/ Best crags Clywd Limestone?

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Paul Sagar 11 Jun 2019

Thinking of breaking up the long drive to and from London by exploring the Clwyd limestone. Heard some mixed things (e.g. that the routes are often same-same and low-quality at some crags) so wondering what people rate the best crags as? Sport and trad equally welcome.

Llanymynech Quarry - looks really good, although the best sport climbing appears to be bird banned until next month, and the lower grade trad (i.e. not the awesome looking stuff on Black Wall) appears to now be banned.

Pandy Outcrop - looks like a cute little venue to spend an afternoon at?

Carreg y Byg - might be OK for a one-off hit?

Anything I'm missing? The closer to the A5 with a short walk in, the better

Ian Patterson 11 Jun 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

> Llanymynech Quarry - looks really good, although the best sport climbing appears to be bird banned until next month, and the lower grade trad (i.e. not the awesome looking stuff on Black Wall) appears to now be banned.

Grid Iron wall has big wall climbing routes (35m) with good atmosphere, though bit of poorer rock in the first 10/15m.  Some people don't like the climbing between breaks style but I rate routes overlal and the best are really pretty good (Grid Iron, Curfew, Humpty Dumpty).  Nomad is wall is even better, 30m routes of real quality, the 2 7a's and 7a+ are really worth their 3*s in my opinion. 

> Anything I'm missing? The closer to the A5 with a short walk in, the better

Dinbren if you want short and sharp sport routes (up to about 15m) in the 6c+ - 8a range.   Lots of good routes in a great location, quite hard for onsighting but well worthwhile for getting some quick redpoints in.  Plenty of people travel from Liverpool / Manchester for a change to obvious Peak/Yorkshire sport crags so must have something going for it.  

Paul Sagar 11 Jun 2019
In reply to Ian Patterson:

Thanks!

I had my eye on the 7a and 7a+ routes on Nomad Wall, yes. 

Thanks for the shout re Dinbren - though need to make sure there is stuff in the 5a-6a range nearby as my girlfriend has only recently started leading and that's her sort of level (although she is amenable to being dragged up E1-2 routes on second, I've found).

Ian Patterson 11 Jun 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

> Thanks!

> I had my eye on the 7a and 7a+ routes on Nomad Wall, yes. 

> Thanks for the shout re Dinbren - though need to make sure there is stuff in the 5a-6a range nearby as my girlfriend has only recently started leading and that's her sort of level (although she is amenable to being dragged up E1-2 routes on second, I've found).

Dinbren is not great in the lower grades other than a few worthwile trad routes.  Llanymynech is relatively good if your gf is happy to second at a slightly higher grade but bolting is sometimes a bit sporting for an newish leader - my daughter seconded Curfew (6b+) onsight but we jointly decided that the bolts were a bit spaced for a rp given her fairly limited leading experience.  Didn't stop her having a good day, even on a TR the routes felt like a pretty big outing.

For mix of grades in a nice setting you could consider Trevor, not the same quality but a pleasant spot to spend a few hours.

Paul Sagar 11 Jun 2019
In reply to Ian Patterson:

Great, thanks.

Think it will all largely depend on whether we have a trad or a sport day in the end!

Bulls Crack 11 Jun 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Black Wall looked  awesome but was  surprisingly not imo. NB I'm not a fan of the in between shaley/muddy breaks climbing! 

Another shout for Dinbren but Craig Arthur can be very good - a few classic trad and sport pitches amongst the less good stuff. 

TobyA 11 Jun 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Llanymynech is as much in Shropshire as it is in Clywyd and I don't think Pandy is limestone. But otherwise, as you were. 😉

I've done some trad in that little pit quarry at Llanymynech but the sport seems more worthwhile. Pandy was nice, but I've never felt a wild urge to go back.

For trad Nesscliffe is the place to go in that area, although sandstone. I've done some trad on the limestone above Llangollen, nice but again a bit inland-British-limestone with all that entails. If you like Stoney Middleton I'm sure you'd dig Dinbren and World's End and so on.

Stig 11 Jun 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

If I could go to one crag in Clwyd it would be Dinbren. I absolutely love it: great routes (do Technicolour Yawn, then Fire, and Ice if you have time). There are a few 6as etc, which are fine. However, the E1s often feel like sport routes (short, with pegs and tat) and most have bolted lower offs so your GF could either do them as a fun clip up or TR it.

i guess CA is good but not as convenient to access and the routes aren’t as concentrated.

Llany is ok, the routes are fine but a bit forgettable and meh, it’s a quarry. Dinbren is lovely. Plus it’s in a rain shadow. 

Tom Green 11 Jun 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

World's End

Really nice setting. Clean and mostly very solid for limestone. Short walk in but quiet and with good views. Dries quickly. Sheltered parts but one end catches the breeze to keep the midges away. 

Really nice trad lines from V Diff to E3. 

A proper local gem!

Tyler 11 Jun 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Dinbren is the best crag really and a pretty idyllic spot especially in the evening with the sun setting, however, if low grade trad routes are what you're after Pot Hole quarry is great and, again, pretty idyllic. 

ripper 11 Jun 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

> Although she is amenable to being dragged up E1-2 routes on second, I've found).

You should have a look at this then

Digitron (E2 5c)

Paul Sagar 12 Jun 2019

Thanks all, very helpful indeed!

GrahamD 12 Jun 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Worlds End is lovely but notorious for car break ins, at least it was a few years back.

Ramon Marin 12 Jun 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Devil's Gorge is fantastic if you looking for harder grades.


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