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What the line that Ben Moon uses in Hard Grit, where he's talking about finger strength?
It's something along the lines of "technique is all well and good, but in the end it all comes down to how strong you are". Does anybody have a more accurate recollection?
It's something along the lines of "technique is all well and good, but in the end it all comes down to how strong you are". Does anybody have a more accurate recollection?
In reply to Alun:
"Technique is no substitute for power" or "The only substitute for power is more power"
Or somethink like that.
"Technique is no substitute for power" or "The only substitute for power is more power"
Or somethink like that.
In reply to JessClmbr: Thought he said something like "In the end it basically comes down to how hard I can pull..sorry!"
In reply to Marc C: I believe the quote was :- " F*ck it, never going to do it!"
In reply to JessClmbr: Yeah, he says that after failing on Mushin' - but he also says something about 'for me, in the end it all comes down to how hard I can pull..sorry!"
In reply to Marc C:
THat's the one I was thinking of, thanks.
> "In the end it basically comes down to how hard I can pull..sorry
THat's the one I was thinking of, thanks.
In reply to Alun:
ha ha its so true. Point a weak punter who keeps going on about technique at a hold he cant hang and see if he keeps arguing
p
ha ha its so true. Point a weak punter who keeps going on about technique at a hold he cant hang and see if he keeps arguing
p
In reply to Hotbad Peteel: rhetorical point?
In reply to Hotbad Peteel: or about arm strength... "if you can't hang a hold you can't pull on it" ...or was that Moffatt?
In reply to Ian Hill: Didn't Moffatt famously boast - about one of his climbs - that "no one else could hang those holds" ?
In reply to Alun: Was it him that said "it's hard but it's not that hard, I could climb much harder than that"?
In reply to Marc C:
If memory serves it was "no-one but me can hang those holds" about some E6 at Tremadoc (Psyche and Burn??).
I think Pollitt repeated it not long after.
If memory serves it was "no-one but me can hang those holds" about some E6 at Tremadoc (Psyche and Burn??).
I think Pollitt repeated it not long after.
In reply to Ian Hill:
That might be even better - I want a good quote that illustrates the importance of finger strength. If it was Moffatt, where/when did he say it?
> "if you can't hang a hold you can't pull on it" ...or was that Moffatt?
That might be even better - I want a good quote that illustrates the importance of finger strength. If it was Moffatt, where/when did he say it?
In reply to Marc C:
isn't it something along the lines of "you can talk all you want about technique and the subtlties of climbing, but for me, in the end, the next hard problem comes down to how hard I can pull..sorry!"
Along the same lines I think he once said "technique is no substitute for power".
isn't it something along the lines of "you can talk all you want about technique and the subtlties of climbing, but for me, in the end, the next hard problem comes down to how hard I can pull..sorry!"
Along the same lines I think he once said "technique is no substitute for power".
In reply to Swirly:
> (In reply to Alun) Was it him that said "it's hard but it's not that hard, I could climb much harder than that"?
That was Moon, I think, after succeeding on Brad Pit on the umpteenth go
In reply to Alun:
Hola amigo.
THE quote regarding this subject is:
"The only substiture for power is..... More power!"
And it's true you can't have fun when you're weak (I should know
Hola amigo.
THE quote regarding this subject is:
"The only substiture for power is..... More power!"
And it's true you can't have fun when you're weak (I should know
In reply to Duncan Disorderly: Was it Lynn Hill who said something like 'There's no such thing as lack of reach only lack of power'?
In reply to Alun: Does anyone else think ben moon comes across as a tw*t in almost every vid he has been in?
How many people have used "I might not be able to hang on the smallest holds, but the holds I can hang on, I can hang on all day!" I know of Jim Jewell and Big Ron. Think Jim said it first. ??
In reply to Lbos: For one of Britain's best climbers, his track record of 'success' doesn't seem to be well-documented in the videos he's appeared in - e.g. injury-induced sulking in that Cresciano bouldering vid, failing in 'Stick It' on 8-ball, repeatedly trying Brad Pit in 'Hard Grit'. Maybe I'm being unfair?
In reply to Steve Parker: 'Twas Jimmy Jewell who said that. Remember it being quoted in a profile in Mountain after he soloed The Axe at Cloggy and The Cad (on-sight) at Gogarth.
In reply to Marc C: I have all on trying not to curl up in the fetal position, due to the general cringeworthiness of One Summer. The whole blindfold bit... oh and the other thing at stoney- "Lets see how I do it".
Having said that, he is very good.
Having said that, he is very good.
In reply to Marc C:
He also fails on his project in the Baltic Sea Bouldering DVD. Oh, and you get about 10 seconds of Ben and Jerry walking into Dumbarton in the pouring rain, doing nothing and then walking away again, muttering, on another video.
But then go to his website and there are clips of him succeeding on Cypher, High Fidelity and countless other hard classics. I guess it's easier to film successes when you're not working to another film maker's timescale?
> (In reply to Lbos) For one of Britain's best climbers, his track record of 'success' doesn't seem to be well-documented in the videos he's appeared in
He also fails on his project in the Baltic Sea Bouldering DVD. Oh, and you get about 10 seconds of Ben and Jerry walking into Dumbarton in the pouring rain, doing nothing and then walking away again, muttering, on another video.
But then go to his website and there are clips of him succeeding on Cypher, High Fidelity and countless other hard classics. I guess it's easier to film successes when you're not working to another film maker's timescale?
In reply to Stuart S: before you all forget, he did do Karma on vid...
and you can hardly blame them on the Dumb vid!!
Ian
and you can hardly blame them on the Dumb vid!!
Ian
In reply to Marc C: Hmmm perhaps slightly unfair after all he did do Brad Pit in the end and was using a rubbish sequence, and you can't blame him for not happening to do an 8b on the day they had the camera out.
The project he failed on in Aaland was completed by someone else and called 'Over the Moon' ha ha.
The project he failed on in Aaland was completed by someone else and called 'Over the Moon' ha ha.
In reply to Marc C:
Yea, Jerry Moffat said after doing the direct start to the Prow at Raven Tor (Revelations?...dunno)that no-one else could hang on to holds that small.
Some French guy then repeated it fairly soon afterwards I seem to remember. leMenestrel??....dunno
.....don't believe the hype!
Yea, Jerry Moffat said after doing the direct start to the Prow at Raven Tor (Revelations?...dunno)that no-one else could hang on to holds that small.
Some French guy then repeated it fairly soon afterwards I seem to remember. leMenestrel??....dunno
.....don't believe the hype!
In reply to troll:
Redpointed it then came back and soloed it as well!
> (In reply to Marc C)
>
> Yea, Jerry Moffat said after doing the direct start to the Prow at Raven Tor (Revelations?...dunno)that no-one else could hang on to holds that small.
>
> Some French guy then repeated it fairly soon afterwards I seem to remember. leMenestrel??...
>
> Yea, Jerry Moffat said after doing the direct start to the Prow at Raven Tor (Revelations?...dunno)that no-one else could hang on to holds that small.
>
> Some French guy then repeated it fairly soon afterwards I seem to remember. leMenestrel??...
Redpointed it then came back and soloed it as well!
In reply to DaveC at Work: how did he get down?
In reply to Alun:
So I've got home and got the DVD out. The correct quote is:
"For me to do the next hard problem, it really comes down to strength".
So I've got home and got the DVD out. The correct quote is:
"For me to do the next hard problem, it really comes down to strength".
In reply to Alun: that's nowhere near as good as all the made up ones...
In reply to Alun: NO! Don't believe it! Sure that in the Mushin' section he refers to 'being able to pull harder'?
In reply to Alun: Can you check the Hard Grit tape again, Alun? Unless I'm suffering from False Memory Syndrome, I'd bet my mortgage on the fact that Ben says something like "for me it comes down to how hard I can pull ...sorry".
In reply to Alun:
I personally like the old Heinz Zak quote that compares strength to power endurance that says 'If you can't pull a single hard move you have nothing to endure'
I personally like the old Heinz Zak quote that compares strength to power endurance that says 'If you can't pull a single hard move you have nothing to endure'
In reply to Marc C:
Don't worry, he does say something like that afterwards. The full quote is, "You can argue all you want about technique and friction and the sublteties of climbing on grit or sandstone or whatever; but personally, for me to the next hard problem, it really comes down to strength and, you know, how hard I can pull, I'm afraid".
Although I've left a few more "y'know"s out for clarity!
Don't worry, he does say something like that afterwards. The full quote is, "You can argue all you want about technique and friction and the sublteties of climbing on grit or sandstone or whatever; but personally, for me to the next hard problem, it really comes down to strength and, you know, how hard I can pull, I'm afraid".
Although I've left a few more "y'know"s out for clarity!
In reply to TimS:
Maybe his technique isn't quite the best and he uses power as a substitute?
> (In reply to Marc C) Hmmm perhaps slightly unfair after all he did do Brad Pit in the end and was using a rubbish sequence,
Maybe his technique isn't quite the best and he uses power as a substitute?
In reply to Alun:
*sigh* I can't type, doh! Quote is actually
"....for me to do the next hard problem..."
*sigh* I can't type, doh! Quote is actually
"....for me to do the next hard problem..."
In reply to Alun: For god's sake, man, can we have the true and full version!
In reply to Marc C:
Okay. In all it's glory, minus a couple of "y'know"s which clutter things, but with correct spelling and with no missing verbs:
"You can argue all you want about technique and friction and the subtleties of climbing on grit or sandstone or whatever; but personally, for me to do the next hard problem, it really comes down to strength and, you know, how hard I can pull, I'm afraid."
That's it!
Okay. In all it's glory, minus a couple of "y'know"s which clutter things, but with correct spelling and with no missing verbs:
"You can argue all you want about technique and friction and the subtleties of climbing on grit or sandstone or whatever; but personally, for me to do the next hard problem, it really comes down to strength and, you know, how hard I can pull, I'm afraid."
That's it!
In reply to Alun: Bravo!
Please don't bother transcribing Richie Paterson's speeches on Stone Love...too many expletives!
Please don't bother transcribing Richie Paterson's speeches on Stone Love...too many expletives!
In reply to Marc C:
did you forget that the injury-induced sulking includes an 8a tick?
and real thing contains the infamous 1-5-9?
> (In reply to Lbos) For one of Britain's best climbers, his track record of 'success' doesn't seem to be well-documented in the videos he's appeared in - e.g. injury-induced sulking in that Cresciano bouldering vid, failing in 'Stick It' on 8-ball, repeatedly trying Brad Pit in 'Hard Grit'. Maybe I'm being unfair?
did you forget that the injury-induced sulking includes an 8a tick?
and real thing contains the infamous 1-5-9?
In reply to DaveC at Work: It was said actually about Verball Abuse E7 6c at Raven Tor in 1983.
Surprisingly this still doesn't get many repeats, probably even less than Revelations.
Surprisingly this still doesn't get many repeats, probably even less than Revelations.
In reply to Ian Dunn: That's the trad-ish line next to Obscene Gesture isn't it? If so, I'm not surprised it doesn't get much attention nowadays. My then climbing partner had a look back in 91 after doing O.G. and didn't fancy it at all (he was leading E7/F8a at the time.)
In reply to DaveC at Work: Yep that's the one.
The crux has really small crimps and you take a big fall too.
The crux has really small crimps and you take a big fall too.
In reply to Ian Dunn: That sounds about right. He tried the moves on a TR resulting in a lot of loud Yank cursing, a tweaked finger tendon and an enforced two week break (so I had a belay slave for a while - result!)
Jerry Moffat: There is only three persons who can pull on these holds; Me, Myself and I
In reply to tommytwotonenotloggedin:
Wasn't 'having a go' at a brilliant climber! Just expressing my perception that his brilliance hasn't been THAT well-documented in videos. Same could be said for Johnny Dawes - toproping grit routes in Stone Monkey, failing on Ray's Roof in Best Forgotten Art, doodling around on Wizard Ridge in Hard Grit (of course, people will chime in with 'What about The Quarryman!" etc etc).
Wasn't 'having a go' at a brilliant climber! Just expressing my perception that his brilliance hasn't been THAT well-documented in videos. Same could be said for Johnny Dawes - toproping grit routes in Stone Monkey, failing on Ray's Roof in Best Forgotten Art, doodling around on Wizard Ridge in Hard Grit (of course, people will chime in with 'What about The Quarryman!" etc etc).
In reply to Removed Userboulder: Wasn't that "there are 3 people who could do that move: me, myself and I"?
In reply to Marc C:
fair play, just wish I could crank out 8a with a knackered shoulder - I'm nowhere near and my limbs/joints are all working properly!
on the JD thing there's a brief clip on Hard Grit of him doing the no handed ramp up the pebble isn't there?
and technical master in a pair of old skool 80s trainers?
> (In reply to tommytwotonenotloggedin)
> Wasn't 'having a go' at a brilliant climber! Just expressing my perception that his brilliance hasn't been THAT well-documented in videos. Same could be said for Johnny Dawes - toproping grit routes in Stone Monkey, failing on Ray's Roof in Best Forgotten Art, doodling around on Wizard Ridge in Hard Grit (of course, people will chime in with 'What about The Quarryman!" etc etc).
> Wasn't 'having a go' at a brilliant climber! Just expressing my perception that his brilliance hasn't been THAT well-documented in videos. Same could be said for Johnny Dawes - toproping grit routes in Stone Monkey, failing on Ray's Roof in Best Forgotten Art, doodling around on Wizard Ridge in Hard Grit (of course, people will chime in with 'What about The Quarryman!" etc etc).
fair play, just wish I could crank out 8a with a knackered shoulder - I'm nowhere near and my limbs/joints are all working properly!
on the JD thing there's a brief clip on Hard Grit of him doing the no handed ramp up the pebble isn't there?
and technical master in a pair of old skool 80s trainers?
I seem to remember that Malcolm Smith got a T-shirt with 'I boulder for fun on it' and he apparently said 'I don't boulder for fun. I boulder for power'
Did he really say that? Great quote if he did.
Did he really say that? Great quote if he did.
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