UKC

Tomorrow I'm starting my 4th week after I strained my calf (medial gastrocnemius strain) doing a dyno off an outside edge on a small foothold. I've been doing RICE and progressively weighting the leg, and also some gentle stretching, but still need crutches/stick to go any distance. Are there any more specific exercises anyone would recommend at this stage?

Thanks

In reply to bpmclimb:

Wrong rehab is at best ineffective and worst counterproductive. What's right for you is dependent on your specific conditions, Googling and forum advice etc isn't as reliable as getting advice from a physio. Get it checked out. Get well soon!

In reply to CantClimbTom:

Thanks. I've already had advice from a physio - but I'm also interested in opinions from climbers who've had the same injury.

In reply to bpmclimb:

AHH.. ok..

Unless physio says otherwise.. try to avoid too much NSAID (ibuprofen, voltorol etc) once past the initial stage as they can impede healing processes. The strengthening exercises should have variety, but choices be heavily biased towards slow "negatives" (ones where the muscle is slowly lengthening under load, not contracting). It's going to be uncomfortable sorry.

In reply to bpmclimb:

I did the same injury and followed the rehab programme to the letter and it worked a treat.  After the rest phase, there was some gentle calf stretching to get ROM, both with leg straight and knee a little bent. Then a period of doing heel raises (repeatedly going up on your toes), then small hops, then eventually  full on hopping on one foot going round in a square (forwards side, back, side) X 5 reps, 3 sets.  The physio did soft tissue massage to get the knots out and promote good healing. 

Some where along the line i was advised to start doing 10 minute jogs too. 

I was told 4-6 weeks, this was bang on. 

In reply to bpmclimb:

As above, I'd say follow your physio's advice + go back for a follow up in a few months if still not right (talking from experience/ wish this is what I'd done instead of soldiering on).

In reply to bpmclimb:I would seek advice from a podiatrist who would generally know more about the specific bio mechanical  rehab about the lower limb and that was my job: heel raise (no more than 4mm as this reduces pronation, depending on which head of gastrocnemius   stretch and light compression, ice and slowly reduce the size of tge heel post but only build up strengthening until symptoms start to reduce: you can always email for further advice and heel post information?

In reply to bpmclimb:

I was told to avoid stretching at all costs. You are aiming to strengthen it via progressive loading (mainlt calf raises, building up to single leg). Stretching had the potential to undo all that good work by pulling weak fibres apart.