UKC

Best stuff the BMC has done

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 gingerkate 20 Oct 2003
I need information please, on the good useful things the BMC has done. Like I know Stanage would likely get closed each spring/summer if it wasn't for the superb work of the Peak Area access officer.

More things like that. I don't need lots and lots of examples, I want to know the very best stuff.

Tell them to me, please.

Thanks,
Kate
littleduck 20 Oct 2003
In reply to gingerkate: re gained accesss to witches quarry, have enjoyed v happy evenings there and it's v. child friendly for our 2 climbing up the wizards hat (apart from the nettles)and nice for picnics, and easy kids routes and fun mum and dads routes, sorry i digress, but yes, maintaining access rights, they seem to be keeping craig y longridge open too despite building controversy...
davee 20 Oct 2003
In reply to gingerkate: the latest Lancashire guide book
 sutty 21 Oct 2003
In reply to gingerkate:

Lots of access work over the years. Helped negotiate the sale of Windgather, you would not know the farmer tried to stop climbing there till it was compulsory purchased.
Bought Aldery Cliff and part of Tremadoc. Run exhibitions and lectures at various times, some like this weekend when you can see Andy Kirkpatricks film on the Dru in winter.

North Lees campsite? organised partly by the BMC.

Conville training courses in the alps, youth meets in different areas, all subsidised, organised and famous climbers press ganged to speak by, the BMC.

Just some that I can remember from past years, some in the mists of time for most people. I remember the day Dennis Gray got the job of secretary of the BMC and the salary, he was organising a lecture at the Holdsworth hall in Manchester and we went for a drink after to celebrate the formalisng of the BMC, It has grown a lot since then, pity it lost direction at times. Next year it WILL be back on track, the AGM will see to that.
 alex 21 Oct 2003
OK, snapshot of current and recent work;

Access
Maintained access to the crags and mountains through a team of area access reps, staff and advisors. Secured much improved access to Range West, fought for access to Stanage during the bird breeding season against strong opposition from conservationists. Represented climbers rights under the CRoW act. Encouraging research into bird disturbance by climbers and hill walkers. Researching into the contribution of climbers and hill walkers into rural economies and have started projects to maximise the value of climbers and hill walkers to rural areas.

Training
Organise the Student Safety and Good Practice Seminar for University Clubs, an essential way of helping these clubs to run safely and fight excessive restrictions from Student Unions. This years event hosted 100 delegates from 58 different colleges and universities.

Administer the Jonathon Conville Memorial Trust courses, providing subsidised training for young people. In 2003 190 young people undertook training courses in Scotland, the Lake District, and the Alps.

Run the annual Alpine and Winter Skills lecture Series. This years winter series hosted by IFMGA Guide Andy Perkins and Mountain Instructor Helen Teasdale starts on 4 November and has lectures in London, Cardiff, Birmingham, Leeds, Newcastle and Manchester. Tickets still available. The Alpine series to run in March will be hosted by two of the top names in British Alpinism, Rich Cross and Al Powell.

Run a series of High Performance and coaching seminars.

Ran the equity exchange visits for youths, advised clubs on Child Protection Issues and ran National Workshops on Disability Awareness.

Technical
Organise the Technical Conference on equipment standards and failures. This years event takes place at Plas y Brenin on Sunday 9 November and includes sessions on crack detection in winter climbing equipment, recent developments in helmet design, and stress corrosion cracking in bolts and much more. Places still available.

Undertake investigations and research into climbing equipment failures and EU standards. Work closely with manufacturers, and have been instrumental in several major recalls in recent years. Organise testing of equipment as and when required, for example the extensive Helmet testing reported in Summit a year ago. Maintain a library of technical reports into equipment failures and incidents for future research

Publications
Produce a range of publications, all discounted or free to members; A brief history of mountaineering, The Mountain Travellers Handbook, plus skills and training booklets and videos such as; New Climbers Booklet, New Hill walkers booklet, and the technical series; knots, ropes, care and maintenance of equipment etc. Also now a member’s handbook with information and further contacts for every aspect of BMC work and the benefits of membership. Arranged a package of membership benefits including discounts at retailers and travel service providers.

Produced the new Stanage guide, reprinted On Peak Rock, work continues on a strong guidebook range.

Expeditions
Allocate over £40K of expedition grants thanks to UK sport, supporting British ascents worldwide. Maintain a library of expedition reports for researching destinations for future expeditions. Organised and ran the International Meets at North Wales, and Scotland, and involved in exchanges with South Africa, China, Czech Republic, and Slovenia.

Competitions
Run the British Indoor Climbing Competitions (BICC), the British Bouldering Series (BBC), the British Regional Youth Climbing Series (BRYCS). Ran the popular Climb 97 / 99 / 01, now run in conjunction with the Outdoor Show. Manage the British Climbing teams, sending and supporting junior and senior competitors to international events.

Advice
Participate in legal research into risk and liability

Advised walls on HSE issues, design and management, and conducting research into accidents and insurance premiums. Produced the Climbing Wall Manual, the definitive guide to building, running, and managing a climbing wall.

Represent the interest of the sport and those involved in Instruction to lobby against the EU Working at Heights Directive which the HSE has proposals to implement. If this goes ahead it will have massive implications for all those who work in the outdoors.

Huts
Run the Huts Seminar.
Own, and look after the Whillans Hut at the Roaches.

General
Answer daily general enquiries from members of the public on matters ranging from access, conservation, training, equipment advice, foreign travel and expeditions, high altitude and medical issues, climbing wall design and use, insurance, legal issues. Produce Summit magazine.





 Michael Ryan 21 Oct 2003
In reply to alex:
> OK, snapshot of current and recent work;
>
>
> Run the annual Alpine and Winter Skills lecture Series. This years winter series hosted by IFMGA Guide Andy Perkins

Does Andy still wear funky trousers and fall off mountains a lot Alex?

Mick
francoise 21 Oct 2003
In reply to alex:

You did not mention the international climbing meet. Any more coming? I promise I won't fall again...

Where will the Alpine series of lecture be held?
 alex 21 Oct 2003
In reply to francoise:

Oops. Yep, forgot that. There are some plans...tbc.

Alpine series will be held around the country in the usual places, similar to the winter ones;

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/event_det.asp?event_id=858
 alex 21 Oct 2003
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

funky..... interesting choice of word!
 Michael Ryan 21 Oct 2003
In reply to alex:
> (In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA)
>
> funky..... interesting choice of word!

It is? How so....have I been on holiday too long?

M

Andyyy 21 Oct 2003
In reply to davee: I will second that!! Good climbing guide to a wealth of quality routes on my door step.
OP gingerkate 21 Oct 2003
In reply to alex:
Thankyou Alex. Could anyone furnish me with a list of crags teh BMC has purchased to ensure access?
Or just the main ones?
 alex 21 Oct 2003
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

don't worry, you haven't. Reckon Andy P's trousers are not so funky as, more, er, distinctive? lurid? clashing?
 alex 21 Oct 2003
In reply to gingerkate:

Harrison's Rocks (owned by Sport England due to the constitution of the BMC not allowing ownership of property at the time)
Stone Farm
Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
Alderey Quarry/ Earl Sterndale

More details - clare@thebmc.co.uk
OP gingerkate 21 Oct 2003
In reply to alex:
Thankyou muchly. How is Bwlch y Moch pronounced?
 Simon Caldwell 21 Oct 2003
In reply to gingerkate:
"Tree-mad-ock"
Graham ATB 21 Oct 2003
In reply to gingerkate:
(Approx): Boolk ee mok where the k sounds are soft as in scottish 'loch'.

Graham Lynch
BMC A & C

(Sits back and waits for corrections from native welsh speakers)
Graham ATB 21 Oct 2003
In reply to gingerkate:
The BMC also provides welsh pronunciation lessons
graeme alderson 21 Oct 2003
In reply to Graham ATB: One of the things that got wiped off when the RT server crashed was something about the BMC enabling climbing walls to get grants. One of the first to get such a grant was the Foundry (which opened in Dec 1991), the original dedicated centre. This grant was made available by the Sports Council following lobbying from the BMC to create a development wall that would allow the cloning of Simon Nadin (Simon had just won the first ever World Cup Series in late 1989).

The Foundry would have opened anyway but the grant was a big help to them.

Various other walls have benefited from UKSport or Sport England grants (SportScotland also give grants eg to Ratho & Inverness but thats nowt to do with BMC), and generally not for the elite training walls eg Rockface got a ringfenced grant for their beginner area, Westway goy a grant towards their overall project.
 Carolyn 21 Oct 2003
In reply to gingerkate:

Alex's extensive list didn't really do justice to their efforts at sorting out insurance. Not just travel insurance for climbing, but linking to life insurance, etc, which has some sensible understanding of the risks in climbing and the difference between top-roping V Diff and winter alpine routes. I'm sure loads of effort must have gone into it, and it's certainly useful.

The crag access database in foot and mouth was mighty useful, too (and Clare was very patient with my endless emails correcting pedantic details!!).
 sutty 22 Oct 2003
In reply to Carolyn:

Yes FMD must have taken up a lot of time while it was rife. Thanks to Clare for all the phone calls she must have made.

 Michael Ryan 22 Oct 2003
In reply to sutty:
> (In reply to Carolyn)
>
> Yes FMD must have taken up a lot of time while it was rife. Thanks to Clare for all the phone calls she must have made.

I think we should all say THANK YOU a lot more often to those who work (paid or unpaid) for the BMC. Despite some cock-ups...usually not the fault of Clare et al.....they do absolutely sterling work.

and cheers Sutty....

Mick


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