/ Little chamonix
Just got back from a trip to Shepards crag where my brother and I did little Chamonix, we've talked about doing it for ages so it was great to get on the route, even it was a little slimy.
Whilst getting geared up for the route the local mountain rescue outfit, set up a simulated rescue from the top with stretcher and all, and lowered it down the route.
It got me wondering, did they do this on this specific route because it is one the most climbed routes in the uk, so therefore more likely to be an accident there?
I managed to get some photos and video, it was a little surreal trying to find my way across the saddle and on to the slab with a stretcher, pretend casualty, an abseil rescuer and a photographer all hanging directly above!!
Maybe they'd sized you up and thought they'd get a headstart...
Probably, not far off the truth either!
Feckin topropers have no place on a crag!;)
Ha, well it did make me wonder.
But then again it makes sense with so many people climbing the route to have the potential rescue scenario well rehearsed.
All good fun, memorable for sure
Is it still loose on the top pitch ?
No, i didn't notice anything
It was sound in the sixties but the last time I did it I got a surprise. It's a spectacular lead but, I agree, not recommended as a first.
I might be a wimp, but when I led it as a younger and vastly less experienced v. diff leader, the final pitch was the least of my worries compared to the pitch before it. Still need to go back, lead it again and prove a point to myself. I'm not sure what the point is, but I feel a need to prove it...
crossing the tabletop over the bottomless gap?
Yeah - my less experienced self couldn't find any worthwhile gear on the block, but placed a poor unextended cam anywhere. Took me a while to figure out how to actually cross the gap, quickly traversed to the arete, placed a bomber unextended hex and started to make upwards progress. The problem was the single rope now went from the belayer up the slab, across the block, around the arete, and then up. By the time I was below the saddle I couldn't move for rope drag. Got a bit stressed, pulled the bomber hex out which only increased the stress, and eventually clawed my way into a sitting position on the saddle.
It took some time to calm myself.
Fantastic route though.
Of these things are climbers made.
You're not wrong there. And of those things lessons about rope drag are also swiftly learnt!
Eliot Stephens has returned from a fantastic two week trip to Magic Wood where he climbed , a Bernd Zangerl 8B+. Eliot also... Read more
Away from the mayhem of the Eastern Edges, the Roaches enjoys a unique atmosphere of its own. Amongst this mind-boggling cluster... Read more
Berghaus has joined forces with an international expedition team as part of a women's product development initiative.... Read more
An uncompromisingly technical climbing pack, the Montane Ultra 38+5 is stripped to its most efficient minimum. Designed to be as... Read more
In this series of articles, Tom Ripley interviews some well-known climbing partnerships to dig up their dirty secrets and find... Read more