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Asymmetrical climbing

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Sarah 20 Mar 2002
I've realised that whenever my muscles are stiff after climbing, the stiffness is in different places on my left and right hand sides. I'm wondering if this is an indication that I don't climb symmetrically - favouring my dominant hand (and presumably, therefore, having assymetrical footwork as well). Anyone else climb 'wonky' & are there any how to fix it?
stonemaster 20 Mar 2002
In reply to Sarah: I am assuming that this is mainly after climbing in the gym. I find that I use a different route/ or problem that makes me use the opposite muscles, in the end the aches and stiffness become more balanced. Alternatively, choose a route with lots of holds and eliminate the moves that favour your dominant side. hope it helps. Good luck.
OP johncoxmysteriously 20 Mar 2002
In reply to Sarah:

Same on routes. I realised a long time ago that whenever I seconded a pitch all the gear ended up on one side of my harness (can't actually remember which) because I would always set up to hang on with my stronger hand while I got it out with the other. Doesn't strike me as something one can or should do much about, but I could be wrong!
flapper 20 Mar 2002
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> (In reply to Sarah)
>
> Doesn't strike me as something one can or should do much about, but I could be wrong!

I realised a while ago that I tended to 'climb wonky' as well. I'm improving the situation by favouring the weaker side more on easier ground (e.g. while I'm still in a mental state to consider it) and at rest points, gear placements etc.

I suspect that unless one is truly ambidextrous the situation will always be prevalent.

flapper.
Stuart 20 Mar 2002
In reply to flapper:
Climbing asymmetrically is almost inevitable unless you make a conscious effort not to do moves the easiest way (for you). That said, I think Malcolm Smith has designed a range of training holds that are totally symmetrical for that completely even workout.
francoise 20 Mar 2002
In reply to Sarah:

Normal. Nobody is symetric. Your face is asymetric, your vision probably too. My left rockshoes have got holes the right ones are fine. Fixing an ice screw one handed with the right hand is already tricky, with the left hand it becomes acrobatic.

It will fix itself automatically but never totally through doing lots of routes which will inevitably call on many different muscles.
Sarah 20 Mar 2002
Yeah, I've been working on some of the one-sided flaws indoors, but in dodgy situations then the dominant side always seems to win out. Perhaps working on the strength disparity would be a start. I shall try to think of a way of increasing strength in one arm (assuming one starts off as a weakling). Carrying shopping perhaps
Placing gear with the non-dominant hand hadn't even occurred to me - I dont think I've ever tried to. Mind, I've missed vital placements out left before, so perhaps I should learn!
OP Arran 20 Mar 2002
In reply to Sarah: If you're setting boulder problems for yourself indoors it's probable that you're setting them to favour your dominant side. When I built my attic board I made it symetrical; ie: for every hold there is an identical one in the same place on the other side, and for every problem on it there is a mirror image version. This suits me as I only have to set half as many problems for a session. Also it's interesting that I try to climb the same problem differently, ie: using different footholds, depending on whether it's the left or right version.
To get back to your problem, if you don't have access to this kind of facility you could try the following:
Get a left handed friend to set problems for you.
finish every session with some offset pull ups and one arm deadhangs (use a bungee if needed).

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