HTH
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: I find that the elios is more comfortable than the poly helmets, it really depends on your head shape.
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:
Each to their own. Personally I find a half dome much nicer to wear than a cycle helmet look alike and eminently suitable for rock climbing.
> I would advise you to avoid the following models, which although excellent helmets for Alpine and Winter climbing and normally around £20 cheaper than their polysterene counterparts, are poor rock climbing helmets..
Each to their own. Personally I find a half dome much nicer to wear than a cycle helmet look alike and eminently suitable for rock climbing.
In reply to GrahamD: I second the Elios and Half Dome, have both and there's really not much in them, both pretty comfortable.
In reply to diggers: Tom is over egging his cake a bit, but has a point. I have a Petzl Meteor III and a Petzl Elios. I have the used the Elios in summer but it is noticeably sweatier and hotter than the Meteor, even though weight wise its not a huge difference. The Meteor is just better ventilated. If you are just rock climbing, I definitely take a look at the lighter helmets like the Tracers or Meteors.
In reply to TobyA: Anyone tried the Petzl Altios. I tried it on in the shop the other day as am looking for the most ventilated helmet on the market and since this has a suspended mesh inner it strikes me as being the best...any thoughts anyone?
In reply to jh24-2008:
I also have the salamanda. It's a good lid but would be too sweaty most other climbing areas but Scotland in the summer....
I also have the salamanda. It's a good lid but would be too sweaty most other climbing areas but Scotland in the summer....
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:
are the polystyrene lids not more bulky than most the hard lids you mention??
are the polystyrene lids not more bulky than most the hard lids you mention??
In reply to CurlyStevo:
Nope. About the same or in the case of some of the old fashioned cradled helmets less so.
As I understand it things like Elios and the CAMP armour are halfway between old cradle style helmets (they have a shell that deflects some of the force), and the polystyrene style helmets (they have polystyrene in them as padding). It's not like polystyrene helmets aren't hard.
> are the polystyrene lids not more bulky than most the hard lids you mention??
Nope. About the same or in the case of some of the old fashioned cradled helmets less so.
As I understand it things like Elios and the CAMP armour are halfway between old cradle style helmets (they have a shell that deflects some of the force), and the polystyrene style helmets (they have polystyrene in them as padding). It's not like polystyrene helmets aren't hard.
In reply to Jon Griffith: Haven't even seen one in the flesh yet, report back if you get one!
I got a CAMP armour through from Allcord today to test. Unfortunately the weekend forecast is for sun and 27 degrees so I imagine I'm gonna get sweaty in it. Looks a perfectly good helmet and fits well, but probably wouldn't be my first choice for a summer rock helmet just because of the ventilation issue.
I got a CAMP armour through from Allcord today to test. Unfortunately the weekend forecast is for sun and 27 degrees so I imagine I'm gonna get sweaty in it. Looks a perfectly good helmet and fits well, but probably wouldn't be my first choice for a summer rock helmet just because of the ventilation issue.
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: Disagree strongly on the Ecrin Roc, they're comfy and not actually that sweaty since hardly any of the inside actually touches your head, unlike a polystyrene job. Unless you are a total pencil-neck the 100g extra or so is not going to make that much of a difference. They do sit quite high but, unlike other helmets, you can scratch and bang your head as much as you want and nothing bad will happen.
You won't have to replace it every year either, unlike the Meteor from all the little dents and chunks taken out from sitting in your bag, knocking it on the floor etc. The Ecrin Roc, and to a lesser extent the semi-polystyrene jobs alongside it in your list are far far more versatile and you miss an important point, you say the OP
I would advise against the BD Halfdome though (same may apply to the Tracer but I've never worn one), it's an absolute pig to adjust. The Petzl helmets are miles ahead of others I've tried in terms of adjustment (compared with the BD Halfdome, Camp Armour and Camp Rockstar. Not fiddled with a Grivel helmet yet).
You won't have to replace it every year either, unlike the Meteor from all the little dents and chunks taken out from sitting in your bag, knocking it on the floor etc. The Ecrin Roc, and to a lesser extent the semi-polystyrene jobs alongside it in your list are far far more versatile and you miss an important point, you say the OP
> mainly climb[s] on rock
In which case a good alrounder suitible for trad, sport, alps and winter would be a much better option than having a super-ligtweight helmet and either compromising on safety or buying another helmet for any colder or loose stuff.I would advise against the BD Halfdome though (same may apply to the Tracer but I've never worn one), it's an absolute pig to adjust. The Petzl helmets are miles ahead of others I've tried in terms of adjustment (compared with the BD Halfdome, Camp Armour and Camp Rockstar. Not fiddled with a Grivel helmet yet).
In reply to steve456:
At least according the Needlesports - the Ecrin Roc is more than double the weight of a meteor! That's a pretty big difference.
What do you do to your helmets dude?! I had my original Meteor for about 8 years, and I think this is my third summer, with my Meteor III - it still looks pristine and I use if weekly
Or alternatively, you could see it as having one helmet that isn't quite right for anything you do.
I only got my armour a couple of hours ago but adjustment is just as easy as on my Elios, perhaps even easier.
> (In reply to Tom Ripley) Disagree strongly on the Ecrin Roc, ...Unless you are a total pencil-neck the 100g extra or so is not going to make that much of a difference.
At least according the Needlesports - the Ecrin Roc is more than double the weight of a meteor! That's a pretty big difference.
> You won't have to replace it every year either, unlike the Meteor from all the little dents and chunks taken out from sitting in your bag, knocking it on the floor etc.
What do you do to your helmets dude?! I had my original Meteor for about 8 years, and I think this is my third summer, with my Meteor III - it still looks pristine and I use if weekly
> In which case a good alrounder suitible for trad, sport, alps and winter would be a much better option than having a super-ligtweight helmet and either compromising on safety or buying another helmet for any colder or loose stuff.
Or alternatively, you could see it as having one helmet that isn't quite right for anything you do.
> The Petzl helmets are miles ahead of others I've tried in terms of adjustment (compared with the BD Halfdome, Camp Armour...
I only got my armour a couple of hours ago but adjustment is just as easy as on my Elios, perhaps even easier.
In reply to TobyA: will do. I am having to get it as the CAMP startech just doesnt ventilate well enough, well that and the fact that the foam padding has now come loose (glue doesnt seem to stick). I do really like the shape of it though as it allows very un-impeded head movement. Cant win 'em all!
In reply to TobyA:
Yeah fair enough, they are pretty mammoth compared to the new Meteors but in any alp/winter situation where I'm looking to save grams, I'd much rather have the extra protection (although the option of an elios or similar complicates things). At the crag in a t-shirt and jeans the extra weight isn't that much of an issue.
Never had a Meteor but I've climbed with a guy who had to replace his Meteor II because the polystyrene was looking really bashed and crumbly and he's not a careless person. I'm not sure how old it was, probably ~2-3 years. My much-abused Ecrin Roc (lost count of the number of times its gone rolling out of my bag and down the hill at the crag) is still looking pristine after a couple of years.
Only tried an Armor on once and I didn't really like the tightning thing, it seemed to go from floppy loose to painfully tight very suddenly, possibly more the fit. Housemate bought a BD halfdome and it is a nightmare to adjust if you want a hat on.
I still reckon the Ecrin Roc is the best all-rounder. The ventilation is pretty good (the alternatives with most of the helmet pressed against your head and lots of nice insulating foam and sponge NEED all of those holes!), it's comfortable (and I reckon more so than the Elios) and is bombproof.
In all fairness, I don't know what I'd go for next time but it wouldn't be a meteor unless I still had something for winter/chossy scrambles/alps.
Yeah fair enough, they are pretty mammoth compared to the new Meteors but in any alp/winter situation where I'm looking to save grams, I'd much rather have the extra protection (although the option of an elios or similar complicates things). At the crag in a t-shirt and jeans the extra weight isn't that much of an issue.
> What do you do to your helmets dude?!
Never had a Meteor but I've climbed with a guy who had to replace his Meteor II because the polystyrene was looking really bashed and crumbly and he's not a careless person. I'm not sure how old it was, probably ~2-3 years. My much-abused Ecrin Roc (lost count of the number of times its gone rolling out of my bag and down the hill at the crag) is still looking pristine after a couple of years.
Only tried an Armor on once and I didn't really like the tightning thing, it seemed to go from floppy loose to painfully tight very suddenly, possibly more the fit. Housemate bought a BD halfdome and it is a nightmare to adjust if you want a hat on.
> Or alternatively, you could see it as having one helmet that isn't quite right for anything you do.
I still reckon the Ecrin Roc is the best all-rounder. The ventilation is pretty good (the alternatives with most of the helmet pressed against your head and lots of nice insulating foam and sponge NEED all of those holes!), it's comfortable (and I reckon more so than the Elios) and is bombproof.
In all fairness, I don't know what I'd go for next time but it wouldn't be a meteor unless I still had something for winter/chossy scrambles/alps.
In reply to steve456: The Ecrin Roc is a classic, but it is about a 15 year old design. It will be interesting to see if this new Petzl helmet that Jon mentioned is going to ultimately be a replacement for the Roc? There aren't many other helmet designs with such a pedigree though - except of course the Edelrid Ultralight - bought mine in 1992 and it wasn't a new design then - but still on sale now!
Maybe that a new thread though, oldest bits of climbing gear design still available today. Petzl spirit krabs might be one...
Maybe that a new thread though, oldest bits of climbing gear design still available today. Petzl spirit krabs might be one...
In reply to diggers: I've used various helmets over the years - Petzl Ecrins Rock, Petzl Meteor and now one of the newer style DMM ones. The issue certainly isn't as cut and dried as Tom or others makes out. There are good reasons for choosing any of the three main construction styles.
The Ecrin Roc is subperb in main ways - easily adjustable with hats/balaclavas, about as indestructable as helmets come, and pretty comfy even in warmer conditions. However it's very heavy compared to every other options. If you are seriously going to use and abuse a helmet (especially in winter) and durability is a high priority, it's the one to choose.
The Meteor is completely superb in every repsect other than durability. Unfortauntely I got less four years out of mine, admittedly not being at all careful with it. However, if you are occasionally reluctant to wear a helmet, ultra light is the way to go. If you buy one (or similar), there is a good chance you will be more likely to wear it on marginal occasions. It's cliched but a helmet you don't wear is useless.
The new DMM one is similar to the Elios - hard outer shell plus polystyrene inside. It's extremely good and once I've put it one I generally forget I'm wearing it - the sign of a good helmet.
For some reason my helmets get a very 'hard ride' and soon look worse for wear - in that regard the Ecrin Roc and older style helmets excel. The modern 'Elios style' still hold up well and are certainly less tiring to wear for extended periods - I wore my DMM one for 36 days in a row last summer with no issues. I was glad of it recently as it saved me a bruise or two when I took an upsidedown fall from Vulcan, landing flat on my back against the cliff face. Unlike the ultra-light ones I'm not too concerned about it being damaged in the process of that fall.
Despite being a 'regular' helmet wearer, recently there have been several occasions where I haven't worn a helmet where perhaps I should have done. That included today belaying at Cheddar where my leader pulled off some lose holds; a not unknown event in the Gorge. I can't say that if I still had my Meteor, I would have worn it, but this thread has made me consider it and I might well have.
You've probably more than enough info now to think about, however ultimately it comes down to a personal trade-off - if someone else was paying I'd have a Meteor III or similar...
HTH
PS Only other thing to consider is the apart for the Edelrid Ultralight, the Elios is probably the most unflattering to wear helemt on the market currently.
The Ecrin Roc is subperb in main ways - easily adjustable with hats/balaclavas, about as indestructable as helmets come, and pretty comfy even in warmer conditions. However it's very heavy compared to every other options. If you are seriously going to use and abuse a helmet (especially in winter) and durability is a high priority, it's the one to choose.
The Meteor is completely superb in every repsect other than durability. Unfortauntely I got less four years out of mine, admittedly not being at all careful with it. However, if you are occasionally reluctant to wear a helmet, ultra light is the way to go. If you buy one (or similar), there is a good chance you will be more likely to wear it on marginal occasions. It's cliched but a helmet you don't wear is useless.
The new DMM one is similar to the Elios - hard outer shell plus polystyrene inside. It's extremely good and once I've put it one I generally forget I'm wearing it - the sign of a good helmet.
For some reason my helmets get a very 'hard ride' and soon look worse for wear - in that regard the Ecrin Roc and older style helmets excel. The modern 'Elios style' still hold up well and are certainly less tiring to wear for extended periods - I wore my DMM one for 36 days in a row last summer with no issues. I was glad of it recently as it saved me a bruise or two when I took an upsidedown fall from Vulcan, landing flat on my back against the cliff face. Unlike the ultra-light ones I'm not too concerned about it being damaged in the process of that fall.
Despite being a 'regular' helmet wearer, recently there have been several occasions where I haven't worn a helmet where perhaps I should have done. That included today belaying at Cheddar where my leader pulled off some lose holds; a not unknown event in the Gorge. I can't say that if I still had my Meteor, I would have worn it, but this thread has made me consider it and I might well have.
You've probably more than enough info now to think about, however ultimately it comes down to a personal trade-off - if someone else was paying I'd have a Meteor III or similar...
HTH
PS Only other thing to consider is the apart for the Edelrid Ultralight, the Elios is probably the most unflattering to wear helemt on the market currently.
In reply to Mark Stevenson:
I agree with Mark here, the Ecrin was my first helmet so I didn't really appreciate how heavy it was until I bought a Salamander a few weeks back.
Saying that, it was abused all through the winter with no problems and although I know the Salamander will do the job just aswell, it just doesn't feel as if it will have anywhere near the lifespan of the Ecrin.
Try them all mate.
I agree with Mark here, the Ecrin was my first helmet so I didn't really appreciate how heavy it was until I bought a Salamander a few weeks back.
Saying that, it was abused all through the winter with no problems and although I know the Salamander will do the job just aswell, it just doesn't feel as if it will have anywhere near the lifespan of the Ecrin.
Try them all mate.
In reply to Mark Stevenson:
No! The Elios is OK, its not too high on your head. I think it looks pretty ok by helmet standards. You are right about ultralight though - very amusingly conehead.
I really want to know what people are doing to the meteors!
> PS Only other thing to consider is the apart for the Edelrid Ultralight, the Elios is probably the most unflattering to wear helemt on the market currently.
No! The Elios is OK, its not too high on your head. I think it looks pretty ok by helmet standards. You are right about ultralight though - very amusingly conehead.
I really want to know what people are doing to the meteors!
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:
Hehe! Bigmouth strikes again Thankfully not everyone has your head.
Hehe! Bigmouth strikes again Thankfully not everyone has your head.
In reply to diggers:
The Salewa Krypton is incredibly light and comfortable. Has an adjustable wheel on the back so you can get it to fit perfectly with or without a beany underneath and half the time I forget I'm even wearing it it's that good.
The Salewa Krypton is incredibly light and comfortable. Has an adjustable wheel on the back so you can get it to fit perfectly with or without a beany underneath and half the time I forget I'm even wearing it it's that good.
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