When it comes to walking on the Lleyn, it is Yr Eifl upon which most eyes and ambitions are fixed. Quite rightly, this triptych of inviting peaks attract a great deal of attention, even from those that don’t normally climb hills. For seasoned hillwalkers, an enjoyable few hours can be spent summiting the tops and exploring the iron age hill fort of Tre y Ceiri, but ever present is the nagging feeling that the walking hereabouts isn’t quite the ‘real thing’. A few kilometres east, however, lies a compact range of peaks where the walking more closely resembles an authentic mountain experience. Barely breaching the 500 metre contour, Gyrn Ddu’s crevassed summit is every bit as rugged as anything nearby Eryri can offer, while at 492m, Gyrn Goch belies its Lilliputian dimensions by rising straight out of the sea to arrive at an airy apex, a true peak in every sense. Beyond is Bwlch Mawr which can be bolted on to provide a longer mission but introduces a degree of artificiality and ruins the ‘shape’ of the day. You’ll see few, if any, others on your travels and will wonder why, such is the calibre of this splendid route.
