UKC

Hello

I need to replace a laminate kitchen worktop (just one). The one I need to replace butts in to another one to form a corner. I'm also skint at the moment so I'm thinking how I could do this myself with minimum expenditure. I'm wondering if I could use the existing damaged piece as a template for cutting the new piece?

Any advice from people with experience of this would be greatly appreciate.

In reply to Papillon:

the joint you are looking to make is called a "mason's mitre joint" often called a "mason mitre joint"

templates to cut the shape and route out the mason bolt incuts are available from the diy sheds, but aren't cheap.

you can hand cut using a circular saw (table saw is better) and a hand held router if you are careful whilst marking out, and yes you can take the measurements from the old boards.

i seriously suggest trying this out on scrap board first (possibly pieces of your old worktop?) as one mistake and you have cost yourself a lot on money.

note: when using a circular saw the blade cuts upwards - so have the laminate side of the worktop on the bottom - this helps to prevent chipping.
use a good thin sharp saw blade at high speed.
clamp a rail to the worktop and run the saw against that.

if you are thinking of doing it with a jigsaw - just don't!

In reply to satori: Thanks for your reply.

I've found a timber yard which will supply the replacent worktop with the corner cut to the old one, at a reasonable cost. I might go for this to minimise risk. This will leave me with the sink cut-out to do (they can't do this, as it will break in transit), I'm geussing I'll need a router to get the corners right?

Mike

In reply to Papillon:

if they will do the mitre at a reasonable price - do it. they will do it much better than you can.
don't forget to seal the edges of both the old and new boards.

scrape the rough stuff off the old board then seal both by forcing a thin smear of silicone into the rough chipboard.
i advise sealing the back edge of the board in this way also.

when you put the mitre joint together add another squirt of silicone to the mating surfaces and push the joint together.
tighten the mason bolts and then carefully wipe any excess silicone from the worktop surface.


depend what sort of sink?

sit-on or inset? ie. will you see the cut edged of the worktop that you have cut out.

most inset arrangements are for timber or stone tops. i assume you will have a sit on sink?
use the old worktop cut-out as a template. mark the new worktop and cut out with a jigsaw.

the edges don't need to be perfect if you cant see them!
vey important to seal the edges as above and also add a line of silicone on the surface of the worktop around the edge of the cutout to provide a seal between the worktop and the sink top when you lower it in.

notes:

1. jigsaws also cut on the upstroke. us a fine blade on high speed. it's best to turn the top upside down (and your template top) and mark and cut from the bottom).
2. routers can be used to do sink cutouts. you have to do multi-passes to cut through the depth. it's only necessary if the edge is to be on view and a template and guide wheel are recommended.
3. dry fit everything first before adding silicon - just to make sure it all works.
4. you can get coloured silicon - particularly useful for very dark worktops etc. you don't want a white joint line in a 'granite' top.

In reply to satori: I have a sit in sink so won't see the edges..... jigsaw it is.

Many thanks for your post and advice, I owe you a pint!

In reply to Papillon:
just one addition to Sartori's excellent advice re cutting out the sink hole

Make sure you have plenty of blades; they do break easy

Also a cheap cop out to doing the masons joint is to buy an aluminium fillet that fills the gap between straight end of one piece with the curved edge of the other

In reply to kevin stephens:

true.


though much cheaper than the manufacture and fitting of a mason's mitre most local authority housing authorities reject this option on a hygiene and longevity (water ingress) basis.

In reply to Papillon: hint - if you can, get some of the seal tape they supply with new sinks. it looks like blue tack and is dead easy to use, giving a neat, good seal. Iv recently fitted a ceramic using this stuff

In reply to satori:

And if the original join was a mason's mitre there's no chance of being able to use a jointing strip because both pieces of laminate are cut to make the join.