UKC

Carvers Rocks revisited

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 johnty 22 Apr 2013
I live in the localy to Carvers Rocks South Derbyshire and decided to have a look at them for old times sake. So me and the dog decided to check them out and after our visit I checked out some old U K C posts.
I first climbed there around 1960 and we used to visit in the evenings after work, where we managed to do most of the routes + a couple of new ones,{named incorrectly in the Leics guide}. Most were done virtualy solo in bendy boots, the rope a just a token.{pre harness boldering mats and gear}.
Most of the criticisms in these posts I totaly agree with. It is Damp! it is Sandy! It is friable! Personally I wouldnt travel more than the three miles that I used to live from them to climb there.
Thing is though if you live close they do have a few things going for them and on a summer evening its a very pleasant place to climb. Set in semi natural woodland, its a D,N,T nature reserve, Woodpeckers, Willow Warblers etc, mid week no other climbers and a real ale pub the Admiral Rodney only a mile away. Also the recent addition of bolts, in my oppinion a bonus. Burbage it is not! Lawrencfield it Is not! It is, a grotty damp esoteric little crag that deserves its few bolts; the chap who complained about them and climbed there forty years ago as I did fifty years ago can still have a go at them, sans bolts.
If we have a summer this year and you live close give Carvers a go. {That is after at least a month of dry sunny weather}. Bring your boldering mat and have a laugh with your mates as we did in our youth, then go for a pint all sweaty sandy and green in the Rodney afterwards.
If you go this summer and you bump into an old fart who can hardly get off the ground you'l know who it is. Old Jonty.

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