/ Wild Country Revo - update
The article below, dated 29th May 2018 suggests a release date of next month (in the US). It went on (early)sale yesterday at REI and is indeed available on their website.
Granted it's in America, and the Americans have already had one release of the Revo and that didn't go very well.
It does however give an indication that the re-worked device is ready. Lets hope it doesn't start breaking randomly this time, and makes it to the UK.
Cant say the aesthetics do much for me, looks a bit naff.
Great idea in principle, but the lack of the ability to lock it off for working routes is a major deal breaker.
> Granted it's in America, and the Americans have already had one release of the Revo and that didn't go very well.
I'm finding it hard to keep up with this (but I'm interested in the Revo for its potential as a roped-soloing device).
Was the device *withdrawn* from sale in the US after its initial release? Has it since been modified? If so, in what way(s)?
Damn straight. $145 and the belayer can't rest while the leader's dogging and you can't use double ropes? Compared to old style Gri-gris for £50 online. I don't think it's going to sell very well with sport or trad climbers.
It looks fantastic and is an amazing idea, but I can only think it's of use for either really really poor belayers who's leaders want a back up, or really really advanced 'sprint' or 'sacrificial' belayers on hard grit type routes.
Does anyone know if the latch/ratchet thing that forms the safety lock on the central disc is held back by a spring or just overcomes its own weight at a 4 m/s fall?
So, will it work upside down (and be OK for belaying up a second and might be amazing for roped soloing) or will it constantly locking?
Or if it's got a spring, (it's probably not an issue given how well the springs in my Gri-gri and shunt are ageing) but what happens if the spring corrodes and gets stiffer? Springs can't get squishier over time can they (except at very high temperatures)? Or if the spring breaks - will the user notice because the Revo starts locking all the time at much lower speeds? And the spring's a cheap part to replace?
I works with a weighed arm that is sprun inwards so that it is pretensioned in the standard belaying state. As a fall occurs, the tension on this arm is overcome by the ropw wheel rotating more quickly, and as it rotates it basically knocks into a lump of aluminium which triggers one or other of the stainless pinch cheeks which then locks down on the rope. As to all your other questions I have no idea. But I'm fairly certain it will lock in any direction.
A few info points from the test model I've had:
Yes, you can lock off for working routes - there's a bit of trick to it but it works. You sort of have to let the rope slip for a second, or if you ask the climber to hold their weight for a moment then it's very easy.
The ideal rope size is somewhere around 9.4, with extremities on either end being a bit dodgy from either too much drag or not enough. This seems rope dependent though but <9mm was a bit interesting to say the least - although again I need to test it with a few other ropes as my 8.9 beal is notoriously slippy regardless of device. Thick ropes tend to drag unless you've got a skinny biner.
The brief amount of rope soloing I did worked well but I haven't had chance to test for practice falls much. The three I did below a bolt it caught fine, the one above I hit my backup knot 4m down the rope - so not ideal. Could be that I didn't have time to accelerate enough hence the need for further testing with a backup rope/belayer. Pete Whittaker also recommended a microtraxion behind the device to hold the rope weight - again, I didn't have this which could have played a role.
My advice would be to not compare it to the grigri as it's way more like a tube device with a safety function - it does this job very well indeed.
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