UKC

I have nabbed a stove off my dads boat and want to put it in my house!

Its an ancient house, and would have had a stove or range when it was first built, the chimney breast is more than large enough for it. It has an open fireplace at the moment.

I am guessing I:

1. Knock the old fireplace out.
2. Wire brush everything that needs it.
3. Grout and tile the inner surfaces of the fire hole.
4. Run a stainless steel double wall tube/flue, clamped at the top of the chimney down to the base of the chimney.
5. Fit it through a steel plate sealing the chimney off.
6. Put the stove in place.


Erm... Does this sound ok?!

Mat

In reply to matnoo: Look at the building/fie regs for distances from combustable materials

In reply to matnoo:

Unless it's installed by a Hetas registered engineer then you need to notify building control at your local council.

This site's quite useful and has links to the relevant regulations

http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/

In reply to matnoo:

The main bit you've missed out is ensuring the room has dedicated ventilation. If the stove can kick out more than 5kW then you need a permanent vent of 550 sq mm per extra kW.

In reply to brothersoulshine:

Are you serious? In that case just about every home that has an open fireplace must be breaking the law. We had two coal burning fireplaces once and neither room had a vent. Having said that surely fires by their very nature draw air into the room? If the wind blew in the wrong direction our fires wouldn't light for toffee because the chimney was not drawing properly.

In reply to Jon Dittman:

Presumably, as it's off a boat, it won't be more than 5kw. But BSS is correct, it's in the regs.

In reply to brothersoulshine:

isnt that for gas appliances?

In reply to brothersoulshine: Have you installed your wood burner yet?

In reply to woolsack:

Nearly there, it's becoming a bit of a saga now!

In reply to SI A:

No

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_ADJ_2002.pdf

page 24.

John, I guess the regs apply to new installations, maybe not retrospectively.

In reply to brothersoulshine:

A bit of an aga?

In reply to Ridge:

Now, those do need vast amounts of extra ventilation...

In reply to matnoo: Is the chimney already lined? You don't need a shoot from the chimney to the fire if the chimney is already lined.

In reply to matnoo: i had one installed in my edinburgh tenament flat...cost £1200 to get the chimney lined, dig out the fire place, line it with heat proof panels, lay some slate tiles and plaster. They also put a little door in the steel plate that seals of the chimney so you can sweep between the liner and the chimney for some reason.
Didn't look to hard to do if you know what your doing but since i've got lots of neighbours i didn't fancy trying it myself.

Have just done the same and have had some odd / interesting advice from the sweep - he said dont line the chinmey but do add a proper chinmey pot (on top) and bird cowel to the top to stop birds / crap / rain getting in.

Also said that fire grouting was unnecessary .. but its warm and great and i get free wood .. how cool is that

In reply to Jon Dittman:

Have you ever dealt with building regs?
We converted the loft at our last house. Had to comply with all these thicknesses of insulation for noise and warmth, then they specified 7 massive vents, each the size of an F1-11 air intake to go on the pitched part of the roof, plus another 4 ridge vents. There was a permanent howling gale blowing round the place as the inspector stroked his chin and fretted if there was enough ventilation...

In reply to matnoo:
I fitted one the other year and your approach is roughly what I did. The only difference I did was I used fireproof plasterboard to create the area that the fire sat in. This was cheaper than fire bricks and met the regulations. The metal plate is called a register plate. I made mine by making a frame out of angle iron that sat against the fireproof plasterboard just up inside the chimney. I then used mild steel plate to make the register plate. This is screwed to the angle iron. Any small gaps can be filled with intremescent sealer, larger ones with fire cement. I then cut a hole in it for the fire exhaust to go through. I was told not to line the chimney as old houses didn't need this. I found creating and building my own was much more fun than paying someone to do it.
Good luck

In reply to matnoo:

You don't *have* to line the chimney if it is already lined. However, it can be beneficial to do so. If you do, then you should also fill out the space between the tube and the chimney with vermiculite. This insulates the tube so that the gases remain hot all the way up - that way you get much less tar and soot clogging the liner.

The right cowl is important too, and if you're fitting a boiler to the back, then the tank needs to be as near vertically over the boiler as possible and have a vent (can't do closed, pressurised hot water systems off backboilers).

We have just had a thermal store put in with new boiler and also rigged solar panels and a back-boiler on the wood-burner to it. Roasty toasty!

J

In reply to Ridge:

We had an inspector who insisted that water draining from an existing roof should be directed not into the existing drain (as per previous arrangement), but instead into a soakaway in the centre of the current garden, in the full knowledge, that, this being the North Pennines, it would turn the lawn into a quag for six months of the year. So we neatly laid out the pipework for him to inspect, then rearranged it back into the existing drain as his car rolled away back to the council offices.

In reply to hutchm:

Yep. Those roof vents were a sod to block up though...

In reply to Ridge:
I wanted to have cavity wall insulation installed last year. What a faff. I have a big open fire in the kitchen (ideal for dealing with children- therre's even a huge oven on the side, and of course the fire makes the Best Toast In The World {TM}) , and a little gas fake one in the sitting room. The vents etc would have actually made the house colder, so I had to abandon the whole idea. The installers kept trying to persuade me otherwise, no doubt worried at the loss of the sale, but I pointed out that I already had plenty of ventilation, thank you, it's called a back door, and NO WAY was I going to have inch-wide holes drilled through my kitchen/sitting room door, and bloody great holes punched through every outside wall.

It has all come about because people really don't have sense to ensure they thay do have sufficient ventilation- with open fires, having a roomful of smoke is a bit of an obvious sign, but for those running gas fires there is a bit of a point.

So, no insulation. Arse.

Sxx

In reply to matnoo:

I've done this! Make sure you seal the base of chimney using a decent heat proof sealant otherwise your front room fills with acrid black smoke; not to mention all the soot and old shit that gets disloged by the rising hot air!

consider using a angle/connector pipe things (the top of my stove didn't line up with the chimney, no matter how much I hit it with a hammer/kicked it) and paint it with heat proof paint.

Stock up with logs - you'll set a fire at the drop of a hat. Oh, and set an alarm. You know you'll pour a little drop of whisky, put ur feet up in front of the fire and hey presto! It's half past three in the morning!!!

In reply to matnoo:



It sounds like you're inetendgin to put a fabricated flue up throught the old chimmney cavity. If so you don't need to seal it off, make a feature out of the brickwork. But SS double wall is nearly 100squid a metre, so a much cheaper option is a flexible flue liner wrapped in wire wool held in place with chicken wire. This IS legal but looks shit so you probably would seal off the chimeny.
Enjoy