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NEWS: Duncan Drake R.I.P.

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Dolomight 13 Sep 2007
On or around Sunday 9th September 2007 Duncan Drake (49) took his own life.

Duncan had climbed at the highest standards since 1980 when he and Pete Gomersall put up one of Britain’s first E5s. He climbed grade VI on ice, A4/5 aid routes and recently F8a sports routes. He also caved at a high standard, was noticed by the British ski jumping team when one of his first jumps came close to the British record and had a natural ability at any sport that was risky enough to interest him.

Four years ago he suffered a mental breakdown and overnight he changed from being one of the fixtures at Leeds climbing wall to giving up climbing altogether. He has been struggling with mental illness ever since. That struggle has now ended.

Because Duncan had climbed for so long many of his earlier climbing partners have moved on and are difficult to contact so could anybody who knew him please pass on the sad news to those who might want to know.

A date for the funeral has not been set yet but is likely to be around 19th-21st September. It will be posted here when it is known.
Removed User 13 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight: Grim news.I suppose it puts some of the problems on these postings into perspective
 Enty 13 Sep 2007
In reply to Removed User:

What a shame. He was quite a character.

The Ent ™
twinkletits 13 Sep 2007
Duncan was always encouraging when I was climbing. He'd stand at the bottom shouting where to put my feet, and when I did a good move, he'd shout Wha Hey! I can still picture him climbing up the overhanging wall at Leeds Wall using only his arms and no footholds. I can't believe that I won't ever see him again - I can still hear him cracking his silly jokes which always made me laugh.
 Enty 13 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight:

One of Duncans best tricks was on The Butcher.

He'd wait for it to get busy on the crag and the cliff top then solo up the route. When he got to the big jug he'd pretend ot slip and cut loose screaming.

The Ent ™
 Andy Kassyk 13 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight:

really sorry to hear it.
 Oliver Wright 13 Sep 2007
I worked with Duncan at DR walls and new him from the Yorkshire climbing scene for years. Top guy, not sure what else to say..... Will miss his p*** taking. Phoned a few mutual friends....

Dolomight please make sure you let us know when the funeral will be.

Ol
Simon Panton 13 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight: That is sad news. I also knew him from those early 90s DR days. I'll never forget his larger than life presence - a real character.
 Paul Clarke 14 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight:

Really sad news. Duncan was one of the real characters of the British climbing scene and will be missed.
He was seen to solo Wall of Horrors three times one evening and, when asked why three times, his reply was no surprise to those that knew him: "I wasn't tired the first two times"

Anyone know where and when the funeral will be?

Paul
D Savage 14 Sep 2007
A very sad end to a talented and bright bloke.

I climbed with Dunc for many years and have lots of fond and funny memories. He was one of climbings real characters, the likes of which are few and far between these days.

Dolomight 14 Sep 2007
In reply to Oliver Wright:
> Dolomight please make sure you let us know when the funeral will be.

Will do. I think it will be in Caverley between Leeds and Bradford but I won't know the date until Monday.

His family have asked that flowers are not sent but a small donation could be made which would be given to a charity - they suggested a mountain rescue team. If anyone has any better suggestions they would be glad to hear it.
 Ian Dunn 14 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight: Very sad news. I remember in the late 70's 1978 I think, we were at Gogarth and had just seen the film of Henry Barber soloing The Strand and Dream of White Horses. Duncan and I both tried The Strand and though it should be easy if someone could onsight solo it. We both had to use a rest on lead! I was gutted but Duncan just went over to Wen Zawn and soloed Dream. He even threw a rock in the sea at the top like Henry did in the movie. He was a great guy lots of fun, always laughing. A sad loss for the climbing world.
 Graham Desroy 14 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight: Sad news indeed. Duncan was never one to shy away from a good bit of controversy and banter. An undeniably talented and bold climber. The climbing world will be a poorer place without him.
 JamieAyres 14 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight:

It was the mid 80's and I was up at the Cromlech, not for the first time, but the first time with any serious intentions - the Corner, the Gates, etc.

It seemed that half of the YMC were there. Everyone was gravitating towards this larger than life character who was explaining that "E5's nowt when you've bin on hard aid routes all winter - they're much scarier"

Then someone asked "What you gettin' on then Duncan?". He didn't reply but his belayer said with a frown "he's goin on Lord..."

..and he did, and got over half way up it before taking what I considered at the time to be 'a monster' - on to a rock 1.

Needless to say he kept all present amused all day with his dry wit and comments. It was one of those days when everyone at the crag is laughing or smiling all the way up their routes and all because of one bloke and the one-liners he kept coming out with.

After finishing the corner we came down the abseil and on the way down I asked Duncan if he wanted me to retrieve his rock 1. "Aye, lad, cheers" It was well stuck but came out eventually and he thanked me then asked why we weren't all up at Cloggy getting on Great Wall as it was dry for the first time in years! This guy is something else I thought - he doesn't seem to pay any attention to grades at all.

I later learnt that it was Duncan Drake and was shown a piece of advice in one of the Yorkshire guidebooks which basically said "do not ever attempt the 2nd ascent of a new Duncan Drake aid route - unless you wish to die".

Well, rambling a bit, but I remember a fantastic day on the cromlech in scorching sunshine doing classic routes and Duncan made the whole thing in to a special memory with his humour and bonhomie. Had never seen him before or since.

Quite a man. Such a pity.

jamie
Fraser Hardie 14 Sep 2007
Really sad news. I fondly remember being physically dragged up more than one route by Duncan. A great bloke.
lux ferro 15 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight: Sorry to hear about Duncan. I used to climbed with Dunc a few years back now, I have good memories of been dragged up scary, chossy routes on Gogarth totaly crapping myself and having to sing a Talking Heads song at the top of my voice to get a tight rope, which he thought was piss funny. I hav'nt seen Duncan for a long time unfortunatly and the thought that he is'nt around anymore will be a big loss to everyone that knew him. I,m glad that I had the chance to know him and will always remember the good times we had out on the crags and in the pubs afterwards.
Christine Matthews 16 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight: Duncan's sister here. Thank you all so much for your messages. Its very comforting to know that Duncan is still so very highly thought of and that his characteristics still shine through (how could they not). His Funeral will be held on THURSDAY 27TH SEPTEMBER AT RAWDON CREMATORIUM (Nr Leeds) AT 1.00pm. All are very welcome.
In reply to Dolomight: Sad news, it was always great to see Duncan out on the crag in the early days & later at Leeds Wall.
So many great memories, will pass on news to people I know who new him.
StewWatson 16 Sep 2007
Very sad news, he was an awesome climber and a great person.
chappers7 16 Sep 2007
A larger than life charater and always fun to go climbing with,he was always able to offer encouragement and recall funny stories and stories of various climbing trips. If you met Duncan you would never forget him! He will be missed by many
chrissod 16 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight:
I spent a few trips away with Duncan, remember one time in Mexico, we dropped the watch on pitch 3 by pitch 13 we knew the exact time as it was getting dark, needless to say we carried on and topped out, the abseils were however dark nightmares much to the amusement of those on the campsite below.
I also watched when he and Gummy did a celebration re-ascent of Death Wish, 21 years after their first ascent, he climbed it without a wobble in sight.
A sad loss to the (climbing) world,he will be missed.
Chris
Alan Brown 17 Sep 2007
I knew Duncan for many years and went on a few climbing trips wth him although I never climbed with him. I remember one occasion watching in fascinated horror while he was taking the piss out of a young Paul Craven for holding onto a peg when trying to solo back climb an E3. Paul, spurred on by the wind-up, had a couple of attempts but eventually used the peg. Think it was on Falcon Crag in Borrowdale.

My son was a keen climber in his teens and early twenties and also suffered mental health problems which eventually led to his death. I remember Duncan being very kind and encouraging to him when I was trying to keep his interest in climbing. Duncan also came along to a climbing event we organised to commemorate my son's death, giving non-climbing friends and relatives a first climbing experience. He was brilliant and made the day with his wisecracking sense of fun.


 BrianT 17 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight: That's such sad news! Poor Duncan. I'd no idea he was in such a bad way.

I first came across him when me and my school friends started visiting the Richard Dunn wall in Bradford, and he was there with his glasses and balding head with his halo of frizzy long hair, climbing like a god. This was at the time 'Rock Athlete' was getting its first airing, and we all thought he was Pete Livesey. We were not worthy (except Craig, who soon achieved worthiness).

A few years later I started climbing with another ex-scholfriend, Wayene pearson, and we sort of got to know Duncan a little. One evening we all went to Almscliff, and Duncan soloed Wall of Horrors, having psyched himself up for it by soloing Black Wall Eliminate. That was his first solo of WOH. It would be about 1984 or 85 I guess. I took a load of photos of Duncan's solo, and always meant to send them to him.

The very last communication I had from him, was maybe two years ago, when he emailed me to ask if I still had the photos and if I could scan them and send them. Jude's scanner was bust at the time so I never got round to it. Only last week I was thinking I must send those pics to Duncan.

If anybody has any intentions of putting together any sort of article or obituary, I'm happy to send copies of the pics. A solo of Wall of Horrors back then was pretty noteworthy, and Duncan, to his credit, kept up a stream of banter almost all the way up it.

I remember him once saying "Botterill's Crack at Ilkley is the hardest f**kin' route I've ever done! Absolutely desperate; so polished you can spend an hour on it. You get to the top and you're f**kin' knackered. Most strenuous ba**ard I've ever done!"
That was paraphrasing, but his words stuck in my head, and I've never done Botterill's Crack, always finding an excuse (too cold, too damp, too shady, too hot, too late...) to avoid it.


RIP Duncan. You were a nutter.
Dolomight 17 Sep 2007
*** DUNCAN'S FUNERAL ***

THURSDAY 27TH SEPTEMBER 1:00pm

RAWDON CREMATORIUM
Leeds Road
Rawdon
Leeds
LS196JP

All invited.
 Veronica 17 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight:

Bugger, why?

I climbed a lot with him, The Scoop, Galactic Hitch Hiker, Eiger North Face, and loads on the grit and in the Dales. we used to get the bus to Malham from Bradford, sleep in the ladies loo in the village (warmer and cleaner then the mens) then go climbing (pegging in the winter) on the cove. I even saw him play cricket in Cornwall (at Madron) he was good at that too. For a few years we'd have tradition of going clubing in Bradford on New years eve and having a curry at sill o'clock on Xmas day morning.

A very sad loss indeed, I will endeavor to make his funeral and see if I can get some slides of him scanned.

Mike Raine
James Perry In Sydney 18 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight:

Very Sad news I worked with Duncan at DR in the early 90's and had some great days out limestone and grit.

As Simon said a real Character and great sense of Humor.

timinoz 18 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight:
So sorry to hear about this.
Although I was never a close friend with Duncan he always had some way of making an impact on me whenever we met. I used to kick his butt on the Leeds and Bradford walls in the early 80's, but on the few times we ever got out onto real rock the tables were turned and he taught me a lot about climbing.
Constant pushing, risk taking, piss taking = very good inspiration.
RIP
Tim.
 Mick Ward 18 Sep 2007
In reply to oetzi:

> an awesome climber and a great person.

Duncan's epitaph. In comparison with some of the other people who've posted here, I barely knew him. But there are old memories of seeing him at Gogarth with amazingly optimistic sports plans. Weather didn't seem to make much difference - neither did the prospect (or the reality!) of monster lobs. Wonderful enthusiasm.

There's a faded snapshot in my mind of some little grit nasty (Cave Wall?) The merciless banter driving us on. Both of us getting unaccountably gripped - and Duncan in fits of laughter at the cosmic craziness of it all.

I'll always remember his gift of laughter, always be grateful for it.

RIP.

Mick



Very sad to hear that about Duncan.
He was a real character,the crag banter was allways good when Duncan was around.
I remember belaying him on one of his hard aid routes at Kilnsey as a youth.
A legend in Yorkshire for sure RIP

John Dunne
 Martin Berzins 18 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight:

Such sad news. Duncan was one of the very best. He combined a huge talent for climbing with both passion and energy. He was one of those rare individuals who could inspire you to do something that you never though that you could do. I climbed with him on Yorkshire limestone and remember those days with warmth and now great sadness. It is very hard to reconcile this news with the amazing person we knew.
 chris gooder 19 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight: It is sad about Duncan and I think
Martin Berzins described him the best.Duncan's enthusiasum
did make you do things you wouldn't normally try.I first saw Duncan on the 5th of April 1980,he climbed over my partner and I whilst soloing Dream at Gogarth, very impressive.I got to know him and climbed a lot with him in the 80's and 90's,The Scoop with Mike Raine,hard aid climb's at Kilnsey with Allan Stephenson,Mike Hodgson and Mark Prestt.Chaotic trips to North Wales,big aid routes
on Parliment House Cave,seconding him on Lord of the Flies
which he descrbed as a "right arm pump" this was a prelude
to four days in Pembroke where we did 18 routes totaling
61 E points.I did five caving trips with him, all of them
either grade 4 or 5.He never did anything by halves,and his enthusiasum was contagious.Over the years we drifted
apart and I think I fell out of favour for whatever reason.
I used to see him at Leeds Wall and say hello but I hadn't
seen him around for a long time.Duncan had a big influence
on my climbing and he's left me with memories of some
great experiences.
 BrianT 20 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight:
For those who might be interested, I've scanned and posted my pics of Duncan soloing Black Wall Eliminate and Wall of Horrors. Check out my photo gallery.

I've checked the date and it was July 22nd 1982.

The person seen sitting atop the crag was a guy called Wayne Pearson, who now lives in Arizona. As far as I know, we were the only three people on the crag on the day.

Duncan chose BWE, at HVS5a, as his warm-up. It now gets E25c. Wall of Horrors was graded XS5c and had an 'aura' about it which scared a lot of people, but he was determined and psyched, despite the gloom of the day. It's now E36a.

I remember he did the first crux then managed a decent rest by stretching out horizontally along the break, before despatching the upper hard moves. He made it look straightforward, even though it was his first solo of the route (can't remember if he'd done it roped before or not).

The picture quality isn't brilliant. I might be able to post better quality versions of them later if Jude can photoshop them for me.

Sorry you never saw these, Duncan.
 lummox 21 Sep 2007
In reply to BrianT: cool pictures Brian- I now realise who Duncan was- he knew some of the older lads I climb with. He sounded a character...
 BrianT 21 Sep 2007
In reply to lummox: He was definitely a character. I didn't know him that well - he was more a casual acquaintance. I got to know him through Wayne, who climbed with him a fair bit around that time. He was a funny bloke, a great taker of the piss, especially if one was having an epic or climbing craply. I once had a massive failure to lead Peapod at Curbar, which provoked no end of barbed comments on my lack of ability. Having failed and become dejected however, I had my spirits lifted by a few words of encouragement, before seconding Duncan up Avalanche Wall, which he reckoned would cheer me up a bit.
 Mick Ward 21 Sep 2007
In reply to BrianT:

Once had to use a point of aid and a tight rope to second Peapod... an hour after pissing up Our Father. Duncan would've worked wonders with such comic material.

Mick
 BrianT 21 Sep 2007
In reply to Mick Ward: Yeah. I once had an inexplicable epic leading Crack of Doom, which was well within my abilities. After a crisis of confidence in committing to the move right, and retreat to the corner, Duncan disappeared from the base of the crag, only to reappear on the big ledge at the end of the traverse, where he mercilessly mocked me for being a 'f***ing puff', cackling away at my elvis leg as I finally made the move and found it easy enough.
Having the piss taken on a straight VS by a bloke who'd just soloed Wall of Horrors was a bit embarrassing, but he had a way of getting you to see the funny side, so you didn't get offended and ended up laughing with him, at your own crapness.
Mark Leach 21 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight: A very sad loss to the climbing world and the world at large. I always enjoyed meeting and chatting with Duncan at the crags. He kept me laughing everytime I met him. He always had mine and everyone's respect and always will. A very gifted climber.

RIP Duncan

Mark Leach
 gingerkate 28 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight:

I've only just heard.

I'm so very sorry. I knew I'd not seen him for a long while, but that happens so much ... I never got beyond wondering vaguely what he was up to.

Duncan was one of the people who made Leeds wall such a friendly place when I first started climbing there daytimes. I'd be doing beginner bouldering, him and Dave would be on the main wall, on the gnarly stuff. He was so strong! He was awesome. And so down to earth. He said a lot of stuff that made me smile.



Christine Matthews 28 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight:

We (Susan & Christine - Duncan's big sisters) would just like to say a very BIG THANK YOU to all those people who were able to attend Duncan's Funeral yesterday. All of you made it extra special, the words, the tales, the experiences made it the celebration of Duncan's life that we had hoped to achieve. We hope that as well as paying your final respects to Duncan the old friends, acquaintances you chatted with added to your memories of the day. A very BIG THANK YOU for all the donations for the Kendal Mountain Rescue (£330+).

Mike Stacey 29 Sep 2007
In reply to Dolomight:

Only just read this and so sad we all new from his time down at Leeds Wall, a nice bloke who will be missed.

Mike
Christine Matthews 24 Oct 2007
In reply to Dolomight:

Please see attached email I received yesterday. It is from Chris Ellison
I have not seen Duncan for about 20 years. Last night Kate

& I were watching the Joe Simpson film & I said I knew a

bloke who was on the Eiger. I did a search on Duncan's

name just to see what he was up to and was shocked to see

the news.



In 1978/79 I was 16 and just started getting into caving.

I used to go to Richard Dunn to the climbing wall to mess

about and saw Duncan there. To me, a young lad, he was

both a man to look up to but also a very kind bloke with

all the time in the world to talk to me. He then

recognised me as he was the conductor on the Tong Street

bus at Bradford. His mass of curly, fair hair sticking out

from under his Bradford Council peaked cap and his eyes

behind his gold rimmed 'Lennon' glasses shining brightly.

As I was going to school on a Monday morning I would tell

him what adventures I had been up to and he would tell me

his. We talked so much, he never collected any fares!

About that time I bunked off school and we went in his Mini

van to climb at Malham by the Tarn. I was no climber, he

was fantastic, but again all the time in the world as he

dragged me up, me in my Willans harness and EBs fro Alan

Austins. I still remember the tape of George Harrison

playing 'give me love, give me peace on Earth'. Some times

he would see us at the Metropole pub on a Thursday night

and go for a curry.



I went my caving way and he his climbing, but I'd still see

him around the pubs in Bradford, normally the rougher more

characterful pubs and in the curry houses. One time I

remember him showing me his photos of the Eiger, which was

of course a place I'd known about, but just confirmed to me

that he was a class above most other climbers.



Now I'm 44, live in the Dales and still ride my mountain

bike past the tarn and that crag I have always thought of

Duncan and wondering what he is up to. Whenever I hear

that George Harrison song I think back to that time with

the van parked under the crag, us sat there in the sunshine.



I am very saddened now, but know that things were made much

better by Duncan being around at that time, my life was

shaped by those formative times.



Duncan, I know that if we meet at another place, it will be

all the better for you being there.



Chris Ellison


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