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well for me it's two pairs. the first were some wierd make that used air craft tire rubber. It was way too soft and bent around things rather than edging.
The other worst pair were some boreal aces that were so uncomfotable with the point in the toes being central and the agressive heel that I hobled when wearing them and they actaully inflamed my heel making it sore and swollen. The rubberamnd board lasted stiff sole was so crap that I couldn't smear in them either. Got a pair of 5:10 ascents after that, pure heaven and suddenly all my smears started sticking also...
The other worst pair were some boreal aces that were so uncomfotable with the point in the toes being central and the agressive heel that I hobled when wearing them and they actaully inflamed my heel making it sore and swollen. The rubberamnd board lasted stiff sole was so crap that I couldn't smear in them either. Got a pair of 5:10 ascents after that, pure heaven and suddenly all my smears started sticking also...
In reply to Woker:
Yeh, what was it with those aces? weren't they the ones which were supposed to "fit from the box". They hurt my feet so much when I tried a pair on I put them straight back in the box.
Erm, most painful rockshoes - Reflexes.
Worst in use? Boreal Zephyrs.
Most annoyingly bad? 5-10 pinks which fell apart after about two weekends of climbing.
Yeh, what was it with those aces? weren't they the ones which were supposed to "fit from the box". They hurt my feet so much when I tried a pair on I put them straight back in the box.
Erm, most painful rockshoes - Reflexes.
Worst in use? Boreal Zephyrs.
Most annoyingly bad? 5-10 pinks which fell apart after about two weekends of climbing.
In reply to Woker: worst pair were my first ever rock shoes. got them from decathlon - they were called one hook ( white with strange white bit on toe embedded in rubber- fuking hell no way could u heel hook were baggy as! )
mmmm ascents
mmmm ascents
In reply to Woker:
boreal bambas - too small and hurt
sportiva ghibli - too small again and hurt even more. i was taking these off mid route at one stage
now i wear comfu shoes and trad in slippers
boreal bambas - too small and hurt
sportiva ghibli - too small again and hurt even more. i was taking these off mid route at one stage
now i wear comfu shoes and trad in slippers
In reply to Woker:
My first pair of Aces, I rashly assumed the shop assistant knew what he was talking about when he told me to buy 1 1/2 sizes smaller than my shoe size. Somehow I coped for a year, and only ditched them when my toe nails went completely black after a long weekend's climbing!
My current best-ever shoes are also Aces, only these ones are actually 1/2 a size bigger than by shoes, and fit perfectly.
My first pair of Aces, I rashly assumed the shop assistant knew what he was talking about when he told me to buy 1 1/2 sizes smaller than my shoe size. Somehow I coped for a year, and only ditched them when my toe nails went completely black after a long weekend's climbing!
My current best-ever shoes are also Aces, only these ones are actually 1/2 a size bigger than by shoes, and fit perfectly.
In reply to Woker:
Boreal Diablos. Nothing wrong with the shoes themselves, but just didn't fit! Normally climbing shoes break in slightly over the first few uses, but these appeared to be trying to break my feet in instead.
Boreal Diablos. Nothing wrong with the shoes themselves, but just didn't fit! Normally climbing shoes break in slightly over the first few uses, but these appeared to be trying to break my feet in instead.
In reply to Woker:
worst: 5.10 pink ansazi lace ups - rubbish. - even worse than reebok transcenders.
worst: 5.10 pink ansazi lace ups - rubbish. - even worse than reebok transcenders.
In reply to GFoz:
i started out years ago with a pair of Fires that i was told were 'perfect for beginners'. Stopped climbing for a few years, got some Mythos and found that climbing was both easier than i'd thought, and enjoyable!
i started out years ago with a pair of Fires that i was told were 'perfect for beginners'. Stopped climbing for a few years, got some Mythos and found that climbing was both easier than i'd thought, and enjoyable!
In reply to Woker:
Surprise Bestards - advanced for their time but weird shaped slippers - a bit like weraring rubber winkle pickers!
Other than that those yellow red chillie things - murder on the feet.
Surprise Bestards - advanced for their time but weird shaped slippers - a bit like weraring rubber winkle pickers!
Other than that those yellow red chillie things - murder on the feet.
In reply to virgil:
What!!!????? The anasazi lace ups are the finest shoes ever made...
Worst, although i admire boreal for their forward thinking, the boreal matrix's. Too specific, amazing smearing, but you have to change your boots mid route if theres an edge about.
>
> worst: 5.10 pink ansazi lace ups - rubbish. - even worse than reebok transcenders.
> worst: 5.10 pink ansazi lace ups - rubbish. - even worse than reebok transcenders.
What!!!????? The anasazi lace ups are the finest shoes ever made...
Worst, although i admire boreal for their forward thinking, the boreal matrix's. Too specific, amazing smearing, but you have to change your boots mid route if theres an edge about.
In reply to Chris M:
nah, they are apalling compared to
a) ansazi velcros
b) the sportiva velcro things that were replaced by katanas- erm, grey and red things.
c) sportiva miura
d) sportiva testarossa.
and i broke my ankle in a pair. clearly their fault.
nah, they are apalling compared to
a) ansazi velcros
b) the sportiva velcro things that were replaced by katanas- erm, grey and red things.
c) sportiva miura
d) sportiva testarossa.
and i broke my ankle in a pair. clearly their fault.
In reply to Chris M:
Agreed - when they haven't yet fallen apart...
> What!!!????? The anasazi lace ups are the finest shoes ever made...
Agreed - when they haven't yet fallen apart...
In reply to Woker: went out and bought my first pair two weeks into a climbing course in a fit of enthusiasm. looked on the net and everyone said they should be really, like reaaly, tight. Bought a pair so tight I could edge like buggery, but couldnt smear at all. (d'oh)
Eight weeks later, and a bit wiser, I bought my second pair.
Eight weeks later, and a bit wiser, I bought my second pair.
In reply to JonC:
I have noted that for a while on RT the most commonly sold second hand shoe was boreal aces.......
I have noted that for a while on RT the most commonly sold second hand shoe was boreal aces.......
In reply to Woker:
Worst pair - 5.10 Ascents, smell very bad, get sweaty if it's hot which makes your feet roll, but what made them the worst is that two great big holes appeared in the toes after not very long, and they were marketed as "ultimate vertical milage shoe" (and pretty expensive). Pretty useless for heel hooking as well, although they were comfy.
My boreal Zens are a lot better.
Worst pair - 5.10 Ascents, smell very bad, get sweaty if it's hot which makes your feet roll, but what made them the worst is that two great big holes appeared in the toes after not very long, and they were marketed as "ultimate vertical milage shoe" (and pretty expensive). Pretty useless for heel hooking as well, although they were comfy.
My boreal Zens are a lot better.
In reply to Adders:
Xrays are pretty good also, and good value for money have you tried them ?
Xrays are pretty good also, and good value for money have you tried them ?
In reply to squeek:
agreed the ascents stink, I don't know anyone who hasn't had this problem.
agreed the ascents stink, I don't know anyone who hasn't had this problem.
In reply to Woker:
Some Boreal Stingers that were too small, still got them virtually unused, Make me an offer Size 9.5 if i remember.
Hijack turned classified, in one fluid movement.
Some Boreal Stingers that were too small, still got them virtually unused, Make me an offer Size 9.5 if i remember.
Hijack turned classified, in one fluid movement.
In reply to squeek:
Agreed with the Ascents.
Haven't found a really great pair except maybe my Anasazi Velcro's, but they didn't last very long. My new Dos Equis's seem really nice, but they're too new to say.
Agreed with the Ascents.
Haven't found a really great pair except maybe my Anasazi Velcro's, but they didn't last very long. My new Dos Equis's seem really nice, but they're too new to say.
In reply to Woker: Woolworth crepe soled gym plimsolls (trainers to you youngsters) with the rand cut off with a razor followed by proper rock boots - Hawkins Super Slips with hard shiny rubber sole -absolute crap
In reply to Woker: 5:10 pinks are the worst boot ever. I've had two pairs, both absolutely useless. The heel bags out so much that you can't even think about hooking and the stitching rips really easily. Give me a nice pair of Dos Equis anyday.
Karl
Karl
In reply to Woker:
Croft B3's - Completely Stiff so it was impossible to smear and with a razor sharp bit of plastic to bite into your heel.
My favourites are a pair of 12 year old Aces that have been resoled 3 times, there just extremely comfortable
Croft B3's - Completely Stiff so it was impossible to smear and with a razor sharp bit of plastic to bite into your heel.
My favourites are a pair of 12 year old Aces that have been resoled 3 times, there just extremely comfortable
In reply to Budge:
Seems like a clear case of horses for courses then ?
Seems like a clear case of horses for courses then ?
In reply to George Fisher:
Ooh, ooh, I'll take them. They can replace the last pair I bought off you which incidentally are my most uncomfortable pair of climbing shoes. They are unbearably painfull, they make my feet black for a week and now they're filled with something resembling asphalt but smelling like mouldy stilton. Nice.
There you go, classifieds to "wost pair of climbing shoes" in one easy U-turn.
Hope you get a climb in this w/e - weathers turning arse here. Might be the gym again
Ooh, ooh, I'll take them. They can replace the last pair I bought off you which incidentally are my most uncomfortable pair of climbing shoes. They are unbearably painfull, they make my feet black for a week and now they're filled with something resembling asphalt but smelling like mouldy stilton. Nice.
There you go, classifieds to "wost pair of climbing shoes" in one easy U-turn.
Hope you get a climb in this w/e - weathers turning arse here. Might be the gym again
In reply to Woker: looking back it has to be EB`s
In reply to naylor:
My Ist pair... Kamet Joshua-trees with a boot profile. They weren't that bad, but they were the worst I've owned.
My Ist pair... Kamet Joshua-trees with a boot profile. They weren't that bad, but they were the worst I've owned.
In reply to Paul Saunders:
Worst were a pair of Scarpa circa 1993 can't remember what they were called, but they had teflon soles and used to roll off anything resembling an edge.
Most uncomfortable were La Sportiva Tao used to suffer them just cause they were so good on slate.
Worst were a pair of Scarpa circa 1993 can't remember what they were called, but they had teflon soles and used to roll off anything resembling an edge.
Most uncomfortable were La Sportiva Tao used to suffer them just cause they were so good on slate.
In reply to Woker: Red chili somethings - gave 'em away in the end.
In reply to Woker:
First pair of rockboots I ever had were pretty bad -- the red and black Galibier PA's -- then I progressed to EB's which were the dogs danglies of their day -- everyone used them until the quality went tits up and they lost their virtual monopoly overnight.
Had a pair of Calanques -- soft suede uppers that disintegrated when in contact with rough rock, they were even supplied with a spare pair of soles, as the soft spongy sole unit wore out very quickly.
My present ones are pretty bad too, -- they've been banned from the house on account of the niff;o(
First pair of rockboots I ever had were pretty bad -- the red and black Galibier PA's -- then I progressed to EB's which were the dogs danglies of their day -- everyone used them until the quality went tits up and they lost their virtual monopoly overnight.
Had a pair of Calanques -- soft suede uppers that disintegrated when in contact with rough rock, they were even supplied with a spare pair of soles, as the soft spongy sole unit wore out very quickly.
My present ones are pretty bad too, -- they've been banned from the house on account of the niff;o(
In reply to Alan Stark:
A mate still has his Suede covered Galabiers, and they would be great with sticky rubber on them He managed to lead E2/3 in them thirty plus years ago. Still flexible where it matters.
A mate still has his Suede covered Galabiers, and they would be great with sticky rubber on them He managed to lead E2/3 in them thirty plus years ago. Still flexible where it matters.
In reply to Woker: scarpa helix.if you have a ;pair bin them.get 5.10's your grade will go up instantly
In reply to sutty:
Bet they were the all suede RD's -- they tended to last for ever. The Black & Red ones soles would never wear out, the red suede was indestructible, but the canvas uppers eventually went in to big holes which were mended with canvas & evo stik, which lasted for another year.!
Asolo Canyons also went on for ever, and also were the rolls royce in comfort.
Bet they were the all suede RD's -- they tended to last for ever. The Black & Red ones soles would never wear out, the red suede was indestructible, but the canvas uppers eventually went in to big holes which were mended with canvas & evo stik, which lasted for another year.!
Asolo Canyons also went on for ever, and also were the rolls royce in comfort.
In reply to Alan Stark:
Yes the all suede uppers.
funny how no british maker managed to get things right, Late EBs, Hawkins, Croft B something, the worst boot ever apart from the Hawkins. Even Kletts were better.
Fires opened my eyes to the possibilities, someone followed me up a route on Etive in them and while I dithered in my good EBs they romped up. Of course they did not have to put their head on for it.
Yes the all suede uppers.
funny how no british maker managed to get things right, Late EBs, Hawkins, Croft B something, the worst boot ever apart from the Hawkins. Even Kletts were better.
Fires opened my eyes to the possibilities, someone followed me up a route on Etive in them and while I dithered in my good EBs they romped up. Of course they did not have to put their head on for it.
The worst pair climbing shoes I never owned were Red Chilli Voodoo's, I tried some on in the shop and decided that they were trying to break my foot in half.
My heart goes out to anyone who has to put with wearing them
My heart goes out to anyone who has to put with wearing them
In reply to Woker:
5.10 Anasazi velcros - great shoes but such crap build quality - and that really annoys me after forking out £67. They started falling apart after a few months moderate use. Can't see me wasting the money again, which is a shame as they have helped my footwork no end.
Rich
5.10 Anasazi velcros - great shoes but such crap build quality - and that really annoys me after forking out £67. They started falling apart after a few months moderate use. Can't see me wasting the money again, which is a shame as they have helped my footwork no end.
Rich
In reply to Woker: "Calanques" - EB lookalikes with soles that wore out in days. So soft that they sent you another pair of soles - which I think I've still got. Best - Anasazi lace ups.
In reply to Woker: Boreal Zephyr
In reply to Woker:
My first pair. A second hand pair of Ebs that were so big I had to where two pairs of thick mountain socks to make them fit.
My first pair. A second hand pair of Ebs that were so big I had to where two pairs of thick mountain socks to make them fit.
My vote goes to Calanques - well promoted but completely useless - soft, bulky etc.
I also had a pair of Kamet something or others (green suede) which lasted for about 2 days before the suede split....bit of a shame cos I bought them specially for my 'holiday of a lifetime' to Yosemite!!
I also had a pair of Kamet something or others (green suede) which lasted for about 2 days before the suede split....bit of a shame cos I bought them specially for my 'holiday of a lifetime' to Yosemite!!
In reply to Woker:
Most incrediblyfootbleedinglysore - some yellow (with black stripes) - think they were Boreal. I gave them away.
Worst overall - uncomfy, crap rubber and stunk. Boreal Aces.
Most incrediblyfootbleedinglysore - some yellow (with black stripes) - think they were Boreal. I gave them away.
Worst overall - uncomfy, crap rubber and stunk. Boreal Aces.
In reply to Woker:
Another vote for Boreal Aces. I could forgive the lack of personal fit (you should only buy shoes that fit, or will mould so it was my bad purchase decision), but the soles were so thick and hard that you couldn't feel anything through them.
Another vote for Boreal Aces. I could forgive the lack of personal fit (you should only buy shoes that fit, or will mould so it was my bad purchase decision), but the soles were so thick and hard that you couldn't feel anything through them.
All climbing shoes use ex air craft tire rubber as it gets grippier the more it is used.
In reply to Woker: Boreal Lasers. fusion rubber is pants.
In reply to Woker:
red chilli sausalito - loose as a mexican lady who'll give you pleasure for a handful of peanuts.
You cannot edge in them at all!
Also - the rubber insole cracked across the toe (after 3 months) - they gave me a replacement pair free of charge and the same thing happened 2 months later...
red chilli sausalito - loose as a mexican lady who'll give you pleasure for a handful of peanuts.
You cannot edge in them at all!
Also - the rubber insole cracked across the toe (after 3 months) - they gave me a replacement pair free of charge and the same thing happened 2 months later...
In reply to jam:
I'm going to speak up for Aces. They were THE middle grade climber's shoe of choice for many years and they were as advanced as any in that role in their day. You could keep them on all day sure in the knowledge that a) your toes and foot arches wouldn't be crippled and b) they wouldn't fall to bits or wear out within 3 months.
With more and more emphasis on shorter routes and boulders and greater disposable income, priorities have changed. Even relative beginners are looking to do technical projects and are willing to pay the price of rubber the consistancy cheese wearing out all the time and their shoes falling to bits every 6 months.
The Ace is still an OK shoe for what it was designed for but not for what most people seem to want their shoes for nowadays.
I'm going to speak up for Aces. They were THE middle grade climber's shoe of choice for many years and they were as advanced as any in that role in their day. You could keep them on all day sure in the knowledge that a) your toes and foot arches wouldn't be crippled and b) they wouldn't fall to bits or wear out within 3 months.
With more and more emphasis on shorter routes and boulders and greater disposable income, priorities have changed. Even relative beginners are looking to do technical projects and are willing to pay the price of rubber the consistancy cheese wearing out all the time and their shoes falling to bits every 6 months.
The Ace is still an OK shoe for what it was designed for but not for what most people seem to want their shoes for nowadays.
In reply to GrahamD:
slightly off subject, I have owned some pretty rank climbing chalk.
How
Well, when I was a student I was, of course, skint. A mate of mine reckoned he could get climbing chalk for free of his old man.
so the next week he turned up at the Richard Dunn wall ( lots of nice inset polished rock in a DR wall) and we all took our fill of his unending supply of white stuff.
Off I trotted, and did my party piece which was a traverse of the top wall, about 30 foot above a wooden floor. I dipped nervously into my chalk bag and went for the polished sloper, The next thing I know I was plunging sideways, my bowels went loose and I just about managed to keep my left crimp. Shitting it, I down climbed and asked my friend WTF was in my bag.
"chalk" he replied "from my dad's engineering workshop"
Turns out he had given us some sort of silica which is used as a dry lubricant and in turn made your fingers into teflon.
Happen I might put some in FH's bag next time he does TPS.
slightly off subject, I have owned some pretty rank climbing chalk.
How
Well, when I was a student I was, of course, skint. A mate of mine reckoned he could get climbing chalk for free of his old man.
so the next week he turned up at the Richard Dunn wall ( lots of nice inset polished rock in a DR wall) and we all took our fill of his unending supply of white stuff.
Off I trotted, and did my party piece which was a traverse of the top wall, about 30 foot above a wooden floor. I dipped nervously into my chalk bag and went for the polished sloper, The next thing I know I was plunging sideways, my bowels went loose and I just about managed to keep my left crimp. Shitting it, I down climbed and asked my friend WTF was in my bag.
"chalk" he replied "from my dad's engineering workshop"
Turns out he had given us some sort of silica which is used as a dry lubricant and in turn made your fingers into teflon.
Happen I might put some in FH's bag next time he does TPS.
In reply to Woker:
The prize has to go to the injection moulded EB's that replaced the originals in about 1981. To destroy a global monopoly in the space of three months a product has to be spectacularly bad, and this was it. I was spared a pair by seeing a mate fail to stand on a common or garden hold that required no thought whatsoever in the old version. I stuck my old ones back together with gaffer tape until something else turned up - chouinard contacts I think, which weren't brilliant but way better than the alternative.
The prize has to go to the injection moulded EB's that replaced the originals in about 1981. To destroy a global monopoly in the space of three months a product has to be spectacularly bad, and this was it. I was spared a pair by seeing a mate fail to stand on a common or garden hold that required no thought whatsoever in the old version. I stuck my old ones back together with gaffer tape until something else turned up - chouinard contacts I think, which weren't brilliant but way better than the alternative.
In reply to John Rushby:
I've seen someone trying to use classroom chalk to little effect. Not quite as drastic as Teflon mind !
I've seen someone trying to use classroom chalk to little effect. Not quite as drastic as Teflon mind !
In reply to Lucas:
no they aren't.
> All climbing shoes use ex air craft tire rubber as it gets grippier the more it is used.
no they aren't.
In reply to Woker:
Loved my old Boreal Zephyrs... really hate my new red Zen's. To the extent that I would rather wear the Zephyrs with the holes in rather then subject my poor toes to the torture that is those horrible foot mutilators.
Or maybe they just need breaking in...
Loved my old Boreal Zephyrs... really hate my new red Zen's. To the extent that I would rather wear the Zephyrs with the holes in rather then subject my poor toes to the torture that is those horrible foot mutilators.
Or maybe they just need breaking in...
In reply to GrahamD:
I beg to differ, and should probably have put more detail in my first post. When I bought them in '94, Aces were widely regarded to be excellent shoes and they did indeed seem to be made quite well. However, my basis of comparison back then was a pair of La Sportiva Mythos. The Mythos could also be worn all day and seemed to last a long time, but had a degree of sensitivity that the Aces just couldn't compete with. (This difference in sensitivity was of course because of use of slip- rather than board-lasting)
Back then I recall thinking that the sole support offered by shoes like the Aces was supposed to be crutch for newer climbers who hadn't developed their calves enough to support longer routes. I just prefered the idea of putting up with sewing-machine-leg sessions until my legs got stronger. I guess the Aces were good for long routes that involved standing on the tips of the toes the whole way up, but even back then I thought they were not a good all-round climbing shoe at all.
I think they are still being sold today though, so obviously my opinion is exactly that
I beg to differ, and should probably have put more detail in my first post. When I bought them in '94, Aces were widely regarded to be excellent shoes and they did indeed seem to be made quite well. However, my basis of comparison back then was a pair of La Sportiva Mythos. The Mythos could also be worn all day and seemed to last a long time, but had a degree of sensitivity that the Aces just couldn't compete with. (This difference in sensitivity was of course because of use of slip- rather than board-lasting)
Back then I recall thinking that the sole support offered by shoes like the Aces was supposed to be crutch for newer climbers who hadn't developed their calves enough to support longer routes. I just prefered the idea of putting up with sewing-machine-leg sessions until my legs got stronger. I guess the Aces were good for long routes that involved standing on the tips of the toes the whole way up, but even back then I thought they were not a good all-round climbing shoe at all.
I think they are still being sold today though, so obviously my opinion is exactly that
In reply to jam:
I guess I have a slight soft spot for Aces because they were my first 'real' rock shoes and I did my first HS/VS/HVS/E1 in them. I still have a pair consigned to the climbing wall.
I guess I have a slight soft spot for Aces because they were my first 'real' rock shoes and I did my first HS/VS/HVS/E1 in them. I still have a pair consigned to the climbing wall.
In reply to Woker: All scarpa shoes - have a collection of almost unused pairs but have now learnt my lesson.
In reply to Alison Bond: I've just had to replace my Zen's and they were much lamented! They take a while to break in but 2 weeks in Font sorted that. They were really comfy before they died!!
In reply to Mark Scott: Worst pair would also have to be my first pair
Kamet Joshua Tree's the last of the boot style shoes..... god they were useless - even by my punter like standards!
Kamet Joshua Tree's the last of the boot style shoes..... god they were useless - even by my punter like standards!
In reply to Woker:
Funny story. Thankfully I've never had such shoes from hell. My worst pair were my first pair - I wore them for years, partly out of naivety.
They were and ancient pair of 5.10's. You know, the kind with full ankle support and big rubber soles. They were well worn but, to me, they were fine. I used to walk in with them on, climb a multi-pitch and walk out. No problem. I'd wear them all day.
When I finally bought a pair of modern shoes my climbing went up a whole grade (at least) immediately!
But I still miss my beasty pair of boots.
Funny story. Thankfully I've never had such shoes from hell. My worst pair were my first pair - I wore them for years, partly out of naivety.
They were and ancient pair of 5.10's. You know, the kind with full ankle support and big rubber soles. They were well worn but, to me, they were fine. I used to walk in with them on, climb a multi-pitch and walk out. No problem. I'd wear them all day.
When I finally bought a pair of modern shoes my climbing went up a whole grade (at least) immediately!
But I still miss my beasty pair of boots.
In reply to Woker: As a boulderer 5:10 ascents!Newbie boulderers beware, attempted heel hooks onto/into anything less than the width of your shoe will result in embarassment.
What is it with Aces being recomended for beginners? I've got a pair still munching my feet (I've always put the agony down to ingrowing toenails, but having seen the complaints here I'm less sure). Is it just because the soles are so thick you can drag them over a cheese grater without having to buy a new pair?
In reply to psd: My first shoes were Aces and i`d agree they were crap. The one positive thing is how much you appreciate a decent pair afterwards.
these crappy old scarpa helix's ive got. they are very poor.
but exceelent build quality so i can thrash them on the granite.
QUESTION"::::
which shoes should i buy for some technical edges in the verdon gorge soon? (gloat!) i was looking at the boreal spiders? anyone had any experience?
cheers.
Neil.
but exceelent build quality so i can thrash them on the granite.
QUESTION"::::
which shoes should i buy for some technical edges in the verdon gorge soon? (gloat!) i was looking at the boreal spiders? anyone had any experience?
cheers.
Neil.
In reply to Neil Morbey:
You'll be on your toes a lot - anything that allows you to 'grab' small pockets. Lucky sod.
You'll be on your toes a lot - anything that allows you to 'grab' small pockets. Lucky sod.
In reply to psd:
There is a big difference between crap boots and ones that don't fit. I wouldn't call those pink 5.10 things, beloved it seems by practically everyone, crap just because they are agony on my feet.
Crap because they fall to pieces, maybe.
There is a big difference between crap boots and ones that don't fit. I wouldn't call those pink 5.10 things, beloved it seems by practically everyone, crap just because they are agony on my feet.
Crap because they fall to pieces, maybe.
In reply to Mark Scott:
They are not a terribly 'technical' boot, are they. On the plus side they are practically C1 crampon compatible.
> Kamet Joshua Tree's the last of the boot style shoes..... god they were useless - even by my punter like standards!
They are not a terribly 'technical' boot, are they. On the plus side they are practically C1 crampon compatible.
In reply to psd:
From my experience, it's down to the usual "buy them too small" advice. With Aces, this just doesn't work, too small and they just cripple you (presumably since they're relatively rigid). But buy them at (or even above) your shoe size and they're excellent - possibly not for harder routes but that's not likely to bother me.
> What is it with Aces being recomended for beginners? I've got a pair still munching my feet
From my experience, it's down to the usual "buy them too small" advice. With Aces, this just doesn't work, too small and they just cripple you (presumably since they're relatively rigid). But buy them at (or even above) your shoe size and they're excellent - possibly not for harder routes but that's not likely to bother me.
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
It's also the mistaken assumption that the shoes will adjust to your foot shape, which they certainly will not. Those things are built with the mouldability of wooden clogs.
It's also the mistaken assumption that the shoes will adjust to your foot shape, which they certainly will not. Those things are built with the mouldability of wooden clogs.
In reply to jam:
I'm just lucky that they're the right shape for my feet I think.
I'm just lucky that they're the right shape for my feet I think.
In reply to Adders:
How come you get to say 'f*cking hell' without getting zapped?
> (In reply to Woker) worst pair were my first ever rock shoes. got them from decathlon - they were called one hook ( white with strange white bit on toe embedded in rubber- fuking hell no way could u heel hook were baggy as! )
>
> mmmm ascents
>
> mmmm ascents
How come you get to say 'f*cking hell' without getting zapped?
In reply to estivator: because it was 2 weeks ago.
In reply to Adders:
la sportiva ghiblis.
utter utter rubbish.
and they made my feet go extra bright blue.
la sportiva ghiblis.
utter utter rubbish.
and they made my feet go extra bright blue.
In reply to Neil Morbey: "which shoes should i buy for some technical edges in the verdon gorge soon?"
Ones that fit you properly?
"i was looking at the boreal spiders?"
Do they fit you properly?
"anyone had any experience?"
I'm sure they have, but as their feet will be a different shape to yours, they can only really tell you so much.
Ones that fit you properly?
"i was looking at the boreal spiders?"
Do they fit you properly?
"anyone had any experience?"
I'm sure they have, but as their feet will be a different shape to yours, they can only really tell you so much.
In reply to Anonymous:
Oh come on... be serious, now. I've got a pair, and my grades are skyrocketing as a result. They are a bit tight, but what do you expect, a built-in foot spa?! Anyway, my worst ones were a pair from Decathlon, the French sports superstore. Shitty yellow things that the toes curled upwards in! More like clown's shoes!
Oh come on... be serious, now. I've got a pair, and my grades are skyrocketing as a result. They are a bit tight, but what do you expect, a built-in foot spa?! Anyway, my worst ones were a pair from Decathlon, the French sports superstore. Shitty yellow things that the toes curled upwards in! More like clown's shoes!
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