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Cheating on Everest

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 full stottie 28 May 2014
Is an achievement what your ethics say it is? This person thinks so.

http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/outdoors-news/first-everest-climber-of-2014-ac...

Using a helicopter to bypass the Khumbu Icefall! How public. Hope no-one ever finds out that I once placed a boulder under the start of Tacitation at Kyloe Out to get off the ground.
In reply to full stottie:

Does this mean using the train on Snowdon is now fair game?
abseil 28 May 2014
In reply to full stottie:

> Using a helicopter to bypass the Khumbu Icefall...

Good idea... now can I get a helicopter to lower me into the cave stance on Vector...
 GrahamD 28 May 2014
In reply to full stottie:

But then who ever climbs Mt Blanc from Chamonix ?
 TobyA 28 May 2014
In reply to full stottie:

One of my climbing mates climbed it on Monday I think - so this thing that the strike 'has closed mountain' is a bit silly. They are still climbing from the North. Presumably that route will become much busier in the future.
 climbwhenready 28 May 2014
In reply to full stottie:

But they also use fixed ropes.....

As long as you're clear about what you've done, it's fine.
 victorclimber 28 May 2014
In reply to full stottie:

If you can live with yourself for doing it like that its fine,I often see pics of Climbers with about 5 or 6 Pads under routes ,same thing ,dosnt make it right though..
Removed User 28 May 2014
In reply to full stottie:

Wonder why she didn't do it from the Chineses side or is that harder?
 Mr Lopez 28 May 2014
In reply to full stottie:

Hold your horses!!!

The Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation is collecting details of her summit after Wang, 41, claimed in writing that she never used a helicopter to reach Camp 2, contradicting the claims of her guide and chopper pilot who accompanied her from the Base Camp

Hahaha! But isn't Everest climbing the epitome of the gallant mountaineers... Now where is my pipe?
 JDal 28 May 2014
In reply to full stottie:
> ... Hope no-one ever finds out that I once placed a boulder under the start of Tacitation at Kyloe Out to get off the ground.
You never found the bumbly steps I left there then. Did Australia Crack with them.

Anyhow, according to the ever-reliable Supertopo it was an American climber, Cleo Weidlich, who used the little assist. And to be fair the bumbly ladders on the icefall have been removed. The Chinese climber is using Sherpas, a tactic I employed at Raven Crag last weekend and is NOT cheating.
Post edited at 16:56
 Offwidth 28 May 2014
In reply to full stottie:

Given all the real cheating by being almost dragged up the mountain, cutting out the icefall and its terrible risks is bad in what way?
 thommi 28 May 2014
In reply to victorclimber:

yeah, same thing... of course.
Lusk 28 May 2014
In reply to GrahamD:

> But then who ever climbs Mt Blanc from Chamonix ?

I have!
 GrahamD 28 May 2014
In reply to Lusk:

Smart arse !
 Trangia 28 May 2014
In reply to Pepper:

> Does this mean using the train on Snowdon is now fair game?

Only if you climb from the train to the top of the cairn. Otherwise it obviously won't count.
 MikeTS 28 May 2014
In reply to full stottie:
There has only been one true ascent of Everest. It was Tim Macartney-Snape, an Australian adventurer, who walked from the Indian Ocean to Everest and soloed it without O2.
Post edited at 18:33
In reply to MikeTS:

Göran Kropp's ordeal must count as a true ascent of Everest too. In short, he biked from Sweden to Nepal, soloed Everest without flasked oxygen and biked home again.
 Rob Parsons 28 May 2014
In reply to MikeTS:

> There has only been one true ascent of Everest. It was Tim Macartney-Snape, an Australian adventurer, who walked from the Indian Ocean to Everest and soloed it without O2.

On that basis, there will have been very few 'true ascents' of anything - including Right Unconquerable, for instance ...

Seriously though, you don't think Messner's solo was a 'pretty good' effort?
 MikeTS 02 Jun 2014
In reply to Sir Stefan:

I
> Göran Kropp's ordeal must count as a true ascent of Everest too. In short, he biked from Sweden to Nepal, soloed Everest without flasked oxygen and biked home again.

I agree. I forgot about him. Wasn't he the one that refused to even use other peoples' footprints?
 MikeTS 02 Jun 2014
In reply to Rob Parsons:

> On that basis, there will have been very few 'true ascents' of anything - including Right Unconquerable, for instance ...

> Seriously though, you don't think Messner's solo was a 'pretty good' effort?

Outstanding. A new route solo wasn't it, and the second ascent without O2, after his first time with Hassler?
 chris fox 02 Jun 2014
In reply to MikeTS:

I've got Macartney-Snapes book on that ascent and its a good read
 Rob Parsons 02 Jun 2014
In reply to MikeTS:
> A new route solo wasn't it, and the second ascent without O2, after his first time with Hassler?

You mean Peter Habeler.

As to whether or not it was the second ascent without oxygen, I don't know: Unsworth's book says that 'Sherpa Mingma' took part in the second oxygenless ascent a few months after the climb of Messner and Habeler.
Post edited at 23:45
 Jonny2vests 03 Jun 2014
In reply to victorclimber:
> If you can live with yourself for doing it like that its fine,I often see pics of Climbers with about 5 or 6 Pads under routes ,same thing ,dosnt make it right though..

Sounds good. I'll spot you on your padless ascent of Careless Torque, then you'll really be able to preach and actually be worth listening to.

Or you can pick a route and you can wobble up it with your gear, rope, no pads and somehow claim to be on a higher moral plain. (Careless Torque has no gear I'm afraid).
Post edited at 00:17
 Jonny2vests 03 Jun 2014
In reply to MikeTS:
> There has only been one true ascent of Everest. It was Tim Macartney-Snape, an Australian adventurer, who walked from the Indian Ocean to Everest and soloed it without O2.

So he didn't start at the centre of the Earth? Whimp.

Why should sea level be the start point? It's pretty arbitrary. There are plenty of height systems that don't use sea level as a datum.
Post edited at 00:57
In reply to full stottie: Pretty much every ascent of Everest is "cheating"...being dragged up the mountain by guides and Sherpas seems commonplace. In any case, Everest is a walk, not a climb.

abseil 03 Jun 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

> Why should sea level be the start point? It's pretty arbitrary...

Good point. Katmandu or Lukla seem fair enough.

ANYWAY I'm going to attempt Right Unconquerable, starting from the bottom of the Marianas Trench. Anyone like to sponsor me??!
 tony 03 Jun 2014
In reply to Frank the Husky:

> In any case, Everest is a walk, not a climb.

I'm sure that was going through Edmund Hillary's mind in 1953. That Hillary Step looks like a real stroll in the park.
In reply to abseil:
> (In reply to Jonny2vests)
>
> [...]
>
> Good point. Katmandu or Lukla seem fair enough.
>
> ANYWAY I'm going to attempt Right Unconquerable, starting from the bottom of the Marianas Trench. Anyone like to sponsor me??!

I favour starting at the 'exactly opposite' side of the earth myself!
In reply to Frank the Husky:
> (In reply to full stottie) Pretty much every ascent of Everest is "cheating"...being dragged up the mountain by guides and Sherpas seems commonplace. In any case, Everest is a walk, not a climb.

Depends how you get up there surely.
abseil 03 Jun 2014
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:

> ANYWAY I'm going to attempt Right Unconquerable, starting from the bottom of the Marianas Trench. Anyone like to sponsor me??!


> I favour starting at the 'exactly opposite' side of the earth myself!

Sigh. OK, I'll start in a boat off New Zealand. But THEN will you sponsor me?? (20 quid will be very welcome). THEN can I claim the true first ascent of Right Unconquerable?
In reply to abseil:

I'm considering it
 Tom Valentine 03 Jun 2014
In reply to full stottie:

It may be cheating but it's not risk free, in medical terms, is it?
In reply to MikeTS:

> There has only been one true ascent of Everest. It was Tim Macartney-Snape, an Australian adventurer, who walked from the Indian Ocean to Everest and soloed it without O2.

Was it a sit start though?
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

My only true visit to the beach was when I downclimbed from the summit of Everest to Clacton on Sea, although I did use a donkey from the parade to the waters edge so style was compromised
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