UKC

Planning to climbing at baggy point later this month.

Are there currently any restrictions in place?


Also,


Please give your advice/tips for climbing at baggy point.


Thanks

In reply to Tamati: Hi Tamati, I was climbing there yesterday and Saturday. There white post marking the section which mark the are closed due to nesting birds. Rockfax says that Long Rock Slab and Slab Cove are currently closed. The Promontory is open and has some excellent low-mid grade routes with easy approach. Scrattling Zawn has one or two routes worth doing but personally, I think the Promontory has more to go at. Just keep an eye on tides as you will get wet feet(/legs/ head) at the bottom of Promontory at high tide unless you're doing the classics like Kinkyboots.

In reply to Rhys Jones: Oh and parking is at the National Trust car park in Croyde

In reply to Tamati: the regional access database is the best place for this sort of thing: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=508

(just repeats whats been said above, but good for future reference.)

Looks like there will be plenty to do for a weekend.


Thanks

The closed bits are the best ones IMO - go back in August!

I advise:
Steal a guidebook for baggy point from the local middleton mountain library.
Soloing everything
Pray its not going to rain
Curse any nesting bird like its a ring ouzel.
Make sure you bring enough beer and food for a post climb BBQ

Anyone know which decent routes around vs are accessible at high tide...other than kinky boots? Is lost horizon?

In reply to lizzie789:

On The Promontory only Midnight Cowboy via the Kinky Boots start (highly recommended). You can abseil down the slab to narrow ledges above the reach of most normal waves and then do routes like Sexilegs and Long Rock Eliminate; (yes I know that should be Promontory Eliminate now!) All the Long Rock routes are usually out of bounds until 30 June but worth checking with the BMC local rep. The ledge below LH and Urizen slants down towards the sea so routes to the left are more tide dependent.

Without doubt Baggy has some of the best VS/HVS slab climbing on the coast but to make the most of it you need to time your arrival for half tide on the ebb (in July of course!)

In reply to Tamati:

The cliff is about 60m in places. Running pitches together can mean a lack of getting to the belay stake whilst still being belayed.

The top area is loose on some areas. Lids and care will see you good.

Its a great place.