UKC

Not seen this news on UKC yet.

She has onsighted Le roi du pétrole 8c, Smails paradis 8b+ and two 8b's in Pic Saint Loup.

link (in French)
http://www.chadurif.fr/

Isn't 8c a first for a female onsight? This should be big news.

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

I wonder when the cynical 'must be overgraded' comments will start...?

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

Surely it must be overgraded.

In reply to john arran:

Actually for me this is a monumentally impressive achievement. It brings us to the point where I feel I no longer even relate to the level of ability needed, let alone ever hope to reach it. Amazing effort.

In reply to john arran:

Thing is, John, that's how it's always been for most of us!

In reply to plexiglass_nick: Effort! Not to put a dampner, but has josemine B...(spanish female)... can't remember her name, onsite a 8c 3 years or so ago???? Could be talking mince....

In reply to plexiglass_nick: I was in Rodellar last year and there was a slovenian? girl their who supposedly onsighted an 8b. Given that fact, I would say its not beyond the realms of possibility that a female could onsight 8c....

*pulls up chair for ensuing misogynistic argument*

In reply to andyinglis:

Josune Bereziartu? Has onsighted 8b+ (Hidrophobia in 2007) but not 8c as far as I can tell via google...

In reply to john arran:
Check out her website/blog.Gives photos and account of the big link ups at the Ultime Demence crag in the verdon redpointing 4 pitches(mostly 8s) in 1 pitch with a long rope,not many Q/Ds and a heck of alot of self belief(not to mention stamina).

In reply to witnessthis:

Yes I've seen this, but I still think onsighting 8c is more impressive again - I suppose because after enough beers I could almost convince myself that the Verdon linkups could one day be possible by mortals (i.e. people like me). Wishful thinking of the highest order, I'm sure!

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

Amazing! Despite her being a world-renowned climber and so on, I seem to see her name bandied around rather less than one might expect. It's all terribly abstract to me, but when I heard about her massive link-ups a year or two back, I was really impressed just thinking of the stamina! I start to notice the weight of a rope after about 25m. On 6a routes :-<

I don't know about first female onsights at 8c - she seems not to be making a song and dance about on her site. Classy.

In reply to plexiglass_nick: Highlighted this story a few days ago, the story seems to have gone cold on other climbing websites as well, with a few rumours banding around.

Guess the newswriter is looking for a bit more info before writing it up as would be major headline if she had.

In reply to mani555: Can you give me a link to more details?

In reply to Jon Redshaw:

Jon - what details do you want? You seem to be implying that there is some doubt about this ascent - it looks as if you don't trust Charlotte's report on her own website. Sorry if I've misinterpreted. But whose reportage will you choose to believe? Cheers.

In reply to Blue Straggler: I'm just asking why this isn't bigger news? The reports came out over a week ago of the ascent I would have expected at least Bjorn to report on it. Why hasn't it been reported??

When Patxi or Ondra onsight 8c its reported pretty quickly.

In reply to Jon Redshaw:

Ah, I see. Sorry! Good point. Maybe Charlotte wants to write it up it in a bit more detail before allowing wider media to report it officially?

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

since my french is rubbish, i can't work out if this:

"Malgré un premier essai malheureux sous p17, je ne suis pas mécontente de la conclure au deuxième essai"

means she got it second shot....impressive in that case, major news if actually onsight. in this case her best redpoint is only one grade harder....on this route:

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/CharlotteDurif-pullover.jpg

In reply to jon:

What has she ever done on .... (4 letter word , rhymes with sh*t)

In reply to andyinglis:
Effort! Not to put a dampner, but has josemine B...(spanish female)... can't remember her name, onsite a 8c 3 years or so ago????

Onsite? FAIL.

In reply to Morgan Woods: That rt(pullover?) has had attempts by some very strong french dudes from the briancon area i believe.....

In reply to Bulls Crack: yeah, i'd like to see Charlotte on the 'hard' limestone routes at Malham
why doesn't someone invite her over? (i'd put her up-seems like a nice lass)

In reply to Morgan Woods:

Do you realise that the comment about the second attempt is for a different route (Un jour peut-être 8c)? For that route she comments that she hoped that it would suit her strengths "after working it", and comments that "it would be hard to onsight, particularly because of the first half" [although she seems to have made it through to the 17th and final bolt before failing?]. The onsight was for "Le roi du pétrole" a few days afterwards.

In reply to Morgan Woods:

awesome!

In reply to jonny taylor:

cheers for clarifying.