UKC

I'm hoping one of the builder types or competant DIYers on here can help me.
I need to level out my garage floor, it has a slope of about 2" over a length of 7'.
I have just installed a roller garage door and it needs to sit on a level base.
What is the best way to do it? I have thought about making a threshold out of cement but it would have a feather edge at one side which I think would break away, so I thought of using self levelling compound to level out a larger area around the door. I was look at some in B&Q but it says it can be used to level up to 15mm "unfilled" or 50mm "filled". What is filled or unfilled?
Is there any other way of levelling up this bit of floor?

In reply to DreadyCraig:
I would be tempted ,initially at least, to just to bolt down a 7' tapered hardwood 'doorstep' about 3" or 4" wide starting at say 1/4" or 1/2" thick on end and 2-1/4" to 2-1/2" thick the other, so the middle would be still quite low enough to run a car over, and then think about leveling the rest of the floor to that height at a later date.
(if I felt it necessary)

Get your circular saw (and or, electric planer) out or ask the timber merchant to pre cut it at an appropriate taper!

2" deep sound too much for leveling compound to me.

In reply to DreadyCraig:

self levelling compound is fine for putting down as a substrate to something else, but wouldnt be hard wearing enough if left uncovered.

In reply to Jim C:

Been thinking of something similar in my garage - the floor is anything but level

It slopes slightly towards the door and noticeably from left to right, such that there is a gap of nearly 2 inches under one side of the door.

Unfortunately, any sort of lip there will be a pain to get the motorbike over and a bit of a trip hazard.

In reply to LastBoyScout & JimC.

Was thinking along similar lines but fit the wedge to the bottom of the door...OK if it's a drop down door, possible problems if the doors are hinged.

In reply to Lusk:

Mine is an up and over. I wanted to fill the gap partly to stop drafts and was thinking about knocking up a draft excluder by screwing some strips of carpet to the bottom edge of the door.

In reply to DreadyCraig:

You could chisel/diamond cutter out a section and re-concrete a section – say 6/12 inches (150/300mm) wide. You could cement the new piece level with the lowest part (or even slightly lower to avoid rain running into the garage), then use a chisel diamond cutter/grinder to taper off the higher garage floor.

For ease…I like the bolted piece of hardwood.

You could also look at some Epoxy Resin Mortar Repair compound to build up what you already have….quite dear though…you would need to “key” the existing surface a bit first. Example:-

http://www.directa.co.uk/site/scripts/product_browse.php?product_id=103

Again…slope outwards to avoid water running in

In reply to DreadyCraig:

Self levelling compound is basically an epoxy resin, (similar to araldite). For levelling a floor for linoleum in a kitchen, you would possible only spread it a few mm’s deep, so would use it, as is.

For thicker usages, i.e. filling larger holes in floors you would mix in a filler such as sand or glass fibre to bulk it up, (a bit like the sand in real cement). The filler is supplied with the epoxy.

In reply to moonraker:

Really? I always thought it was more like a heavy duty plaster.

In reply to LastBoyScout:

"Epoxy Resin Mortar Repair compound"....the clue is in the "Epoxy Resin"
part of the title!!!

I believe that some/most modern (the darker coloured stuff) has an added synthetic adhesive mixed into it, i.e. PVA or possibly epoxy.

As far as I know, normal basic sand render does not, although the renderer may well add a bit of pva as he mixes it (not on whole house or new housing estates work – to expensive I would have thought!!).

In reply to moonraker:

I've only ever heard it referred to as "Self Leveling Compound" and I've never bought any, so not read the packaging.