UKC

which rubber for a resole?

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 Kahti 09 Oct 2017
I'm going to send a pair of Vapour Vs and a pair of Solutions off for resole. Wondering whether to get them done in the same rubber as they came with (xs edge and xs grip2 respectively) or try grip2 on both or maybe stealth c4.
Have only had vibram rubber before and didn't notice a massive difference between the 2 tbh. Although I'm quite light (68kg) and have heard the edge comes into its own edging for heavier people. Have also heard plenty of people banging on about how good stealth rubber is.
Generally im of the opinion they're all pretty similar but as it's the same price for all need to decide.

So which rubber and why? Uses will be pretty much everything for the Vs - trad on different rock types, slabby bouldering outside, sport and boulder indoors, and save the Solutions for steeper harder outdoor stuff.
 Wayne S 09 Oct 2017
In reply to Kahti:

I had several pairs of Katana laces resoled in 5.10 C4 and they were good. In regard to XS edge and grip, I have edge on the Katana's and grip on the Solutions. In my view it does what it says on the tin, as in edge is a bit stiffer and edges well, grip edges less well but sticks smears well. If I was to get either re-soled I would still likely go with 5.10 rubber. All very personal and subjective I know. At least for my shape feet I think la Sportiva make better shoes but 5.10 is better rubber for stick (though if we are talking how hard wearing the the answer is reversed I think)
In reply to Kahti:
Although I’m a huge fan of Edge, I trialed a pair of Styx resoled in C4 and there’s no going back now. I have everything resoled in C4. Just took a trip to Font and they’re the best shoes I’ve ever had.
Just an FYI, I agree that you may be too light for Edge to operate properly.
blahblahblacksheep 10 Oct 2017
In reply to Kahti:

Generally indoor shoes I resole with stiffer rubber as it lasts longer, and outdoor shoes I use softer rubber as you will inevitably edge some on a smeary route and smear some on an edgey route, so might as well go with shoes that are more sensitive and more grippy!
 torquil 11 Oct 2017
In reply to Kahti:

Its pretty hard to do a decent resole on a Solution with C4 as its too stiff and thick to make a decent hollow shape - it's possible but you tend to deform the shoe more than I'd like, plus you already have a second layer of rubber on the SOlution so you end up with something quite clumpy. The Solution comes with XS Grip2 in 3.5mm, the C4 is 4.2mm and that's a huge difference. Even putting 4mm Edge on a Solution is not great.

The Vapor Vs are a fairly stiff construction inside anyway so you wont see a huge difference with the rubber change. Depending on which version of them you have they have either Edge or possibly the old Grip (the Grip2 is far better imo).

C4 is definitely stiffer - its pretty obvious to tell when you have them all as sheet rubbers - but it does make a difference which shoe you put it on. Anasazis have no stiffening in the shoe, even whites, so they totally rely on the rubber for stiffness (which is why they soften up so quickly). Scarpas and Sportivas all have a separate mid-sole stiffener if its meant to be a stiff shoe so they hold their shape and feel a lot longer.

In terms of gripiness, everyone has their own opinion as which is best which I think comes form the reality that there is very little difference between them.

Thats my 2 pence worth anyway, hope it is of some use.

Torquil - Llanberis Resoles.


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